telemarker

Ya gotta give her credit, probably pumped silly, knowing she's gonna peel and still fighting upwards.

Cool! Did she rip a piece?

Once Kyle and I hit the sno crik trail, looking back up it looked like you guys had "dueling leads" coming out of that alcove belay, a bit crowded it was.

There was new snow as low as 4,000' Sunday on Mt. Cashmere, and it's raining steady and cold in Wenatchee right now.

No, I think you did it right. Climb left (you must have not seen the newer 3/8" bolt right by the buttonhead) to that flake, around the corner almost, then back right to the base of the final roof. We've always carried that pitch a full 60m to the Orbit alcove. Great pitch! Climbing straight up the corner from the belay looked quite pinched off to me. Good job. It actually looked busy on that route saturday. Sheesh!

willing to piece them out?

So, what's the deal with the rap anchors? Was someone looking to put in a more dangeous, complicated down SCW?

So, veering back again to the original topic, snow crik wall and bolting. We just climbed Iconoclast today, and noted big, shiney new bolts/rap station on the left end of Library Ledge, and another new bolt/rap station at the base of the corner crack just below 35 feet below (!) library ledge. And, Iconoclast was put up in '71, so someone must have upgraged the bolt that protects the move to the shield. And, someone must have upgraded the bolted anchor above the 5.11 yellow wall. Where was the peanut gallery when all these new bolts went in? What the hell's the big deal about updating a piece of crap bolt on Orbit?

They've been for two years I think. The first time I led it three years ago, there was one 3/8" and a 1/4"-er.

2nd pitch of RPM??? There are no bolts on p.2 of RPM, as it's all perfect cracks to a cool little roof with more fun crack climbing...

I'm getting drowzy just thinking about it. But thanks!

The Thai Restaurant, cleverly called "The Thai Restaurant" really is that bad. It's aweful actually. But hey! A second Chinese Buffet just opened up in E. Whitenatchee. Cliffhangar was a cool place to hang out in the dark evenings of winter, we really miss the place.

This was a lunch break post. The YMCA? What the hell are you talking about Kyle?! Share with us how many times you've climbed that lameass, 15 foot wall? Read the original post, there is no PUBLIC gym. Might I remind you your "neighborhood" lies 10 miles to the west. Wenatchee is freaking lame. A cultural and culinary black hole (with Cuc Tran and Lemolo's the only exceptions. Great food there!). You'd think the proximity to climbing there'd at least be one store that knows just a little bit about climbing. Thank God for Brian and LMS.

Now, of which of the 15 Mexican carbon copy restaurants are you refering?

Oh wait! Wenatchee is so freaking lame it doesn't have an indoor gym...The food here sucks too.

Isn't Warpy Moople a classic (notorious) there? Also, Mountain Momma. "Chriznitch" has climbed a few of the ridge classics there. He's a good person to ask.

Thank you. That's what I wanted to know. So what is the proper rating for COD? I've seen it rated 5.10b according to some. If it's really 5.9, I'd just go for it. But Castle Rock 5.9 can be quite hard. It has some of the best handjamming at Castle Rock. I head up and right after the crack to the alcove belay on Canary's 2nd pitch.

Crack of Doom was 5.8+, then 5.9, now 5.10?! COD feels 5.9, and would be a cool finish to OGM.

You do not need a 70m rope from (your P6) bolted belay to library ledge. A 60m reaches the bolted anchor on the left edge of LL just fine. The crack after psychopath is 5.8 at most, 5.9 if led all the way to the base of the yellow wall, about 50m. I agree, it's a very cool route.

To the dudes who epic'd on top, douse your fire next time before heading down Even though the fire danger is low now (I think), it's still bad form to just leave it burning.

Nice work guys! Perhaps a dehydration problem descending from Unicorn?

No nonsense, just climbin'! Anywhere around little Bavaria, don't matter. 5.9, 5.10's, work on some .11's... Either day works for me, though tomorrow looks pretty damn nice. PM or give me a call: 509-665-9550 Castle Rock Careno Crag SCW Get fired up!

Isn't it once your climbing standard increases, you can also increase your fear tolerance. Where you once would stop to place gear with your last piece at waist level-which was a crappy place to stop to place-you can now breeze on by without a second thought to an appropriate rest to place a piece. BTW, a simple finger jam and foot stem make SF Jello Tower a 5.8. Don't you think a large part of the mystique of SF was the guidebook's reference to bad consequences of a groundfall on the route? Well duh! Isn't that the case for most groundfalls?

Congrats on a cool climb! When I, Kyle Flick and Steve Tift climbed it 2 years ago, we ended up rapping down The Big Hose because apparently we can't read, and that the true rap route lay more to rappelers left of TBH. Needless to say, it was a harrowing 4 raps or so down an icy, loose narrow gully. Nice job! any pics?

Nice work! Great climb. I think the next CNR TR should focus on the Cascadian descent with the Longs Pass super direct route. Since in Nelson's guide the 1/2 ridge is a grade IV, does adding the lower ridge make it a grade V?