sexual_chocolate

BTW, damn good climbing. Haven't tried it, but it's the tips crack out in the desert that goes at 12d?

Dang, pope. You're "on-sight flash" is gone forever!

I'll take a stab.... You're saying that gym climbing does NOT help with sportclimbing, and the UW rock doesn't help with "real" bouldering? Hmmmm, highly specious from one trained in practical reasoning!

quote: Originally posted by thelawgoddess: there's a difference between getting pumped and getting a workout. why is gym climbing any different to sport climbing outdoors than the husky wall is to climbing on real boulders outdoors? hmm??? (some of you just aren't getting it!) Hmmm....I tried to run this through my logic grinder, to no avail. Please tell us what we're not getting!

So in other words, bolted sportclimbing exists because it's safer than toproping.

quote: Originally posted by pope: My favorite sport is climbing. Clipping my way up a monotonously bolted rock doesn't feel very sporting and one could argue that it isn't climbing at all (or at least that it has more in common with toproping than real leading). Not trying to sound condescending here, just trying to understand why somebody would put all of that effort into bolting(littering) when the result isn't going to be a real lead. Hah! You're back! How did the sw(?) face of half-dome go? BTW, you can't always set up a toprope without access to the top of the cliff, and you can't always access the top of the cliff with trad pro. Hence, sportclimbing is born! Also, on many routes, an attempt with a toprope would lead to some serious swings, with dangerous potentials. X rated topropes! More serious than many trad leads! Maybe you're on to something here....

quote: Originally posted by svilar: I'm going back to school to get my teaching cert. The possibilities for teachers are endless. If you're patient, you can live in any town in the world, have lots of time off and even bring in enough $ to move out of the back of your car. Once you get certified there are numerous opportunities to teach and live in places like New Zealand, Chile, etc. If you want to try teaching before going to school go to California and sub. All they require is someone who can fog a mirror. Good luck. -Dave Really? Are there any requirements? Not even an undergrad? Does someone without certs make decent money in cali (how much)? Thanks

quote: Originally posted by michael_layton: You cannot teach in Washington w/o a teaching certificate. I would already be in school by the time I got my cert, but good info for others. Lots more jobs for medical assistants too. quote: Yo: hack. You're your own boss, and the pay is good. You come and go as you please. Don't wanna work tomorrow? Hah! Screw 'em. Go climbing instead. Don't know what it's like in B'ham, but in Seattle it was good. Coupla bills a day, albeit long days, and you meet interesting people. Just watch out for road-rage. And armed crack-heads! What job are you talking about, or are you calling me a hack and I should be my own boss at anything? Couldn't decipher this one. Some good ideas for climbers here if they have a time to invest. I do not, so unless I get the "miracle" connection/offer, It looks like temp jobs, or getting hired for a chain, and quitting when I want time off. Once again, it is very hard to get a job w/a gear store in B'ham. X-mass time is another story, however. But guess what's fun to do in the mountains around x-mass time that occurs in places w/ no jobs ever? Yup, ice-climbing. Ski area jobs seem pretty good. It's too late for Antartica jobs, but those are good ones too. Ahhh! Hack: Taxi-driving!

Ummm, what am I missing here? I'm not privvy to all the facts about the Portland episode; it seems as though (as always) there are two sides to every story. The link DFA provided seems to indicate that the cops sprayed and attacked without provocation (a peaceful protest is NOT provocation in a supposed democracy). It's funny how differently people see and interpret events, depending on their personal, political, cultural, etc., histories! One person sees a mouse where another sees an elephant! I think, with a little bit of patience and mindfullness, there is the potential for understanding why anyone comes to the conclusions they do (whether or not we agree with them) which often leaves us in a position where what we so stubbornly clung to as the "right" way doesn't necessarily ring so clearly with self-righteousness anymore.

Kuka saatana voi sanoo mitaan pahaa UW kivesta? Hirtetaan heti! Mina, ja monet muut, oppittiin Siella. Se oli meian ensimmainen kiipeys paikka! Mina vielakin menen sinne, joskus 3 tai 4 kertaa viikossa! Siella on hauskaa kaikille!

Hey, thanks DFA, for that link.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Zoom is too hard for me to do without falling but it's good. Wham would be good if I could get both feet off the deck and into that thing Too much beer gut- If you ever do get both feet off the ground, Wham is awesome. Makes ya think.

"If you can tolerate children, substitute teachers are usually needed everywhere. Often times they put you on a list and call you for the days you say you are available to work. You can say yes or no, or just not answer your phone. I know it pays fairly well out here. And shit, I think kids bring their own computers to the classrooms these days...you could get a laptop, spray on cc.com on the days you work...climb in the days you dont!" What is "fairly well", as far as pay goes? I'm just curious....I've had thoughts of teaching....

Yo: hack. You're your own boss, and the pay is good. You come and go as you please. Don't wanna work tomorrow? Hah! Screw 'em. Go climbing instead. Don't know what it's like in B'ham, but in Seattle it was good. Coupla bills a day, albeit long days, and you meet interesting people. Just watch out for road-rage. And armed crack-heads!

