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G-spotter

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Everything posted by G-spotter

  1. I went there in 98 or so? It started raining when we got to the crags and it rained until we got back to the cars. Hmmmm.
  2. The Marble Range is mostly snow-free but there are still patches for drinking water.
  3. Hey Mr. 4ord the entire print run of the AAJ is now online. There's a lot of good Himalayan reading in there. Also the entire run of Lindsay Griffin's "Mountain Info" is now online, you have to register (free) to browse it though - climbmagazine.co.uk I think.
  4. The snow pack no doubt was solid, but the whole solid pack, when it rests on smoothly tilted bedrock and is lubricated by running water, can move on that interface.
  5. Jens, It is not the biners as much as it is you developed bad biner management habits while belaying the old (wrong) way. Sounds more like you need to work on your biner management.
  6. It was on CKNW and Global TV, and then it turned out to be a friend of a friend and occasional cc.com poster. Good news is he is safe and out of the hospital on crutches now.
  7. Did you know a climber was evacuated off the north face of Harvey with a broken leg a week or two ago after getting hit when some of the remaining patchy snow, avalanched on him? This is not a good time of year to be up there. Save this one for the winter. Now on to your question. If you don't have the money to spare, buy a set of Aztars or Axars or something like that and use the one with the adze as a mountaineering axe instead of buying a separate mountaineering axe. Otherwise, if you have the coin, buy a set of something nice for ice (like quarks) and buy a separate mountaineering axe like the Grivel Airtech or BD Raven.
  8. Sonnie Trotter made the second ascent of Rhapsody (E11 7a, 14b/c R) at Dumbarton Rock in scotland yesterday after a month of effort this year and a couple weeks last year. Cool reading: http://www.sonnietrotter.com/roadlife.php
  9. Hit that funky Office bubble at top left and choose the tiny little "Word Options" tab at the bottom right of that window. Now play around with AutoCorrect settings until it stops doing that. Now hunt through the Menus until you find the "Clippy" option and turn it on. The next time you can't figure out what to do, just ask Clippy!
  10. G-spotter

    Two ropes?

    CBS - given how overhanging it is the falls would probably clean through the swing part, it's hitting the rock that would hurt. They use double ropes a lot more in the UK. When the natural pro is distributed in cracks, flakes, pockets etc. semi-randomly around the face instead of in a nice straight line along a single crack in the usual style of North Amrican trad cragging, using doubles can really help to manage rope drag and protect traversing pitches.
  11. There's only one brand of nuts that I have doubles of.
  12. Apparently the problem you experienced was due to your skinny rope having been "flake magnetized". After having this problem with several of my own ropes over the years I have come up with a 100% organic rope degaussing solution which I am selling for $50 a bottle. One bottle contains approximately 10 applications. Send PM with your address, credit card # and expiration date. Your ropes will thank you!
  13. G-spotter

    Two ropes?

    If the leader is clipping pro at their waist, the belayer will not notice much different. If the leader is clipping pro overhead, then climbing past it, the belayer will notice that one rope in their belay device is tight and the other is slack, unless they manage the rope by feeding each rope through the device individually rather than both together. If you belay a lot on double ropes, you figure out how to do this (taking in/giving slack on two individual ropes) safely relatively quickly.
  14. It wouldn't be the first time you were a flop at petting.
  15. They join together in a big loop but the way A.S. says to go is in better condition as I recall it.
  16. G-spotter

    Cars

    Hey will, How can you call the Element fugly when you compare it to a REALLY fugly van like the Pontiac Aztek (Asstek)?
  17. Ummmm wood = biofuel = theoretically carbon-neutral? Unless you're burning old-growth logs cleared from lots that are being replaced with houses and pavement on that bonfire?
  18. Everybody should do the Texplorer version where you get so off route on the approach you climb a 17 pitch new route on a different part of the mountain and don't realize you are offroute until pitch 10
  19. G-spotter

    boom

    PshLqgEaZu4
  20. G-spotter

    boom

    It said that:
  21. omg! every time you stay in the AAC's pay-to-camp ground, God kills a fat housecat!
  22. G-spotter

    boom

    meanwhile FqGqGwRaILg
  23. G-spotter

    boom

    b2 bomber crashes on takeoff from Guam. http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=f6d_1212714828
  24. It's an attempt to circumvent Bayesian spam filters. A large amount of random text is needed so that the filter does not flag it as spam.
  25. I'm so low tech. I took a picture of a lighter.
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