fern

I am not making a to-do list. I am testing a theory pope.

is tight hands and overhangs a little. try again...

Are there any non-overhanging true hand cracks (i.e. neither too tight nor rattly but just right for most people) that are rated harder than 5.10d? I suppose in Indian Creek there must be some enduro horrorshows, howabout in any of the granite areas?

A group from Arizona called Grand Chilcotin Heli Skiing has applied to the Provincial Government Dept of Lands Office in Williams Lake for a license to start heli skiing in a large area that includes the Pantheon and Waddington Ranges. The long term plan is for a large scale heli skiing operation. Letters or emails expressing concern for this plan can be sent to these people: Pentti Leppanen & Duncan Watson 201 172 N. 2nd Ave Williams Lake, BC V2G 1Z6 Pentti Leppanen- pentti.leppanen at gems9.gov.bc.ca Duncan Watson- duncan.watson at gems9.gov.bc.ca I quote from John Baldwin (guidebook author): I believe Dru and Captain Caveman have posted pictures in the gallery of some partions of these ranges.

A close reading of all the things that have not been organized by the 'organizers' reveals what has been organized. wooo....party....

fingerlocks and smaller is best because small nuts and cams are cheeper than big gear.

can you hold out for another month Jon? Cause I seem to remember it was around about Hallowe'en last year that you got mad at all the whiners and sprayers and took the board down for a couple days. Maybe it can be an annual event?

Dachsteins!!! although you will probably need to sew on a leather patch on the palms, I find the wool slips on my ski-pole grips a bit. They worked for Shackelton.

pepper, pref fresh ground. no oil no butter no salt

did you look in the FAQ?????? probably can't even run a bath let alone a computer.

As has been mentioned, there already is a publication called the CAJ. Canadian Alpine Journal.

depends on the pin doesn't it? sometimes you pull that thing out and it leaves a nice slot for a tcu or nut or something. Sometimes it leaves a new fingerlock. ref Neat and Cool in Squamish. I hate it when a fixed pin gets pulled out but leaves behind sharp little rusty metal flakes welded to the rock. I've had a few cuts from that. Good thing my tetanus shot is current. How about this. What if there is a nice thin crack that was first climbed on aid, with a bathook hole off to the side at the top where the cracks peters to a seam. Since then the crack has been freed at some 5.hard with a dyno at the top, but also the bathook hole has been blown out to an unusable state. Is it OK to re-drill the bathook hole?

I have a horse, never been ridden. But I think even I am too big to ride her anyways since she's only 36" at the withers.

if you don't know how to ski yet, and go for taking the pro-lesson at a hill then make sure they don't spend the whole day teaching you to snow plow. (pizza frenchfries pizza frenchfries ) because snowconditions in which you can snowplow in the ungroomed backcountry are the exception rather than the rule. Good survival skilz to master are side-slipping, those windmilly kickturns whatever they are called. STOPPING. Getting up once you fall down. Getting skis on and off on a steep pawdery slope etc.

I don't know too much about the Ptarmigans. Were they affiliated with a Seattle area college at all. I've recently been reading old minutes and cabin logs from the UBC outdoor club, dating from the 1930s and 1940s and they mention several ski competitions between the various colleges.

perhaps a better question is: given the peak was originally named Ha Ling Peak after the first ascentionist (a dude named Ha Ling), why did people instead choose to call it 'Chinaman's Peak' for almost a century?

niggard

why did Brachtylydactus and the Grand Wazoo get renamed?

I think it would be interesting if the Dwayner/Pope/like-minded contigenent composed an article explaining their bolting concerns, their understanding of the history of route development, 'spirit-of-the age', etc. Use examples, anecdotes, pictures of Tom Stoppard so on. Take as long as you like to describe your perspective in a complete coherent way absent of the back and forth jibing that comes out of a so-called 'discussion board'. And of course the other side who might include RuMR, cracked, Sphinx, (well, I am not sure who to put in the category but I supposed you can identify yourselves as being pro-whatever-Dwayner-is-anti), can do the same. Write about your ideas of bolting, of climbing, vision for the 'future of the sport', what traditions of the past do you think are outdated etc. And then TADA! You can publish these articles together at the same time on this very website. And your audience can read what you have to say in a clean (like spray-free) way. And then you will have a foundation for your ongoing battles about THE ROCK, rather than who is a old and who is cowardly etc. I know that you are all such very-busy people who are long past the age of doing homework (well maybe not cracked ). But maybe if you integrate the time you have spent making quick quips that failed to get the point across you will see that you have already spent a lot of time 'discussing' things without having much understanding to show for it.

An increasingly rare characteristic, I'm finding. Does gym and sport climbing develop the proclivity toward hanging around wasting time, and only looking ahead a few steps at a time, or is there something else going on? I don't think the phenomenon is limited to the gym and sport initiated. I do notice that it is correllated with the same type of person who seems to think their development as a climber and acquisition of new skills depends on them finding a "mentor". The word passive applies well. Although the hardmen with their constant safety meetings can be pretty good at lollygagging the day away too

muffy, respectfully, I don't think you know anything about my success at finding partners. I think it's kinda random to bring me up as an example here. I hope maryk finds some partners, I don't think it matters whether or not she leads. Plenty of people around here seem to get hooked up with ropeguns.

I don't know what the picture is you refer to. You can reach the south, east and north ridges all as an easy day trip from Tricouni meadows. You can get quite high on the logging roads from the south east side (Chance Creek). You can access the S. Ridge by hiking up talus towards a narrow bushy north facing gully. This gully is very easy but may look intimidating from below. The south ridge has a big gendarme, which you can avoid by descending off the S.Ridge and traversing a basin on the W. Side until you can get on a short W. Spur. There are smooth slabs here, probably tricky if wet, and a little loose sandy rock on the spur. 3rd class. I think you get on the East Ridge by scrambling up past a waterfall into a perched basin. 4th class The north ridge you drop through a narrow col onto a glacier (the glacier is not on the topo maps), and traverse west and up scrambly mixed terrain to an obvious shoulder on the ridge. The ridge is narrow, lichen covered, and technical. 5.6 or so. You may find an ice axe handy for all the routes.

Chuck, I climbed the NW Face of Liberty Bell with Erik and AlpineK, there was no romance for me It was my first time to climb in WA Pass, and it was beautiful. I would like to climb there again sometime. You wanna go? The most amusing point of my weekend was running into a Christian motorcycle gang on the way home who thought I was reading the bible at the WA Pass overlook. They were a little disappointed that it was actually the Beckey guide and not 'The Good Book', so I told them it was just a matter of perspective.