"Westbrae Brand Miso Ramen Japan Has the distinction of being steamed, not fried, so 80% less fat. Also boasts less sodium. What's the point of eating fat-free, reduced salt ramen? That's like drinking a no fat, sugar substitute, decaf latte! 1.50/pkg. at Larry's. Larry’s, harrumph. Figures. Wine: Something white and Californian and out of a box, that's for sure" Perhaps pricy, but it does have the distinction of being the only organic product reviewed, no? So perhaps a nice bottle of Cote du Rhone would complement it nicely; one of the few unintentionally organic products left on our planet!

"Hey, DFA ain't that sort of Doctor, buster!" Oh my god! My bad! I just thought that with all the buggering you'd done on Dwayner and others.... Have you done or been on the whole 5 Easy Pieces? It looks to be quite a proud line and seems like it'd make a fun outing, despite rumors of it being a drill-fest (just imagine, a 5.13(?) at Smith with chipped holds ). NO! I want to.... Looks super-good. Franklin originally called it 12c? No one could do it or somesuch, so now 13a on the 4th pitch? I also forgot to mention Vanishing Point on the north face of Baring. Really not a sport route, cuz two or three pitches need gear, but damn close. Tennish pitches, consistently consistent, great location, great rock, and way exposed (scary!) yet safe. A must-do!

"Hey, just cuz they bolted it don't mean it's a sport-route! Tread drift - but what is *your* definition of a sport route?" Oh, my reference was simply to the fact that Wings of Desire is a climb (albeit beautiful, gracious, and bold, with amazing positions) entirely protectable with trad gear. Now good god, how could anyone justify the bolting of that wonderful trad line? If that was at Index, would it not have been chopped ages ago? A sad shame, I say.... But, since you asked me *my* definition of a sport climb, I would say it would be any climb that is bolt-protected in such a fashion as to make serious injury unlikely. No serious run-outs, no trad gear needed, nice anchors at the top, and perhaps Dwayner and Pope along to carry your shoes and rope, and sermonize about the great travesty you are about to commit! BTW, MATT ANDERSON, great trip report. You make me drool for overseas adventures!

"Anybody check out Marcus or Horne lake?" I've been to Horne Lake, and it's really good. Overhanging limestone! I've heard there are some access issues as of late, so I'd check first.... What's Marcus Lake about?

quote: Originally posted by Geek the Greek: Wings of desire at Skaha was awww-sommme. That was probably the most pumped I've ever been. Stood at the no-hands rest for a good 10 minutes to recover before the little roof... Hey, just cuz they bolted it don't mean it's a sport-route! But heck yeah, that's a good route! [ 08-24-2002, 02:28 PM: Message edited by: sexual chocolate ]

quote: Originally posted by dyno merchant: bellingham bouldering...hundereds of problems...V0-V9...harder projects...more areas being developed as we speak... but you could just go to the Udub wall...hah! Can you tell us the location of this bouldering area?

Aw, come on now. You know better. You can barely differentiate between reps and dems now....pro capital punishment, corporate welfare, welfare reform, free trade, etc. etc. I wonder if you have a bit of an antiquated ie. McCarthy-inspired (Ayn Rand inspired) view of Socialism? It seems to me that most all Europeans and Canadians I have met hold their countries' socialistic structures in high esteem, due to the positives of a more level playing field (with its attendant securities).

All Nader does is espouse the same ideals that the democratic party USED to espouse, before the entire country's shift to the right, during the Reagan years.

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: quote:Originally posted by iain: Unfortunately Ralph Nadar, while extremely intelligent and thoughtful, is not "presidential material" in the traditional sense. He just doesn't have the requisite stage presence and slick self-promotional material. It is a shame. Nader is also a socialist, at heart, who wants the government to control and regulate ALL industry. His stand doesn't sound anything like what our country was founded on (and worse than we have now). I agree with MtnGoat - more liberty and personal responsibility and less governmental intrusion. Ayn Rand's writing is very refreshing. To clarify, Ralph Nader was removed from the audience of debate because he was trying to enter using someone else's credential. Greg W Yes, Ralph Nader seems to espouse many noble qualities of socialism, akin to some European and Canadian customs, and, suffice it to say, more industry regulation is needed, as has so amply been proven following the dereg and privatization scandals of the last ten years. The chickens have come home to roost! Also, to FURTHER clarify, the debate committee's rules have a rather high bar for entry: 20% in the current polls for qualification? Am I right on the number? Rather egregious, if you ask me....

For some reason, I've always liked Hydrophobia at Little Si. Magic Light at Smith I always enjoy. Californication at Little Si (Chronic sucks!). Ooh...Five Easy Pieces at Smith. Oh why are you so fun, little one, little one? Oh jeez, Kings of Rap. And something called Missing Link at Lake Louise, Banff. Yo hard! And what is our favorite proctologist's favorite route, por favor? I believe there are numerous points of curiousity quivering, perhaps bwain dwayne being one of them?

quote: Originally posted by thelawgoddess: "hard" is relative. especially in boulder problems. i can work some stuff on the wall; i just don't get a workout from it. a workout, to me, involves sore muscles more than "sore tendons". anyway, i just prefer to boulder in relative seclusion, surrounded by nature, and on REAL boulders. I agree, me too. But I do get killer workouts there, mainly power-endurance laps on the over-hangs. If ya do it right, great for hard bouldering and, heaven forbid, hard redpoints!