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I spoke with a DOT official yesterday, and he stated that they closed off parking at the East Portal due to, "Railroad workers and DOT plows not being able to get their jobs done." He stated they were not obligated to hold a public hearing on the closure, and chose not to. Really, I guess it's no big deal, as the skin to the trailhead isn't that bad. But I've never seen that parking area overrun with skiers' vehicles. Ever. Even on the best of days. It would be nice to have just a Mon. thru Fri. closure, and no overnight parking.

Exactly, and truthfully I wouldn't really care if they closed parking along the hiway if it were in the middle of nowhere. But obviously, this pullout has allowed easy access to two classic ski tours for some time now. We're left to either walk the roadway, or skin along the side of it. It's as if they arbitrarily decided to restrict parking without any input. Was there a public hearing on this prior? Does this restriction end as soon as the snow melts?

I know you're just guessing at DOT's reasoning, but I don't buy this explanation, as the pull-out is ample to accommodate any emergency piss or puke break. Even on a perfect powder day, I've never experienced more than 5 or 6 cars parked in that area.

On a super fun tour of Jim Hill Mtn. today, Kyle Flick and I noted signs prohibiting parking where I've normally parked for the past 4 years, the huge pull-out by the DOT garage. This parking provides very convenient access to these two excellent tours. Now, the best option is a mile west or east. We parked at the SP Nordic Center, and skinned back east. Part of that path puts one just above Hiway 2, eastbound. And there are a couple parts where if one lost an edge on the ice, you're landing on the hiway. So, my beef is, why restrict parking in such a large pull-out? The options now are a bit dangerous, either skinning above the hiway or walk it. There's room for the plows to turn around, and still allow cars to park up against the snow bank.

I have all next week to ski. Would love to skin as far as possible up the Ing. Direct, conditions and cardio permitting on Wednesday, 1/23. PM or call: 5096999810.

Sounds like Arlberg hooked you up. But I highly recommend Tuna Sport in Wenatchee for your mounting needs. Core people there, friendly and fast.

What terrible customer service. As consumers, we definitely have the last word, which is nice. I definitely won't be going there. I thought Brian and wife did an excellent job in the time they owned it. He gave me generous deals on climbing stuff, and was knowledgable.

Okay, Kyle Flick and I have been up the first five pitches of this route like, three times now. Here's my take on it. Others can dispute it as they see fit. I have some photos posted in my gallery of each pitch. Check out the TR I posted w/photos and those of others as well. P1: Start left of where the Nelson guide tells you to start. Look up about 40 meters and you'll see a chain anchor. You should start right below that, and climb 5.8 climbing to a short bolt protected 5.10 crux move. End at the chain anchor, but use the two bolt anchor that is 15 feet climber's right of this. No aid on this pitch, just mostly fun 5.9 climbing with two bolts and small to medium gear. P2: Aid over a small overlap, that has a fixed knifeblade. Excellent, solid gear leading up to the overlap. C1. Then, a camhook in a pinscar gets you past a flare, to more easy aid C2. A slider nut is useful in these tiny cracks. After 20 meters, free up a fun corner with 5.8 stemming, until it steepens, then C1 gear up and left to a beefy, 1/2" three bolt anchor. There is a fixed nut and pin high on this pitch. Pitch is about 50 meters. P3: Aid or free up to the roof. C1 gear. Start the horizontal traverse under the roof on C1 gear. A 4" cam is useful on a large flare to link one fixed pin at the start of the traverse to a fixe stopper. Then easy gear to the end of the roof. Follow a nice crack and three bolts out left from the roof, avoiding the loose blocks that the Nelson guide mentions. Then, traverse back right, up over to a lower angled ramp to some fixed slings. Clip cleaning the roof makes it trivial following. C1 pitch. P4: Easy and fun 5.7 free climbing up to the arch. The arch is flaring, and takes HB offsets, and small aliens really well. No need to hammer in pins here. Solid C1+ gear, ending at a funky belay. There are three bolts: One an ancient button head that feels quite solid, another a new 3/8" bolt that appears to have been kinda fudged, and a 1/4" bolt. Not the best of stations, but I'm still here to talk about it. Short pitch. P5: Lower about 15 feet from the belay, and pendulum over to a hand rail. Hook it with a solid grappling, or free it by manteling. Once standing on this rail, there is a nice crack for a medium cam, then all C1 gear leading up to the double roofs. There are several fixed heads on this pitch, all of which were very solid. The first roof protected nicely with a 3.5" cam. The second roof was the only place I hammered in a sawed off angle in a tiny flair. I'm sure a cam hook will suffice there for our next attempt. Then over the second roof, excellent, fun aid or free, on C1 gear to a gear/pin belay. There are three Knifeblades at this belay, but a great crack for gear. About a 45 meter pitch I think. Great exposure! And this is where we stopped....

