sexual_chocolate

Hey, I heard someone say bolts are the work of Satan. Is this true? If so, this truly concerns me. What is your opinion?

quote: Originally posted by offwidthclimber: oh. i've always been curious... what are the general ratings for some of the classics at the UW rock? coach's crack? off fists crack right of coach's crack? finger crack on the east end slab? any of the other cracks at the rock? Coach Crack: 5.10? Off-width: 5.10? Finger crack: 5.10+? Most others between 5.9 and 5.11, with the short overhanging finger-crack by the water-side slab definitely 5.12?

quote: Originally posted by pope: Most impressive high-ball I've seen: on the Stadium side of the tower, the left side of this face (between widening crack and left edge), no rocks for the feet! 24 Hour Tobacconeer. Only hard at the start (hard is a relative term...). A new one's being worked on that eliminates about half the rocks. Truly frightening with potentially serious consequences!

Does everyone know Coach Crack? It's the good hand crack on the water side, furthest east wall. Layback the left side, features only for feet, no crack for feet. A good one! V4?

How could I forget?!?! 12 Gauge IQ at Rhythm and Blues cliff! Would anyone argue if I called it THE BEST sport line at Index? Also, Dwarf Toss is pretty damn good. It's the free version of Snow White, just left of Princely Ambitions.

I think what happens often is that violence becomes institutionalized, ie. violence is inherent within the structures of a particular society/culture, and because it has become "part of the scenery", many are oblivious to it and its effects. Then when opposition occurs, violence becomes much more apparent to the oblivious bystander, yet the mechanisms of the institutionalized violence have a self-protective mechanism built in (denial), much as what happens in the smoothest running dysfunctional family (everything is blamed on the individual who points out the dysfunctionality).

Oh my gawd! Did I just sort of call you a right wing fanatic? [ 08-26-2002, 12:35 PM: Message edited by: sexual chocolate ]

"I do not agree with these protesters on nearly anything they say, I agree they have the right to protests, but when I see people *stay* at a barrier and *intentionally* face cops for long periods of time, they're not choosing the peaceful route IMO." I suppose you would have been opposed to many of the tactics of the civil rights movements, such as sitting in the front of the bus, ala Rosa Parks, because it's "confrontational". I personally don't like the idea of protesters being herded into smaller and smaller "containment" areas; wtf, last time I checked, a protest usually occurs in the vicinity of that which is being protested! The peremptory tactics being employed by the ones making the policy decisions are, I believe, just adding fuel to the fire, further drowning out the voices of opposition. When a segment of the population feels itself to be voiceless, unheard, ignored by the corporate-owned media, and then pushed even further by COPS WITH GUNS, aka stooges for power-brokers (left or right), then yes, we will, predictably, have violence. Check:civil rights movement, War of Independence, Boston Tea Party, Romero in El Salvador (assassinated by US cronies), Daniel Ortega, etc.... For a "libertarian", you sound dangerously close to an ultra right-wing fanatic....?

quote: Originally posted by slothrop: Whoa, is this "Coach" guy the same dude I've been calling Captain Aggro? He looks like he's about 40 and deep in midlife crisis, wears shades and has a sort of fledgling mullet. I saw him race a dude on a bike across the grass behind the UW rock once, grunting and screaming like a wounded wildebeest and running a lot like one, too. Yes, that certainly sounds like the traveling side-show. He may assume the characteristics of a raving madman, which he is, but I believe him to be quite harmless, and a warm human being to boot! BTW, a classic: as you face the wall from the parking lot, it's on the slightly overhanging face right of the tallest middle wall. Texture only for feet, dyno from the huge block head high just right of the crack, to the big block in the middle of the face, and then to the top! (Scary!) Remember: no rocks for feet, so no fair mantling the starting block!

Sheeesh! What's with all the hate? Coach is a fixture, a one-man carnival, a traveling freak-show, there for our amusement! Appreciate him, before they get him. Shhhhh, keep it secret!

quote: Originally posted by Off White: quote:Originally posted by Fairweather:

The Razor is ok.

Is there a new Leavenworth guide coming out? And if so, who's putting it out? I've got an old route from years ago we never reported, and it's always been misnamed and misrepresented in all the guidebooks. I'd kinda like to get our version in the book, finally.

