sexual_chocolate

Except Coarse and Buggy stole my nut in the lower section; if anyone's got it, give it back!

BTW, I've seen Illusion Dweller mentioned a few times; am I the only one who thinks it's an awkward and generally unpleasant experience? But Coarse and Buggy, now THERE'S a nice 10b!

No man! The left side is HARD!

Best 10b cracks? ROTC, at Midnight Rock. Thin Fingers, at Index. Split Pillar, right side, Squamish.

I myself am currently in southern California, heading to Joshua Tree in a couple of days. Then Bishop for some bouldering, then Utah! Hope everyone's having a great time where-ever you may be!

Krishnamurti quotes on www.cascadeclimbers.com! He was quite the climber himself, you know. Unfortunately, it usually consisted of climbing on another man's wife. How disappointing this was to find out, yet "Heros eventually fall....", as Outkast (make sure you check Aquemini!) raps.... But, damn if W's post ain't straight-up insight! I wonder how many times I've grown to hate climbing, simply because I've gotten caught up in the mentality of striving for some future gain or goal (once I'm better, THEN I'll really climb!), instead of being where I'm at, either inspired right here right now, or NOT inspired (and forgetting about climbing until I am inspired.). I always need to forget about being "better", and simply do what inspires me. There really seems to be no "better" or "worse", only "try as hard as I can"! "Better" or "worse" is just comparison to some projected ideal, and god it sucks! It's so limiting, and soul-sucking! I always hate climbing when I'm trying to measure up to some silly and arbitrary(!) ideal. I don't give a fuck what anyone else climbs! (Whew. I feel better now.) So, to answer the question of what limits me (in terms of having fun. If climbing ain't fun, then what is it? A silly method to try to prove our self-worth?): 1. comparison to others, or some ideal. 2. believing that there are limits. Any limit I believe in would simply be a projection of my fears, no? Hey, thanks for listening, my CC.com revolutionary comrades! Merry Holidays!

quote: Originally posted by Courtenay: NolanR wrote: << You go til you have to drop out, last man (or woman) standing is the winner. I used to rip off thirty or forty or fifty at the end just to maintain my dominance. Come on Courtenay, I'm trying really hard to impress you here. >> Why? No really, if you can do 50 wide grip pullups from full arm extension(i.e. not halfsies) at tempo of 2 seconds up and 2 down without a lot of momentum swinging, then I'm impressed. I like the card idea -- may try that with some of my clients!! I think he speaks of push-ups, not pull-ups. Do you know anyone who can do 50 wide-grips at 2 secs up, 2 secs down? That is really really slow! I can do about thirty wide-grips with full extension, but that's cranking them out with a quick cadence. By the way, I never feel it in my lats. Am I supposed to? My shoulders and arms seem to be the first to fail.

I didn't realize so many people have home-walls! Wow. So you have 10 to 12 feet width-wise, with 8 foot ceilings? Is the ceiling available for use? Sounds like you have enough space to make it interesting. I'd personally think about perhaps making a section of it adjustable in angle; your space isn't huge, and if you fix all the angles, it just makes your climbing more limited. (Perhaps make one 4*8 panel adjustable, whilst fixing the others into a variety of angles.) The second-most important aspect by far, I think, is having a big variety of holds tighly packed. I have an 8*6, fully adjustable, and on that small a space I have 110 hand holds and about thiry-five foot holds. And I made all the holds myself out of wood! They were fun to make, and cheap. Really skin-friendly too. That was actually my main reason for making the holds myself; wood lets me climb longer. So multi-angular (make sure ya gots steeps!) with tons of holds and foot jibs; ya can't go wrong.

quote: Originally posted by epb: I was wondering if a hang board is the way to go...however I have no wear to hang it. My walls are plaster, and I can't drill into them You just have to find the studs behind the plaster with a special tool called the stud finder. Then drill pilot holes into the studs, and commence hanging the chosen one onto the chosen location. Then ye shall choose the work-out which doth seem the finest in all of existence, which will then quickly transform thee into a heathen sport-climber, able to run laps on rock routes that traddies eye with enviousity indeed. Indeed I say unto you, fare thee well.

