G-spotter

No one with an IQ over 60 has bought a Big-Three auto in years anyways because THEY ARE SHIT.

It's snowing here right now. FRESHIEZ

see attachment. This includes all reported new routes done up to April 2008 in the area covered by Don Serl's guide as well as a couple of new areas in the Okanagan (older Okanagan ice climbs are listed in the 1985 CAJ). There are also a few amendations, errata and missed routes listed. The grand total is something like 70 new or not previously reported routes. Sounds like cold will arrive tomorrow, & there should be climbable routes by midweek. Happy climbing! 3991.doc

TAKE THIS JOB AND SHOVE IT I AINT WORKIN HERE NO MORE

It was reported either here or on Adrian's site so "many years ago" must be within the last 7-8 years...

I wonder whose balls she is hanging on that tree.

Orthodox Mtn - p. 240 - two multipitch 5.6 routes (both II 5.6) done by kris Wild and partners are not included Macabre Tower (p. 246) - SE Pillar (III 5.11) done by Tyler Linn and partners in summer 2007 is not included. Matriarch Mountain - p. 246-247 - SW Face Direct (II 5.8+) by Brayshaw & Fahlman 04 is not listed. Cheam Peak (p. 148-150). West Face Kay-Zozikyan (p. 148) and NW Face Kay-Zozikyan (p. 150) are same route. Slesse Mountain - p. 177 - Northeast Buttress is 3,000 feet high, not 3,000 meters as stated in text p. 184 - Mount "Parke" is actually Mount Parkes, named after Fred Parkes (member of Slesse FA team). Mountain is not "an intermediate summit just north of Crossover" but rather the main summit between Slesse and Crossover (mislabelled 'Stumpy Hill' in Alpine Select). Bamboozled Buttress (p.185) should be listed as a route on Parkes rather than on Crossover. Crossover Peak (p. 184-185) - SE Buttress of E peak (II low-5th) not listed. Mt Hatfield (p. 250) - North ridge route not listed (III low 5th class)

The info presented in the CAG for these routes is exactly what Fred got from Craig - I know cause Craig emailed it to me and I forwarded it to Fred. The Voodoo Child name was not used at that time.

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1093194/Frankie-feline-exposed-cat-burglar-stealing-toys-neighbours-homes.html

"Hi - you've reached Bettie Page's voicemail. Sorry I can't answer the phone right now - I'm all tied up!"

Blake - look closer. You will see that in fact, two of the three McGee routes on Les Cornes are listed. The only one that is not is Gatekeeper. Also Fred is using the old directions from Craig so he makes it sound like SCE is right of Lumberjacks when in fact it is left.

cough cough... Garry B climbed ice at Marble Canyon on HALLOWEEN a few years ago

Science is a vaccination against the god-meme which sometimes works.

CTAC: The 1957 "Coleman Headwall" line is the one on the right side of the Coleman Headwall, either with ramp variation or the line you took. The 1958 "Coleman Headwall Direct" by McDonald & Mather climbs well to the left, near the North Ridge, up to and through a giant serac near the apex of the face. On the FA this had a narrow passage through it which has fallen off in the intervening 50 years. Hope that clears things up.

So by "Direct" do you mean the MacDonald/Mather line through what I had understood is now an overhanging serac?

Action suit principle. Wear softshell over baselayer. Nothing else underneath. If necessary, layer OVER softshell.

Jesse and I were at Marble after you left and I think more ice fell off the stuff on the left after you left because it did not seem anywhere as fat as you make it sound. In fact I have never seen so little ice there at this time of year.

You aren't supposed to mixed climb at Johnston Canyon because of some rare moss on the rock behind the pillrs.

Trip: Cache Cr. Area - OJ & Marble Condish Date: 12/6/2008 Trip Report: Jesse and I drove up to check out ice conditions yesterday. Oregon Jack had a bunch of crud and mushrooms with a spewing hole just above the halfway cave, on the right. We tried to climb a line up the left side to the cave where it was mostly dry but the spewage from the hole kept shifting and when it started chucking down on us, Jesse was about 20' up, we decided to bail... Ice was mostly air/snow and worthless for screws. Drove over to check out Marble Canyon. Looked more like October than early Dec. In fact I can't recall ever seeing it this thin before. Also it was +2C out at 2PM. Lots of running water. Dihedral was fattest line, but only about 1/2 way to touching down. deeping wall was a cm or two thick for much of its length. also the lake is minimally frozen over and has a big broken hole where it appears an over excited ice fisherman may have fallen in. In short there was nothing climbable and there probably won't be as long as these condiions continue! Gear Notes: Wishful thinking. Approach Notes: Lots of driving.

Don't forget your bolt kit for the bolt ladder from Guy and John's highpoint

Looks nice! Technically, though, you're gonna have to wait until Dec 21st before you get your first "winter" summit.

That's pretty cool. Maybe there will be a lineup at the base tomorrow.

It isn't in there at all, which is why I asked. I wanna draw it in in pen.

Did someone say Immortal?

So when you look at the mountan from a distance this is just right (south) of the NW Rib route?