Should be a great clusterfuck up there this weekend! Get an early start lads. Heard the mountaineers are leaving the parking lot at 5:00 AM and using all day siege tactics.
Climb with someone who takes big whippers on gear. Seeing one of my partners take a big fall on a yellow alien helped me get my confidence back up (and he is a big guy). If the rock is good and the gear is good, trust it and go, or throw in another piece as a back up and then go for it.
The schedule you have looks like a good one. You can also train in 14-21 day blocks were you do most of your workouts stacked, then have a recovery week where you would only workout three days (not stacked) to allow you body to rest and rebuild (Zatopeck Phenom).
Matt I was thinking the same thing. Two major fires and they want to devistate the area even more. If they want to control fire, get some guys out there clearing all the brush, devils club, slide alder, but theres no money in that.
Depends on the route, but typically for cragging:
1 set of camalots #.75-#4, double #1 and #2
1 set of aliens blue-orange, double of yellow and red
1 set of nuts
8-10 Shoulder length slings/w 2 wiregate biners each.
*more big stuff for off widths if needed.
Alpine: depends on the route.
Was up there today. Not much ice, just some thin smears and plenty of snow on rock. Snowing pretty good all day. Did'nt see any slides or evidence of recent debris.