G-spotter

Blake - look closer. You will see that in fact, two of the three McGee routes on Les Cornes are listed. The only one that is not is Gatekeeper. Also Fred is using the old directions from Craig so he makes it sound like SCE is right of Lumberjacks when in fact it is left.

cough cough... Garry B climbed ice at Marble Canyon on HALLOWEEN a few years ago

Science is a vaccination against the god-meme which sometimes works.

CTAC: The 1957 "Coleman Headwall" line is the one on the right side of the Coleman Headwall, either with ramp variation or the line you took. The 1958 "Coleman Headwall Direct" by McDonald & Mather climbs well to the left, near the North Ridge, up to and through a giant serac near the apex of the face. On the FA this had a narrow passage through it which has fallen off in the intervening 50 years. Hope that clears things up.

So by "Direct" do you mean the MacDonald/Mather line through what I had understood is now an overhanging serac?

Action suit principle. Wear softshell over baselayer. Nothing else underneath. If necessary, layer OVER softshell.

Jesse and I were at Marble after you left and I think more ice fell off the stuff on the left after you left because it did not seem anywhere as fat as you make it sound. In fact I have never seen so little ice there at this time of year.

You aren't supposed to mixed climb at Johnston Canyon because of some rare moss on the rock behind the pillrs.

Trip: Cache Cr. Area - OJ & Marble Condish Date: 12/6/2008 Trip Report: Jesse and I drove up to check out ice conditions yesterday. Oregon Jack had a bunch of crud and mushrooms with a spewing hole just above the halfway cave, on the right. We tried to climb a line up the left side to the cave where it was mostly dry but the spewage from the hole kept shifting and when it started chucking down on us, Jesse was about 20' up, we decided to bail... Ice was mostly air/snow and worthless for screws. Drove over to check out Marble Canyon. Looked more like October than early Dec. In fact I can't recall ever seeing it this thin before. Also it was +2C out at 2PM. Lots of running water. Dihedral was fattest line, but only about 1/2 way to touching down. deeping wall was a cm or two thick for much of its length. also the lake is minimally frozen over and has a big broken hole where it appears an over excited ice fisherman may have fallen in. In short there was nothing climbable and there probably won't be as long as these condiions continue! Gear Notes: Wishful thinking. Approach Notes: Lots of driving.

Don't forget your bolt kit for the bolt ladder from Guy and John's highpoint

Looks nice! Technically, though, you're gonna have to wait until Dec 21st before you get your first "winter" summit.

That's pretty cool. Maybe there will be a lineup at the base tomorrow.

It isn't in there at all, which is why I asked. I wanna draw it in in pen.

Did someone say Immortal?

So when you look at the mountan from a distance this is just right (south) of the NW Rib route?

EPIC PWN

It's got a whole bunch of WTF? typos (eg. jmace gets renamed Jesse Nason in one place, WI3 rating gets changed to W-13) and a couple missing routes but I just speed-read it and it looks pretty good

"catturdeat" was a good one

Ya, that always gives me gas.

Can you tell me where you are going to be parked, and how much valuable stuff you plan on leaving in your car?

"Props to G-Spotter for best new user name" - Will Strickland c. 2001

I'll drive up and look if you pay for my gas money. PM me with your credit card # and expiration date.

and the ravens are worse!

Canadians are scary, violent, evil people. They will break into your car, and then draw a picure of you fucking a sheep on the unbroken window. American climbers should stay home and climb local.

Not my story but I will tell it anyways. Back in the university outdoor club days (1990s) some friends were going to Skaha on a big VOC trip and got assigned to carpool with two guys they didn't know. I will call the two guys Driver Guy and Headphones Guy. So they all meet up at UBC and get in the car and start heading for Skaha (about 5 hrs). On the way Headphones Guy, as soon as the car starts up, puts on his walkman's headphones and starts nodding his head and rocking out to something or other. Meanwhile the car is running low on gas and around Hope they stop for fill up. My friend C, figuring they are going to split gas, is like 'Hey I'll get this tank'. Driver Guy is all "NOOO! NOOOO! DON'T!" Then he proceeds to pull out this spreadsheet showing his costs per kilometer for insurance, gas, maintenance etc. (including oil, wear on tires, transmission etc.) and tells him they will be paying him each $50 round trip. This was back when gas was like 49.9 cents/liter and a trip for four to Skaha and back should have cost about $50 total & been split four ways. Hee hee. So anyways they continue on into the night, arguing about this and other stuff, and somewhere as they are nearing Penticton my other friend J wonders why she has never seen Headphones Guy switch tapes in like 4 and a half hours of driving time. Is he just listeing to the same mix tape over and over? So she strikes up a conversation, yelling loudly so he can hear her over his music - and it is at this time that J, C and Driver Guy discover that for the last 4.5 hours, Headphones Guy has been sitting in the car with headphones on but the walkman was never turned on. He's been sitting there pretending to listen to music so that he can eavesdrop on their conversations passively without having to talk himself!