I know you got 'em.... Which ones are memorable to you, and why? I'd pick something called Nothing Dies on the very back wall facing the water. Sit-start on the lowest jug on the right, texture only for feet. Straight up to Marx, left hand out left to texture, move feet up and left, bump left to Double Crimp. Hard match here. Once matched, move right foot to good texture just right of the crack, and throw right hand to Stalin, definitely the crux, by far! Took me a long time to finally stick this move (body tension). Feet up, layback and reach Jaundice side-pull with left, right foot up, match on Jaundice, dyno left to Hatchet (easy), match, throw to Big Block, and say "Right on!" Also, 24 Hour Tobacconeer.

BTW, damn good climbing. Haven't tried it, but it's the tips crack out in the desert that goes at 12d?

Dang, pope. You're "on-sight flash" is gone forever!

I'll take a stab.... You're saying that gym climbing does NOT help with sportclimbing, and the UW rock doesn't help with "real" bouldering? Hmmmm, highly specious from one trained in practical reasoning!

quote: Originally posted by thelawgoddess: there's a difference between getting pumped and getting a workout. why is gym climbing any different to sport climbing outdoors than the husky wall is to climbing on real boulders outdoors? hmm??? (some of you just aren't getting it!) Hmmm....I tried to run this through my logic grinder, to no avail. Please tell us what we're not getting!

So in other words, bolted sportclimbing exists because it's safer than toproping.

quote: Originally posted by pope: My favorite sport is climbing. Clipping my way up a monotonously bolted rock doesn't feel very sporting and one could argue that it isn't climbing at all (or at least that it has more in common with toproping than real leading). Not trying to sound condescending here, just trying to understand why somebody would put all of that effort into bolting(littering) when the result isn't going to be a real lead. Hah! You're back! How did the sw(?) face of half-dome go? BTW, you can't always set up a toprope without access to the top of the cliff, and you can't always access the top of the cliff with trad pro. Hence, sportclimbing is born! Also, on many routes, an attempt with a toprope would lead to some serious swings, with dangerous potentials. X rated topropes! More serious than many trad leads! Maybe you're on to something here....

quote: Originally posted by svilar: I'm going back to school to get my teaching cert. The possibilities for teachers are endless. If you're patient, you can live in any town in the world, have lots of time off and even bring in enough $ to move out of the back of your car. Once you get certified there are numerous opportunities to teach and live in places like New Zealand, Chile, etc. If you want to try teaching before going to school go to California and sub. All they require is someone who can fog a mirror. Good luck. -Dave Really? Are there any requirements? Not even an undergrad? Does someone without certs make decent money in cali (how much)? Thanks

quote: Originally posted by michael_layton: You cannot teach in Washington w/o a teaching certificate. I would already be in school by the time I got my cert, but good info for others. Lots more jobs for medical assistants too. quote: Yo: hack. You're your own boss, and the pay is good. You come and go as you please. Don't wanna work tomorrow? Hah! Screw 'em. Go climbing instead. Don't know what it's like in B'ham, but in Seattle it was good. Coupla bills a day, albeit long days, and you meet interesting people. Just watch out for road-rage. And armed crack-heads! What job are you talking about, or are you calling me a hack and I should be my own boss at anything? Couldn't decipher this one. Some good ideas for climbers here if they have a time to invest. I do not, so unless I get the "miracle" connection/offer, It looks like temp jobs, or getting hired for a chain, and quitting when I want time off. Once again, it is very hard to get a job w/a gear store in B'ham. X-mass time is another story, however. But guess what's fun to do in the mountains around x-mass time that occurs in places w/ no jobs ever? Yup, ice-climbing. Ski area jobs seem pretty good. It's too late for Antartica jobs, but those are good ones too. Ahhh! Hack: Taxi-driving!

Ummm, what am I missing here? I'm not privvy to all the facts about the Portland episode; it seems as though (as always) there are two sides to every story. The link DFA provided seems to indicate that the cops sprayed and attacked without provocation (a peaceful protest is NOT provocation in a supposed democracy). It's funny how differently people see and interpret events, depending on their personal, political, cultural, etc., histories! One person sees a mouse where another sees an elephant! I think, with a little bit of patience and mindfullness, there is the potential for understanding why anyone comes to the conclusions they do (whether or not we agree with them) which often leaves us in a position where what we so stubbornly clung to as the "right" way doesn't necessarily ring so clearly with self-righteousness anymore.

Kuka saatana voi sanoo mitaan pahaa UW kivesta? Hirtetaan heti! Mina, ja monet muut, oppittiin Siella. Se oli meian ensimmainen kiipeys paikka! Mina vielakin menen sinne, joskus 3 tai 4 kertaa viikossa! Siella on hauskaa kaikille!

Hey, thanks DFA, for that link.