sexual_chocolate

I am NOT the friggin' pope! For Gawd's sake, enuf is enuf! pope can't crawl up a 5.10 sport-climb, and you'd be hard-pressed to get me on a run-out 5.8 trad climb without bolts!

$35.00! That's a big cash throw-down, for what? What's top prize in each category yo, or is this money-making for ol' Rich and his investor friends?

Caveman is lying again. IT NEVER HAPPENED.

OH NO YOU DON'T!

Alright haireball, go back to practicing your one-arms. You're down to a limited number of years now, so you better use them wisely!Remember: squats don't help. And Caveman: A foot sack in your bum is WAYYYYYY different than your average bum plug in your bum. So fuck off, sister.

Polite people say "bum plug", thank you very much. And once you learn to dance, I highly recommend it! It's "pleasant"!

Hey, I Moondanced with a footsack in my bum once. I highly recommend it!

I've done a one-arm with each arm, from a couple degree bend in the elbow. My pull-up rep max is now about thirty, but was only about twenty-five when I did them.

And remember: this comes from a man who can't... do... a ohmygawd single...hahahaa...one-armed pull-up! Buahahahahahahaha!!!!!! After 36 years of trying! Buahahahahahahahahaaaa!!!!!! But seriously, his advice sounds good. I do pull-ups twice a week, hard sets though, and I've been improving a lot lately. But I just started adding another day 'cause my body can handle it.

Easy answer for me. Chronic, at Little Si. It was a hell of a monkey on my back for the last year. I'd been wanting to red-point something of that difficulty, and somehow Chronic ended up in my lap, and it totally sucked. The route itself is awesome, with fun moves up a slightly over-hanging wall, consistently hard with two marginal rests, but it started really screwing with my psyche, 'cause I'd fall over and over again, usually right at the same spot. I knew I'd eventually get it, but since I WASN'T getting it, I started to doubt at times, and totally lost my psych. Then one day I went up after work, really tired, didn't really think about success or failure. I sat down at the base of it and meditated for about five or ten minutes, and started climbing, straight up Chronic with no warm-up or anything. I felt decent, no different really than the other times. Got to the crappy rest about half-way up, and that's where I noticed something was different- my breathing was mellow, and I was fully recovering! I milked it for probably 5 or 7 minutes, feeling better and better. Then I went. Traversed to the right a few moves, up some right-hand lay-backs (remembering to clip the bolts by my feet hips and shoulders!), got to the crux and simply breezed through with minimal effort. I didn't do anything special to try to train for it, just my normal training and climbing. I had been lifting weights pretty heavily, and that actually seemed to help quite a bit. I was pretty thin 6'2" 155, so adding a few pounds of muscle has helped. Oh and my home-wall. That's what it's all about. Being psyched and climbing alot, smartly. Lots of timed and symmetrical routines on my home-wall. I wouldn't have done anything differently. And advice for anyone? If you get psyched about something and really want it, have faith in yourself and keep trying, but don't be afraid to ask for advice along the way! 'Cause it's pretty rewarding to get something you've worked for so hard. At least is was for me!

Hey Haireball, I think there might be some truth to what I've heard regarding one-arms: some people are structured differently. I don't know? Maybe? How close are you now? How many are you doing with the 35 lbs? Single arm on the lat machine seemed to help me a lot, but I don't think I still can do a one-arm from complete complete extension. If I bend my arm just a few degrees I can do one, but from total extension, something seems to bind in my shoulder in a strange way....Taller people seem to have a harder time with one-arms....

I don't know how he proposes doing a lever, but they are HARD! I think incorporating texplorer's idea of little jibs into a pull-up routine is a good one. Have a jib out in front, maybe waist-high, that you can barely reach with your toe, and then do pull-ups while keeping a toe on the jib. Trains core strength with pull-up strength, which is what so much of harder steeper climbing is all about. I've done this before, and I noticed an effect after a few weeks of concerted effort.

Yes, accurate. Same as with slab-climbing. But once the ice (or rock!) starts tipping to vertical and beyond....thank god for upper-body strength!

Super-cool pull-up workout I just started: Take 75% of your pull-up rep max, meaning if you can do 12, then choose 8. Do a set of 8, rest 2 minutes, again do your 8, again rest 2 minutes, and repeat for a total of 4 sets. I found it to really start burning by the 3rd set, and actually couldn't complete it until my 4th workout (2nd week). Now my goal is to complete the 4th set, and then bump my reps and start working up again. This seriously feels very beneficial for any type of climbing where endurance or power-endurance is an issue. I find it to burn in a similar way as when I'm taking my red-point burn on that crack that pope bolted; I think it's called R.O.T.C. or something? But seriously, this seems like a really good workout. Have fun! BTW, I worked out my pull-up swing issues. It was just a matter of coordination! Thanks for your input, to all who replied.

goldang it. a sisu-suomi who doesn't speak finnish! did you grow up speaking it? parents speak it?

Terve, Suomalainen! Osaatko puhua Suomen-kielta?

Nice story, freeclimb9. I didn't realize parasailing was so dangerous. Nice lead quote on your home-page, btw! I fully agree!

Originally quote by Figger Eight: "'Another reason to paint bolts bright colors.' Maybe long streamers and flashing lights should be attached to them as well?" Hey figger eight, don't you think that's kind of overkill? I think just a nice bright color would do the trick; that way we don't need to go overboard with unnecessary attachments to the rock.

I was on a route once, up at Banff it was, at Lake louise. Fun place. Well, I was on a route, climbing higher and higher, and I started wondering a little bit about what was going on 'cause I hadn't clipped a bolt for probably ten feet. So I looked around, and it was then that I noticed: I had gone right past my last bolt, WITHOUT NOTICING IT! The bolt was silver, and blended into the rock, making it almost invisible. (Another reason to paint bolts bright colors.)I couldn't reach back down to it safely, and the next bolt was probably like another 5 or 6 feet above me. Well, I decided to go for it, just run it out, and see what happens. So I started climbing, and I made it! Man was I happy. I was pretty pumped, but I managed to clip the damn thing, and it was right about there that I almost decided to just quit climbing completely, but I decided actually to continue to climb, and I have done just that, although still it is scary sometimes. So that is my contribution to this epic thread.

Erik: my car has been making a funny knocky sound, kinda like kukukuku when I'm in fifth gear. It's an '87 Mazda B-2000 pick-up with 210k. What can I expect to happen next, and anyone (BTW) want a truck for cheap? Quite serious here. It's got a nice canopy. And in the same vein, any cars for sale out there? Preferably a Subaru wagon.

You've been skipping out on your Anger Management homework again, I see. Time for a time-out, little guy.

Oh Caveman, I was wrong! They DO let troglodytes into school nowadays! How's kindergarten treating you?

Alright now, Bonzo. Just remember, nice troglodytes lick! Now that's a GOOD Bonzo....

Where did Caveman go? Is he frustrated and throwing rocks in his cave again? Or perhaps visiting www.dictionary.com ?

I rest my case.