G-spotter

EPIC PWN

It's got a whole bunch of WTF? typos (eg. jmace gets renamed Jesse Nason in one place, WI3 rating gets changed to W-13) and a couple missing routes but I just speed-read it and it looks pretty good

"catturdeat" was a good one

Ya, that always gives me gas.

Can you tell me where you are going to be parked, and how much valuable stuff you plan on leaving in your car?

"Props to G-Spotter for best new user name" - Will Strickland c. 2001

I'll drive up and look if you pay for my gas money. PM me with your credit card # and expiration date.

and the ravens are worse!

Canadians are scary, violent, evil people. They will break into your car, and then draw a picure of you fucking a sheep on the unbroken window. American climbers should stay home and climb local.

Not my story but I will tell it anyways. Back in the university outdoor club days (1990s) some friends were going to Skaha on a big VOC trip and got assigned to carpool with two guys they didn't know. I will call the two guys Driver Guy and Headphones Guy. So they all meet up at UBC and get in the car and start heading for Skaha (about 5 hrs). On the way Headphones Guy, as soon as the car starts up, puts on his walkman's headphones and starts nodding his head and rocking out to something or other. Meanwhile the car is running low on gas and around Hope they stop for fill up. My friend C, figuring they are going to split gas, is like 'Hey I'll get this tank'. Driver Guy is all "NOOO! NOOOO! DON'T!" Then he proceeds to pull out this spreadsheet showing his costs per kilometer for insurance, gas, maintenance etc. (including oil, wear on tires, transmission etc.) and tells him they will be paying him each $50 round trip. This was back when gas was like 49.9 cents/liter and a trip for four to Skaha and back should have cost about $50 total & been split four ways. Hee hee. So anyways they continue on into the night, arguing about this and other stuff, and somewhere as they are nearing Penticton my other friend J wonders why she has never seen Headphones Guy switch tapes in like 4 and a half hours of driving time. Is he just listeing to the same mix tape over and over? So she strikes up a conversation, yelling loudly so he can hear her over his music - and it is at this time that J, C and Driver Guy discover that for the last 4.5 hours, Headphones Guy has been sitting in the car with headphones on but the walkman was never turned on. He's been sitting there pretending to listen to music so that he can eavesdrop on their conversations passively without having to talk himself!

10-4 good buddy

One nice thing you can do with M10s and Cyborgs etc. is use an offset dual point setup. I have the inside point, under my big toe, long and the outside point, under my 4th toe, short. For rock moves I can get a single point on, mono-style, on small pockets and edges. For crappy ice I still get two points, especially with the feet turned in slighty pigeon-toed for narrow icicles. I liked a single mono for versatility but found it wasn't stable enough most of he time, and hence more tiring than dual points. Offset duals for me have none of the drawbacks of duals OR of monos. Best of both worlds. Interestingly enough for real mixed, especially alpine, with lots of crampons on bare rock going on I took Dr. Slawinskis advice and started using a pair of Sabretooths. You get way more steel on the rock this way (especially with the flat frontpoints) and your feet stick much more. Sabretooths on a bare granite or limestone slab are like sticky rubber rock shoe as compared to a skittery mono point feeling more like a running shoe.

Shit, if you really want to be French just call in the helicopter from the summit.

Fuck this +1 shit I want -1 Or colder.

You can easily match on tools etc. while using clipper leashes - just unclip them when needed. Unlike going leashless, though, you can still clip back in for a rest if you get a good stick.

And don't forget the deforestation for American corn and hemp too.

Is it as much as a bitch to harvest as say.....oil? Yes. Energy return on energy invested for oil is currently around 40:1 while for hemp oil it is less than 5:1. (and note: 1.3:1 for corn ethanol and around 20:1 for tropical sugarcane ethanol)

Hemp is a bitch to harvest. The market for it is small and fickle. When Canada relegalized hemp cul;tivation a lot of farmers tried it out, many of them lost money on it or got out of the business pretty quickly because of the hassles involved. Hops are a completely legal crop and suffer from many of the same issues. Did you know there is currently a global hop shortage?

nope...

Snopes says fake.

Ya, you can clip in with your PAS or daisy to the powerpoint and have the belay right on the powerpoint and that's all the extension you need... assuming the ledge or hanging belay permits.

When we were slaughtering and plucking turkeys for Canadian Thanksgiving a month or so ago our freerange chickens were running around scavenging the scraps that fell on the ground. Those chickens are fucking cannibals, man. But once they stop laying its their turn! Chicken Burger and the Devil

The greater the distance between the autoblock and the belayer, the easier it is to use, usually. In some cases, clipping the belay device into the shelf and hanging yourself off the powerpoint can give you six extra inches with every pull of the rope thru the device which results in a less tiring belay. Especially in those cases where you are hauling an icy rope with lots of rope drag through the anchor with frozen gloves and it takes all you've got just to pull the rope up. Just sayin'

Ya I nearly fell off the Apron but caught a tree on the way down. No injuries but I took a couple of months off from rock climbing to think about stuff during which time I mostly hiked and scrambled. But I decided I love climbing so I started doing it again. I have climbed harder things since so I don't believe I toned it down afterwards overall. My fall happened because I took some easy scrambling-off-the-top-of-the-climb moves for granted in wet conditions with sandals on. I try to be more aware of situations like this now. Probably there's plenty of other situations I miss though.

And now it is supposed to be printed and in the Mtneers Books warehouse! we'll see how many errors and omissions this edition has....