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telemarker

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Everything posted by telemarker

  1. This Saturday. 7-21. Race up Backbone, jog over to Prusik for the west ridge or S. face, depending on energy and time, jog on out to the car. I've always wanted to see if I could muster the energy for this monster day (at least for me). I've been up Backbone 5 times, S. face twice (B/S route). Or just one of the routes is fine with me as well. Long, but fun day in the Mtns! Calling is best: 509-699-9810. I probably won't get your PM in time.
  2. Kyle Flick and I climbed Berge a couple years ago, looks like the similar approach. We found it relatively straight forward. If you hike below Berge, you can scramble up easy slabs to the col between Berge and Buck. From there, it's a nice pumice field up the backside of Buck Mtn. Beautiful area! Nice pictures!
  3. Well done. You must have an even deeper appreciation of Croft's abilities. God, that 2nd pitch crack on the lower ridge is difficult and slick even protecting it. Couldn't imagine free-soloing it.
  4. Some obvious crags come to mind...Pearly Gates, Rat Creek Dome, or an early morning jaunt up snow creek wall would do. If ya got time Sunday, no-rush day, mellow cragging, give me a ring: five oh nine, six nine nine-9810. John
  5. Hey gang. I have a bunch of free time this week. Day trips, long hikes to climbs, scrambling, ridge running, whatever, in der mountains arouund Leavenworth! I can best be reached at: 699-9810. My internet access is sporadic, so phone is best. I'm ready to go as soon as tomorrow. I don't mind showing newbies climbs around the area. Lots 'o fun to be had this week! John
  6. Geeze! He makes brass balls look like 5.8. Whenever I lead it, you would think it clocks in around 5.11b.
  7. You should have done the tram approach and deproach! Cool pics and nice report. The important question you didn't answer: Red or Green chile?
  8. Looking to get at least a couple routes in this saturday. don't care which ones. three if possible would be a nice way to get thrashed. anyway, shoot a PM if interested. I'll do the leading, doesn't matter. Just wanna get out, have a full day, have fun! John
  9. Surprisingly enough, the headwall pitches protect well with med to large stoppers and hexes, though it's nice to have 2 #2 camalots or equivalent. P4, head straight for the short corner, don't get suckered out right, and rope drag will not be a problem. Finally, one can rappel the route these days. So much better than the walk off. Double rope raps down the climber's left of the headwall to 2-tree ledge, scramble down to the anchors at the end of the "regular" first pitch, then a 60m rap to the ground.
  10. This is a cool link-up. Iconoclast is outstanding. Would like to follow that up with Outer Space, RPM start to it. Shoot me a PM if you're interested in getting on these routes this saturday. I'm in Wenatchee, so don't expect me to pick yo ass up in Seattle! I can, however, meet you at the park-n-ride at the Big Y (intersection of hi-way 97 and hi-way 2) if you're coming over Blewitt, which would save you a few miles. Cheers! John
  11. Yeah, the hex is still there. With a 60m rope one can easily link the fault and catapult to stoner's, and even have enough to get up vertebrae. Now you want to talk loose, climb vertebrae. Huge and loose boulders. Fun crack tho.
  12. Sunday looks good! I'd like to get a bunch of pitches in on Castle Rock if yous interested, or anywhere else don't matter! I can be reached: 509-679-8058 Not really logging on much anymore, so I might not get your PM.
  13. Hey that's all right. I think I'll just plan on every Wed. after work, so next week possibly.
  14. Any of you E-O-M locals want to get in some quick pitches on castle rock or who the hell cares where else after work tomorrow, 3-28? I can be there and geared up by 5pm, coming from the snatchee.
  15. Yeah, I lead that one too, and it's definitely different in character, and harder, to the rest of the newer climbs up there. The start to Red Tide definitely grabs your attention.
  16. Yep, I though Red Tide was a bit disproportionate grade-wise to the other routes in the area, but I think it's fair for the grade. It did catch my by surprise, though. It reminds me of 2nd pitch of Honky's Lament at Clem's. Also stiff compared to the other climbs on that crag, but lots of fun.
  17. Hey Joe, Ya wanna swap lives with me for a few months?
  18. I agree, 3rd pitch crack of BK is fun. All sorts of jams on that one short crack, and just getting into the crack is half the fun. Another favorite pitch is the 4th of Regular route, with a cool little bouldery move to start, and ending with interesting moves with your last piece a bit below you. Way to work it up there!
  19. Oh, they're there all right. You don't feel that tickly feeling on your scalp?
  20. which climbs you do on careno? Love that crag.
  21. Vile creatures.
  22. I haven't seen a single tick the numerous times I have been up there, but I imagine they are around since everybody talks about them. I think there is a few, can't be as bad as I seen ticks in other places. Oh, it can be bad. Couple springs ago I was bringing my partner up the traverse crack pitch, and was literally squeegee-ing ticks off the rope as it was passing through my belay device. Later I was jamming my up the headwall crack, and noted as I took my hands out of the crack, there were these tiny red things crawling over my hands. Makes my skin crawl talking about it. And then later at home, pulling ticks out of my hair and finding them in the back pack a couple days later. Ewww!
  23. be prepared to be constantly pulling ticks out of your neck and scalp.
  24. Purina/careno crags are sno-free, trundle dome, sam hill dry, givler's dome dry, think bathtub and vicinity sno-free. Mid 60's in wenatchee today, so should dry things out on s. slopes even more in icicle.
  25. Trip: Index, Lower Town Wall - Numbah 10, Stern Farmer Date: 2/19/2007 Trip Report: This is more of a composite Tr. Last week, Travis Hammond and I checked out Numbah 10, with a failed attempt on the A3+ Golden Corner variation to that route. I just wasn't committed enough to hook blown heads, and trust the heads were good 40 feet higher, because the corner is pinched off to nothing. There are a couple rivets, tho. I finished off on the Numbah 10 regular way, which was bolts between bomber gear. Recommended for cam hook practice, as the initial corner on N-10 is mandatory cam hooking between the bolts. We then had time to run over and do pitch one of Stern Farmer, which is excellent nutting up higher. This starts on Jap Gardens I believe, then jogs right at the first bolt. Kyle Flick and I went back this past Saturday get on SF again, as I wanted to give the 2nd A3+ roof pitch a go. Kyle did just fine on P1, his first aid lead since last spring in Yosemite. P1 goes at A2 I think. The second pitch starts in a pinched off corner up to the roof, then a long stretch right to a small flare right at the corner, which took a perfect blue/green hybrid. I found the pro on the entire pitch great. On the corner below the roof, there are two fixed pins, plus three heads. In addition, the nutting is micro but solid HB's. This pitch felt C2 at most. Even without the fixed pieces, the gear would be excellent. This route deserves more attention. Funny, despite the excellent weather, the aid climbers on saturday outnumbered the free climbers it seemed on LTW. Few photos: Travis cleaning P1, SF P2 Roof, SF
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