Super glue.

sisu suomi, fake Finn, it's "bum" plug. Quite simple. Now please apologize.

What is the mechanism? Some sort of protein uptake inhibition?

Yes yes, that would most assuredly increase healing time. Also wipe Caveman's butt with that finger, while you're at it!

I am NOT the friggin' pope! For Gawd's sake, enuf is enuf! pope can't crawl up a 5.10 sport-climb, and you'd be hard-pressed to get me on a run-out 5.8 trad climb without bolts!

$35.00! That's a big cash throw-down, for what? What's top prize in each category yo, or is this money-making for ol' Rich and his investor friends?

Caveman is lying again. IT NEVER HAPPENED.

OH NO YOU DON'T!

Alright haireball, go back to practicing your one-arms. You're down to a limited number of years now, so you better use them wisely!Remember: squats don't help. And Caveman: A foot sack in your bum is WAYYYYYY different than your average bum plug in your bum. So fuck off, sister.

Polite people say "bum plug", thank you very much. And once you learn to dance, I highly recommend it! It's "pleasant"!

Hey, I Moondanced with a footsack in my bum once. I highly recommend it!

I've done a one-arm with each arm, from a couple degree bend in the elbow. My pull-up rep max is now about thirty, but was only about twenty-five when I did them.

And remember: this comes from a man who can't... do... a ohmygawd single...hahahaa...one-armed pull-up! Buahahahahahahaha!!!!!! After 36 years of trying! Buahahahahahahahahaaaa!!!!!! But seriously, his advice sounds good. I do pull-ups twice a week, hard sets though, and I've been improving a lot lately. But I just started adding another day 'cause my body can handle it.

Easy answer for me. Chronic, at Little Si. It was a hell of a monkey on my back for the last year. I'd been wanting to red-point something of that difficulty, and somehow Chronic ended up in my lap, and it totally sucked. The route itself is awesome, with fun moves up a slightly over-hanging wall, consistently hard with two marginal rests, but it started really screwing with my psyche, 'cause I'd fall over and over again, usually right at the same spot. I knew I'd eventually get it, but since I WASN'T getting it, I started to doubt at times, and totally lost my psych. Then one day I went up after work, really tired, didn't really think about success or failure. I sat down at the base of it and meditated for about five or ten minutes, and started climbing, straight up Chronic with no warm-up or anything. I felt decent, no different really than the other times. Got to the crappy rest about half-way up, and that's where I noticed something was different- my breathing was mellow, and I was fully recovering! I milked it for probably 5 or 7 minutes, feeling better and better. Then I went. Traversed to the right a few moves, up some right-hand lay-backs (remembering to clip the bolts by my feet hips and shoulders!), got to the crux and simply breezed through with minimal effort. I didn't do anything special to try to train for it, just my normal training and climbing. I had been lifting weights pretty heavily, and that actually seemed to help quite a bit. I was pretty thin 6'2" 155, so adding a few pounds of muscle has helped. Oh and my home-wall. That's what it's all about. Being psyched and climbing alot, smartly. Lots of timed and symmetrical routines on my home-wall. I wouldn't have done anything differently. And advice for anyone? If you get psyched about something and really want it, have faith in yourself and keep trying, but don't be afraid to ask for advice along the way! 'Cause it's pretty rewarding to get something you've worked for so hard. At least is was for me!

Hey Haireball, I think there might be some truth to what I've heard regarding one-arms: some people are structured differently. I don't know? Maybe? How close are you now? How many are you doing with the 35 lbs? Single arm on the lat machine seemed to help me a lot, but I don't think I still can do a one-arm from complete complete extension. If I bend my arm just a few degrees I can do one, but from total extension, something seems to bind in my shoulder in a strange way....Taller people seem to have a harder time with one-arms....

I don't know how he proposes doing a lever, but they are HARD! I think incorporating texplorer's idea of little jibs into a pull-up routine is a good one. Have a jib out in front, maybe waist-high, that you can barely reach with your toe, and then do pull-ups while keeping a toe on the jib. Trains core strength with pull-up strength, which is what so much of harder steeper climbing is all about. I've done this before, and I noticed an effect after a few weeks of concerted effort.