sexual_chocolate

BTW, is "Dwayner" related to "Pope"? They seem to speak with a similar "Tonal"....

BTW, as I seemingly speak out against the sentiments of Dwayner, please note that I do it with compassion for his feelings, ie. I feel his pain. Don't laugh, I say this sincerely. I can tell he is sincere, and he speaks eloquently of his beliefs. I also think that the disussions will continue (and continue and continue) here and elsewhere, with many public policy decisions yet to be made regarding the use of bolts on public lands. I also think that the reasoned voice (although at times a bit... ahem... irrational, anachronistic, and reactionary) of Dwayner will contribute greatly to his cause, much to the chagrin of the bolt-dependent climber, for not many on the "other side" of the issue speak with such clarity and wisdom. Having said that, I think it's about time I headed out the door to clip some bolts on this 130 foot piece of absolutely wretchedly ill sport climbing at the World Wall. It's sick, it's wrong, it absolutely dispossesses me, yet I go back, again and again and again.....Wish me luck!

Hey PP, thanks for the welcome-back. It's been a while since I've checked in. Cascade Climbers, Unite!

I don't know if difficulty, pure "objective" difficulty is something that motivates an individual such as Dwayner. His ethics and motivations were developed when climbing was more of an isolationist's pursuit, especially here in the NW (is Dwayner from here?). Now climbing has become mainstream, thanks in large part to the ease of clipping bolts or the ease of laying a crash pad on the ground (plus, it's fun?). If anything, I feel sadness when hearing Dwayner's lamentations about the changes in "our" sport. Perhaps if he could develop a little compassion for the human condition, and understand that things do indeed change, he might be able to actually engage in the ENJOYMENT of climbing, climbing in ALL its aspects?

Ummm.....My vote for the hardest 5.9: ROTC at Midnight Rock. For a 5.9, that thing is HARD!

yes, mf206er, i've gotten on Dwarf Toss, and you're right, it is 10d at least. Also the funnest route at index right now!

Nietzsche went crazy; what kind of air was he breathing?

Anyone know how the decision came out concerning the extension of the wilderness trail-head parking permit requirement?

I third the suggestion above. We got to Tahoe in 13 hours last December. So figure 17 to Bishop using this route. Are other routes faster?

I haven't seen it mentioned yet; a little surprised. I suppose it's not well-known yet, but I would imagine this will change soon, due to the magnificence of the climb. I actually forget what he named it, but.... The north face of Mt. Baring. A new route established by Brian Burdo, at considerable effort and expense, ascending the north arete of Dolomite Tower. 13 pitches of incredible positions, culminating in a sizable roof at pitch 9 or so. Very repeatable, very enjoyable, very athletic, and very much one of my all-time favorite multi-pitch endeavors.

Haha! Illusion Dweller sucks! Everyone agrees with me, Matt Anderson! And if you know the secret beta on ROTC, it CAN'T be harder than 10b! Coarse and Buggy? You don't NEED any beta on that climb; just climb it, and have fun on the best 10b ever.

Except Coarse and Buggy stole my nut in the lower section; if anyone's got it, give it back!

BTW, I've seen Illusion Dweller mentioned a few times; am I the only one who thinks it's an awkward and generally unpleasant experience? But Coarse and Buggy, now THERE'S a nice 10b!

No man! The left side is HARD!

Best 10b cracks? ROTC, at Midnight Rock. Thin Fingers, at Index. Split Pillar, right side, Squamish.

wired knut: yeah I'm interested. send me pm about the shape and other specifics.

I myself am currently in southern California, heading to Joshua Tree in a couple of days. Then Bishop for some bouldering, then Utah! Hope everyone's having a great time where-ever you may be!

Krishnamurti quotes on www.cascadeclimbers.com! He was quite the climber himself, you know. Unfortunately, it usually consisted of climbing on another man's wife. How disappointing this was to find out, yet "Heros eventually fall....", as Outkast (make sure you check Aquemini!) raps.... But, damn if W's post ain't straight-up insight! I wonder how many times I've grown to hate climbing, simply because I've gotten caught up in the mentality of striving for some future gain or goal (once I'm better, THEN I'll really climb!), instead of being where I'm at, either inspired right here right now, or NOT inspired (and forgetting about climbing until I am inspired.). I always need to forget about being "better", and simply do what inspires me. There really seems to be no "better" or "worse", only "try as hard as I can"! "Better" or "worse" is just comparison to some projected ideal, and god it sucks! It's so limiting, and soul-sucking! I always hate climbing when I'm trying to measure up to some silly and arbitrary(!) ideal. I don't give a fuck what anyone else climbs! (Whew. I feel better now.) So, to answer the question of what limits me (in terms of having fun. If climbing ain't fun, then what is it? A silly method to try to prove our self-worth?): 1. comparison to others, or some ideal. 2. believing that there are limits. Any limit I believe in would simply be a projection of my fears, no? Hey, thanks for listening, my CC.com revolutionary comrades! Merry Holidays!

quote: Originally posted by Courtenay: NolanR wrote: << You go til you have to drop out, last man (or woman) standing is the winner. I used to rip off thirty or forty or fifty at the end just to maintain my dominance. Come on Courtenay, I'm trying really hard to impress you here. >> Why? No really, if you can do 50 wide grip pullups from full arm extension(i.e. not halfsies) at tempo of 2 seconds up and 2 down without a lot of momentum swinging, then I'm impressed. I like the card idea -- may try that with some of my clients!! I think he speaks of push-ups, not pull-ups. Do you know anyone who can do 50 wide-grips at 2 secs up, 2 secs down? That is really really slow! I can do about thirty wide-grips with full extension, but that's cranking them out with a quick cadence. By the way, I never feel it in my lats. Am I supposed to? My shoulders and arms seem to be the first to fail.

I didn't realize so many people have home-walls! Wow. So you have 10 to 12 feet width-wise, with 8 foot ceilings? Is the ceiling available for use? Sounds like you have enough space to make it interesting. I'd personally think about perhaps making a section of it adjustable in angle; your space isn't huge, and if you fix all the angles, it just makes your climbing more limited. (Perhaps make one 4*8 panel adjustable, whilst fixing the others into a variety of angles.) The second-most important aspect by far, I think, is having a big variety of holds tighly packed. I have an 8*6, fully adjustable, and on that small a space I have 110 hand holds and about thiry-five foot holds. And I made all the holds myself out of wood! They were fun to make, and cheap. Really skin-friendly too. That was actually my main reason for making the holds myself; wood lets me climb longer. So multi-angular (make sure ya gots steeps!) with tons of holds and foot jibs; ya can't go wrong.

quote: Originally posted by epb: I was wondering if a hang board is the way to go...however I have no wear to hang it. My walls are plaster, and I can't drill into them You just have to find the studs behind the plaster with a special tool called the stud finder. Then drill pilot holes into the studs, and commence hanging the chosen one onto the chosen location. Then ye shall choose the work-out which doth seem the finest in all of existence, which will then quickly transform thee into a heathen sport-climber, able to run laps on rock routes that traddies eye with enviousity indeed. Indeed I say unto you, fare thee well.

Super glue.

sisu suomi, fake Finn, it's "bum" plug. Quite simple. Now please apologize.

What is the mechanism? Some sort of protein uptake inhibition?

Yes yes, that would most assuredly increase healing time. Also wipe Caveman's butt with that finger, while you're at it!