Thanks for the good leads! Frankly, I couldn't believe $80 is charged for this process. Especially if you get some dumbass that totally screws it up.

...Or pony up the $80.00 to have your local retailer do it? What has your experience been doing your own liners? Good websites that give good instructions? This would be for Dynafit AT boots... Any opinions and ideas would be appreciated.

Despite my Avatar, I'm locking the heel for the first time this winter since I can remember... Sierra Trading Post has a few randonee boots. I've narrowed it down to the Scarpa Avant boot or Garmont Hi Rides. At over 6' and 195 lbs, fairly aggressive skier, which boot would be most appropriate at finding that balance between touring and turning control?

Castle Rock was perfect yesterday, and deserted. Thursday, go figure.

Why yes, I have, many times! Since Kyle Flick is too shy to rave (his wife owns it now), I will say Homefires is the best bakery in the area. If you're lucky enough to find one there, get a cinnamon croissant twist. The cookies are outstanding.

It's Pennant Peak.

God I love fall! The crisp mornings, slanted light, dusting of snow in the high country, gang tags...ah yes! Favorite time of year!

Odd post Kyle...Feeling feisty? Relax, have a couple croissant cinnamon twists that your wife makes (AT HOMEFIRES BAKERY, FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO WERE WONDERING! PREY'S FRUIT BARN). Highly recommended, those croissant twists...super damn good!

Clip cleaning the Lith Lip makes it trivial, and actually pretty fun because it's like you get to lead it too, but as a second. Much preferred than struggling under then over the lip on jugs.

God that's funny! I hear the voice of Andrei Codrescu whenever I read one of Ivan's narratives.

I have this Thurs. 7-26 off. Anyone have this day off to do both climbs or at least Backbone? shoot me a PM or call!

This Saturday. 7-21. Race up Backbone, jog over to Prusik for the west ridge or S. face, depending on energy and time, jog on out to the car. I've always wanted to see if I could muster the energy for this monster day (at least for me). I've been up Backbone 5 times, S. face twice (B/S route). Or just one of the routes is fine with me as well. Long, but fun day in the Mtns! Calling is best: 509-699-9810. I probably won't get your PM in time.

Kyle Flick and I climbed Berge a couple years ago, looks like the similar approach. We found it relatively straight forward. If you hike below Berge, you can scramble up easy slabs to the col between Berge and Buck. From there, it's a nice pumice field up the backside of Buck Mtn. Beautiful area! Nice pictures!

Well done. You must have an even deeper appreciation of Croft's abilities. God, that 2nd pitch crack on the lower ridge is difficult and slick even protecting it. Couldn't imagine free-soloing it.

Some obvious crags come to mind...Pearly Gates, Rat Creek Dome, or an early morning jaunt up snow creek wall would do. If ya got time Sunday, no-rush day, mellow cragging, give me a ring: five oh nine, six nine nine-9810. John

Hey gang. I have a bunch of free time this week. Day trips, long hikes to climbs, scrambling, ridge running, whatever, in der mountains arouund Leavenworth! I can best be reached at: 699-9810. My internet access is sporadic, so phone is best. I'm ready to go as soon as tomorrow. I don't mind showing newbies climbs around the area. Lots 'o fun to be had this week! John

Geeze! He makes brass balls look like 5.8. Whenever I lead it, you would think it clocks in around 5.11b.