
fern
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Everything posted by fern
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do you have really big feet? If you are getting both new boots and crampons you should consider doing some experimenting to find a combination that works. I have found that some crampons styles adjust poorly to fit certain boots in extreme sizes. I had to look around for a good fit for my tiny boots, and my friend also had difficulty finding a good fit for his size 13s.
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I tripped on a stick on the trail to Mt. Slesse and smashed my face, then I saw a HUGE salamander on the trail. I didn't know they grew so big, like about 8" just the body ! Then I balanced rocks on a moraine ridge in the fog and drizzle. Then I ate pie at the Chilliwack airport. Then I climbed the dirty chossy scary North North Arete in Squamish. It was fun. The end
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Paula Poundstone had a bit in her standup routine in the late '80s, about everybody from the theatre going to the nearest circle-K and buying a slim-jim. Who is this arriviste Bruce Sterling?
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Anchor Buckles Carabiner Device Ends
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if the climbing doesn't merit double rope technique, and the only ropes you have are singles then the double rope system is just extra fustercluckage. Either carry the extra or have the leader tow it unbelayed. If you have two followers then it might be worth clipping the xtra rope to directional pieces, but it isn't really necessary to belay the leader on this rope. (if it was windy or something you might want to manage it more closely). Don't have the second just drag the xtra rope behind 'cause it might jam on something and hose you, what a waste of time. rope drag!!! both on the rock and in your device.
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I heard a vague rumour that the rap route is set for single rope raps too. If you finish fully into the trees (slab traverse beyond the rap anchors) there is a nice water spring. If you think the raps are strenous you probably don't want to hike back to Camp 4 along the valley rim by way of YosPt, but it is quite a scenic option, and takes you through an untravelled piece of the park.
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personally I wouldn't bother with the 10cms unless I was planning to do crazy thin water ice stuff. but also you might consider getting at least one longer one (17-22cm) in case some day you need to drill an abalakov to rappel off.
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-> build gear anchors quickly -> rappel/downclimb efficiently -> deal with loose rock (don't knock stuff down on others) -> climb easy stuff with a pack in boots fast
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Nothing in my statement makes any suggestion of the kind. If you have a point to make feel free to do so explicitly in your own words.
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the term 'surging' in glaciology refers to a particular type of periodic fast-flow behaviour. It is not directly related to climate factors, as evidenced by the fact that each surging glacier follows its own 'clock'. It also is not related directly to the health of the glacier, since during a surge event the snout will advance at the expense of ice storage in the accumulation zone - i.e. the volume of ice doesn't change it just redistributes. I could be wrong but I don't think there are any surging glaciers in the lower 48, they are a polar/subpolar phenomenon.
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Cascade Alpine Guide, Vol 2, 3rd Ed, errata/addenda
fern replied to Lowell_Skoog's topic in Author Request Forum
my understanding of this situation is that the topos in the Bensen/Green guide were based on uncredited originals drawn by one of the authors of the new Elaho guide anyways, but the topo credit was given to the Mountaineers publisher's artist who tidied them up for printing. -
but for goodness's sake DON'T PANIC!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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they only used 12 PBRs? ... lightweights.
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did you do the search? nobody questioned that fact, and that is not the nature of the chestbeating. So the tropopause is lower in polar regions than equatorial ... can you quantify the resultant effect in terms of the relative physiological stress experienced climbing in Alaska at a particular altitude versus climbing in the Himalayas at a particular altitude? ... numbers!!!
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what is tidal volume? this 1mmHg pressure differential ... is this the over/underpressurizing that expels/draws breath?
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more cross-training! I did some superfun 4WDing up to alpine. Then a short hike into the most beautiful little meadowed lake I have seen in a while. Then climbed a fun long rock ridge to a summit with the best views I have ever had. Tricouni Pk. s Then hiked back down to the truck and realized I had the worst sunburn I have had since the time I was 11 and spent the day at the water-slides and afterwards my mom had to cut my t-shirt off with scissors because I couldn't move
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from here "Testing done by the AlliedSignal Corporation indicates salt water, acetone, benzene, chloroform, freon, gasoline, kerosene, motor oil, mineral oil, paints and pine oil do not appreciably affect nylon and should not damage your rope. Laboratory tests performed have shown no appreciable damage done to nylon fibers by contact with insect repellents containing DEET (Test #0559). "
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article on Harleys in this months Smithsonian ... 40% of owners have annual income over $75,000 ... that's the level of dirtbaggin I could handle
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I thought as much excellent ... I look forward to the showcase showdown
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so why did MrE's poll disappear?
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technically illegal and could net you a fine. Bivying at the Pigeon-Howser col and beyond is fine though.
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when I was there a few years back they had toasters. the word from a ranger was that anybody could make use of the electrical appliances whether they paid to stay in the hut or not, this because the hydro-electric unit they run overproduces and the excess just goes to heat anyways. only paying guests are supposed to use the gas appliances. hard to police I would think, and a not an easily exploitable set-up for dirt-bagging if you can't camp at Boulder Camp.
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if anyone decides the rope-up is weak they can head down to 8-mile groupsite and hang with the 50 or so canadian college kids that'll be there ... like erik and e-rock did last year ... icicle canyon is gonna be crooooowwwwwddddedddd.
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do whatever you like. you're a grown up. I think asking for recommendations is wacky. you have a guide book don't you? like I say have fun