G-spotter

It isn't fat around Hope yet but a lot of stuff is on the way. I went out for a looksee and it gets thicker and bluer the further east you go. The Diviner, Medusa, and the Honeymoon might all be climbable, they looked good from the road anyways. Medusa's probably the best of the lot. Honeymoon doesn't have much avvy hazard yet as the snowpack is just too low. Mousetrap has a bunch of water-spewing holes. Jarvis Bluffs are mostly touching down but not climbable yet. I didn't go up to Sumallo but it has the same elevation and aspect as Medusa so I have good hopes for there being climbable ice there this week. I didn't go up the 1 to look at the Hells Gate area. All in all things are coming in surprisingly fast.

Ninja Ices are the best gloves I've ever used for ice. Warmest, dryest. Best grip. Climb notably better than my $149 Patagonia Stretch element gloves (that I bought on clearance for $80)

Ninja Ice $12 CDN

Took a looksee today around the valley, discontinuous sheets of thin dribbles on stuff like White Wedding. Probably at least 3 more days to reach climbable conditions. South facing stuff like Seabird Falls is melting off in the day

All plans vitually put into effect by the Alpine Guides Associations of every country mentioned. With the exception of some commercial backcountry chalets, eg. Reudi Beglinger's operation in the Selkirks, that are operated by companies employing alpine guides, this is not true for Canada. It is certainly not true for the majority of alpine huts in either BC or Alberta.

http://mountainproject.com/v/pacific_northwest/infinite_bliss__next_week/106965527

Built and paid for by mountain clubs.

So, the first arctic outbreak of the season. Hope forecast: http://www.weatheroffice.gc.ca/city/pages/bc-36_metric_e.html Lillooet forecast: http://www.weatheroffice.gc.ca/city/pages/bc-28_metric_e.html Pemberton forecast: http://www.weatheroffice.gc.ca/city/pages/bc-16_metric_e.html The current longrange forecast isn't much use but shows a warm front arriving around Wednesday. From previous experience, something like 5 days is required to form up climbable ice in the Fraser Valley, and more like 7 days in drier Lillooet. snow can delay ice formup when temperatures remain below freezing, but speed it up when there are melt/freeze cycles. We got about 2" of snow overnight in Chilliwack, and Hope got more. My prognostications: nothing much is going to come in in Hope unless it stays cold longer than forecast. Tuesday and Wednesday are the most likely days. High elevation stuff like Sumallo Bluffs are likely fully white with snow. The same applies to Squamish although there's major outflow forecast for Howe Sound today so it may form up faster there. Mixed adventures are likely possible on crags around Whistler and Pemberton by this weekend, including Green River Bastion and Mystery Roach areas. High elevation ice on the Duffy like Isodoth Gully is probably buried under the new snow. I wouldn't expect Lillooet area to be much in yet until next weekend (Nov 27th). If anything is good to go it will be moderately high elevation north facing ice like Night N Gale. From experience Oregon Jack will probably have a hollow and fragile ice shell with chunks falling off this weekend, and be good to go by late next weekend if the cold stays. Marble will likely be unleadable. Give the ice time to grow. Marbe Canyon ice jonesers might find the best sport on the mixed routes in the Jolly Rancher/Waite For Spring area. All in all, it's probably better to plan on skiing than ice climbing this weekend. Get the tools ready for local ice by late next week in areas where the cold stays (Whistler, Pemberton, Lillooet)

Republican says climate change deniers are dumbfucks: http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/2010/nov/19/republican-climate-change-bob-inglis

Your mom likes bacon wrapped pork.

Roses are red Violets are not You think this will rhyme But it ain't gonna.

It's all poetry man. They should cut the length of facebook post or tweet to 17 syllables.

irish coffee? red bull and jager? except that four loko doesn't sponsor David "maestri" Lama

It won't be lost. Just don't clip the bolts. Think of Sonny Trotter. He chopped the bolts on The Path

If you put a canopy on this rig, you'd have a backup for traffic jams that you could use for storage too.

Or you could make an igloo or a quinzee

dear cc.com this is a love letter to you and how you brought us together

I see a flaw in your logic based on an erroneous assumption in those last few words

Yeah cc.com was so much more polite back in the day super polite thread with 0% spray from 2001

"I was getting really competitive with my masturbation. I was up to three times a day for a while, but it got so I was worried about my climbing suffering." - Guy "Fast Eddie" Edwards c. 1994

Safe for work: http://news.bbc.co.uk/earth/hi/earth_news/newsid_8792000/8792008.stm Squid's penis is longer than body.

Another year closer to death ::