Otto

Jumars are the Standard! Not saying HB or Petzl aren't better, though, just not the Standard!

chucK and I had a goat visit us and our piss at the base of the West Face of NEWS last month. Then another, different one on the way back down.

Maybe the FFA will want to rename the route! That'll give us plenty to spray about...

Hi, I climbed your namesake peak once. It had a fantastic knife edge layback at the top, with no pro for a good ways. It was a direct variation of an old, classic route which moves left out onto the face instead of doing the layback. Do you know the route I'm describing?

Well, yes, I have some goals for replacement at Three O'Clock Rock also. I have been learning the techniques from a master craftsman, but I'm not ready to run the power drill yet. I was thinking of trying re-drilling some holes with my hand drill first.

Sounds good, Bug, thanks. Watch for a PM.

Yes, and they are indeed in the new guide. Starting at the big gully in the middle, which Kramar calls Chicken Gully, and going rightward, there are: 3 bolted face routes: Good Gravy, 10a, 1p Eye-Ons, 11b, 1p Tourons, 10b, 1p Then the old crack climb: Leaner, 5.7 Bolted face: Thanks a Lot, 5.8, 1p Another old crack: Wiener, 5.8 A great one starting in a sidepull crack: Be My Guest, 5.9+, 1p Starting way down at the road: Another Roadside Attraction, 5.9, 3p Finally, farthest right: Love Donut, 10a, 1p

You're most welcome, it was a lot of fun. You'll also find upgraded bolts on the Green Crab traverse, and on the lower pitches of Shock Treatment. Agreed, it's a great place. Let's hope the yahoos with guns don't shoot up the dam buildings too many times, losing access for us all.

Trip: Static Point - The Pillar Date: 6/27/2007 Trip Report: David W. and I went up The Pillar with an eye to update the fixed hardware. We rappeled the route and removed all the old, quarter-inch bolts and replaced them with 3/8-inch stainless bolts and Fixe hangers. The belay anchors were replaced with stainless chains and rings. The old holes were drilled out with David's new power drill and so were reused. New belay anchors were added at the tops of pitches 2, 3, and 5. The photos were taken the next week, when we were joined by Dan and his camera. Otto and David, with Red Bull, at Lost Charms tree. We didn't get photos of the first two pitches, but the first pitch is stellar - smooth pure friction slab. The base of the Pillar ledge, at the first new anchor. Getting up the right side of the Pillar. One can either layback the flake edge, or climb the crack in the middle. Dan at the top of the Pillar, at the second new anchor. David studying prospects... He's clipped to a pre-existing fat bolt at the right side of the Pillar top. We didn't take any more photos, but the fifth pitch involves pulling the overlap on natural gear, really fun climbing. It's good to have the new anchor at its top so one can skip the rappel over to the On Line anchors. Now one can rappel straight down the Pillar on good anchors, which applies to all the climbs in the area of The Pillar. Some of the steel and tat removed.

Mary Jane Dihedral is a very good route. I've done it a couple of times. The crux is right at the top of the dihedral, moving out left onto face holds.

Perhaps he was in the Lardeau area. I heard from a friend who works for the Province, in Nelson, that approaching is possible from there now that newish logging roads have been put up there.

Victor spells his name with two a's, Kramar.

Really fun TR, way to go!

Funny, but you got the names wrong. Should be "Edition", not "Volume". Like: First Edition - Old testament Second Edition - New testament Third Edition - Book of whatever...

As it turns out, it was perfect climbing weather all weekend in Leavenworth. Heavy overcast keeping it cool, a nice cool breeze, and it never rained during either day. We climbed all the moderate pitches at Bathtub Dome on Saturday, then the three good pitches on Keen Acres and Heart of Gold on Duty Dome on Sunday. Tee shirts and shorts, even got a bit of sunburn.

What a ramble, way to go! Big fun on a couple of 9000 footers. Thanks for the amusing trip report.

Nice, Matt. I used to climb with a guy who said he had a "cheater sausage" for those big placements...

OK, it's a Big Slab.

I was talking about the crux pitch with the 10b on it, not "such easy ground". If that's not pitch 18, sorry, don't have the topo handy. The bolts as you climb through that section are good.

Black flies were bad at Static Point on Sunday. We met a couple of guys there (which almost never happens) who let us use their bug dope. It was spray-on and came in a green bottle, did not contain DEET. It worked wonders, absolutely did the trick. No meth-head look.

I do not agree. I think the next crux pitch, it may be pitch 18, with the 10b, is really good. It has fun moves, nice and steep, and is bolted just right. It doesn't have any loose rock, as I recall. So why go all the way up there and miss that?

It's gonna be hot there tomorrow, too! I'll be up there in relative solitude. Wish I could join you on the Fourth, but have family plans.

You get even more good 5.8 crack climbing by starting from the road with The Arch and then Forking Crack.

Hi Matt, thanks for the photo-stoke. Dark Rhythm is a great route; I hope to lead the crux pitch some day soon! Coincidentally, I'm going up there tomorrow to do the West Buttress with MarkL; we hope the big flake is still attached. Cheers!

What happened, Week?