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G-spotter

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Everything posted by G-spotter

  1. That's because the eye can break. The design was a very poor one for strength and that's why SMC had to stop making them...
  2. G-spotter

    Buckethead

    The latest album is pretty cool. http://www.myspace.com/bucketheadnfriends
  3. G-spotter

    Facebook

  4. Balfour is about half an hour south of Rampart Cr, on the other (south) side of Saskatchewan Crossing.
  5. You should hit up Manning. Heimlich Valley is the worst skiing in the valley!
  6. IF YOU USE ALL CAPS IT MAKES IT LOOK EVEN BIGGER!!!!!!!!!1 dumbass
  7. http://ca.news.yahoo.com/s/afp/081227/oddities/lifestyle_romania_gastronomy_record_offbeat
  8. Lillooet is very dry this year.
  9. G-spotter

    Buckethead

    If all you know is the 'Chinese Democracy' Buckethead you should check out his work with PRAXIS!
  10. Mystey solved, it was Jesse and Graham and they climbed the left-hand chimney to bypass the first 2 pitches of Tailwind that were not in... the chimney sounds like it was pretty hard, maybe 4+?
  11. G-spotter

    Buckethead

    Buckethead is an anagram of Death Cube K
  12. Was it you that yelled at us and said you'd tried to get permission to climb Seabird in the morning?
  13. Trip: Near Hope - FA Tradewinds 210m WI3 Date: 12/26/2008 Trip Report: This nice ice line has formed up right of Tailwind, in an area that is often dry or the ice is thin... it may be the same one that David and Nick Jones climbed a couple pitches of on an attempt in 1989 (see WCI guide p.94) In between Tailwind and Tradewinds is a very obvious unclimbed line in a fresh rockfall scar/corner that appears to consist of several pitches of mixed slabs in a corner to a vertical pillar with a huge yellow ice roof at the top that looks like a cobra's hood. Anyways Jesse, Graham, Robert and I scoped this line on the 21st but it is exposed to the down-valley winds and we didn't feel like climbing in 50km/h outflows with gusts to 80... Winds persisted through the 23rd. Shaun and I were ready for an attempt on the 24th but the record snowfall halted that plan. After loading our bodies with a few pounds of turkey and micemeat pie we were back at the climb today with no winds and only light snow. Perfect conditions near -4C all day long. We parked as for Tailwind off Hwy 7 and hiked through forest, prickle bushes and fresh rockfall debris to the base in about an hour. We both simul-soloed the first pitch, towing the ropes up - 50m WI2. The next pitch had a narrow, awkward ramp and then great fat ice and chimneying moves, with a bit of rock pro. I note parenthetically it's way faster to place a bomber nut off to the side of a climb than it is to fuck around drilling a shallow screw and trying to avoid rocking the teeth. Belay was a weird chimney stance, 55m WI2+ Shaun led what turned out to be the crux, a wall with several short pillar steps and several ledges. Lots of opportunity for variation, WI3 to 3+ lines depending on if the pillar you chose was 3m or 8m long. Above this, another long chimney/ramp, to a belay on a giant boulder frozen in the ice (hopefully solidly). 55m WI3. I led the final pitch which was a long ramp with lots (by this time) of snow over low-angle and wet ice, and a couple of steeper bulges, finishing to trees. 61m WI2 (Shaun had to take the belay down and climb up a meter or two for me to make the trees). We rapped the route rather than spend a few hours walking off. Three 55-60m raps trending to climbers left (off tree, off the boulder, and off another tree well left of the ice) got us down to a tree ramp we could downclimb 30-40m to the base of the route. Total round trip time was about 6 hrs. Mike and Marc were climbing Tailwind at the same time, they were just approaching the final crux pitch as we got back to the car. Looks like the bottom of that route was thin and spicy! No photos cause in the post-turkey daze both Shaun and I forgot our cameras! Gear Notes: 10 screws plus a set of nuts. Approach Notes: Highway 7 from Agassiz east 20km then park just past Rockface Trailer Park; hike in: see TR for hiking rt. details.
  14. G-spotter

    Heart

    If I was named Meatloaf I'd be extra cautious around Ann. Looks like she eats two or three as an appetizer!
  15. G-spotter

    this s ucks...

    were you skiing?
  16. All that terrain and no jibbin?
  17. G-spotter

    Crosswinds

    I've seen ducks land like that but never planes!
  18. There is this thing called Google.... it answers questions such as yours!
  19. doesn't Flav have like 7 kids each with a different mother?
  20. Man to man I don't know if they can From what I know The parts don't fit (Ahh shit)
  21. Looks pretty lean this year. JLTR on the other hand has a fat pillar visible up the gully.
  22. Trip: Hope - FA Blue Moose (90m WI3+) Date: 12/22/2008 Trip Report: Tyler Linn and I climbed a new route near Hope today. The climb forms on the lower slopes of Hope Mountain about 200m west of the Thacker Creek drainage and I have been eying it for several years. A steep curtain at the base that doesn't always form leads to rolling ramps. You can only see it briefly from the highway but from the east side of Hope near the Coquihalla Bridge on Kawkawa Lake Road it is very obvious. It looked like the curtain had touched down so Tyler and I headed up after a bit of a gong show involving me forgetting my tools in Chilliwack and driving back to grab them. You can't park at the base on the highway so we ended up parking at the Hope crematorium and walking along the highway to the route. A better spot would have been to park near the gas pipeline office. You turn off the highway right at a sign saying "Next Services 100 km" and bushwack up to the climb in about 15 or so minutes. Route line from the highway. Route from the base. The direct pillar was touching down but was sadly spitting wet and horribly chandeliered and I didn't fancy leading it. Neither did Tyler. However I found a dry line along the very left margin, steep with good rests for 20m and then a narrow chimney/ramp line with some tricky and delicate footwork on a narrow ice vein combined with moss drytooling. I belayed after 30m in a clump of bushes and dealt with a loose crampon. Tyler led through on the next pitch which was a long rambly ramp, snowy but with a steep 15m high WI3 in the middle. We walked off to the east (towards Thacker Creek - skiier's right of the climb) down through steep forest, no rappels necessary. Ass shot of me reaching the ramp. The climb was pretty good, the direct column will also be a fine line with short approach when it comes in. Most everything else is in around Hope and the Fraser Valley in general and should last till Friday. Gear Notes: Eight screws or so, a few 10 and 13cms are useful. Approach Notes: See trip report.
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