Otto

Black flies were bad at Static Point on Sunday. We met a couple of guys there (which almost never happens) who let us use their bug dope. It was spray-on and came in a green bottle, did not contain DEET. It worked wonders, absolutely did the trick. No meth-head look.

I do not agree. I think the next crux pitch, it may be pitch 18, with the 10b, is really good. It has fun moves, nice and steep, and is bolted just right. It doesn't have any loose rock, as I recall. So why go all the way up there and miss that?

It's gonna be hot there tomorrow, too! I'll be up there in relative solitude. Wish I could join you on the Fourth, but have family plans.

You get even more good 5.8 crack climbing by starting from the road with The Arch and then Forking Crack.

Hi Matt, thanks for the photo-stoke. Dark Rhythm is a great route; I hope to lead the crux pitch some day soon! Coincidentally, I'm going up there tomorrow to do the West Buttress with MarkL; we hope the big flake is still attached. Cheers!

What happened, Week?

Waka, read this site for the scoop on replacing old bolts with new ones, http://www.safeclimbing.org/index.htm

I was up there on Wednesday. The trail along the old road is getting overgrown fast, so I brought along a machete and it's better now! Also, the road has a new cave-in making the walk about 50 yards longer than last year. Also, the route called The Pillar has been rebolted with nice fat 3/8" stainless. New chain anchors, too. Great route.

Cool photos, thanks. "Leaves of three, let it be!"

Weekend, I'm not sure what you mean by saying Nevermind is "only published online right now." It is covered in the new guidebook, the one by Garth...? _________________________

That brings up the funny scenario of a route author adding more and more bolts to his route as he gets up into his 60's, 70's and even 80's! He still wants to climb it, but just doesn't think it's quite safe enough any more, so bang bang bang!

Interesting topic, cfake. Your observation about IPAs has historic significance - when the Brits were sending beer the long distance to their colonies, like India, they found it would eventually spoil and taste bad. They put a lot of hops in it, way more than normal, and found it covered up the spoiled taste. They called it India Pale Ale.

Hi PP, are you thinking of taking an "Interpretive Opportunity"? I love that org-speak.

No.

Sunday, went over to Leavenworth: Started at Castle Rock, did Smut. Finally something other than that damn Fault! Then did Brass Balls. Wanted to lead that ever since following Adrian the Mad Romanian up it, two decades ago. My partner wanted to lead something, so he did Jello Tower, South Face. I still wanted to get a workout so I did Damnation Crack. The second part of the program was to do the climb at the Special Spot, so much discussed here, the Javelin. But there were so many cars parked there we just moved on through! We went up to Secret Dome, where I did two fun slab pitches with great related names: Bulemic Bulges, and Anorexic Edges. Saturday: Watched Real Madrid win the Spanish league, drank beer.

Thanks for the cool and instructive photo, Bill S., makes the technique clear. This could be used on most pitches, as there is usually some rope left over. Sometimes, however, it's a stretch just getting to the belay...

avitrip, I found the link in the previous page of this thread to be really interesting - labeled: gunks.com cordelette discussion Its URL is: http://www.gunks.com/ubbthreads7/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/27851/page/1#Post27851

Same, here, ken. Cordelettes are fast, easy, and multi-purpose. And I am one of the old persons...!

And also Rollercoaster Chimney. I recall some offwidth technique at the top of it.

Woo hoo, I love it, canadug. Thanks for saying it. That goes for all popular crags, not just Squish. It's a very annoying distraction to hear a whining, yapping dog stuck down at the base while you're trying to figure out some hard move at your limits. I don't see how dog owners can do it if they know this.

So, the raptor nesting closure is over, right?

I can see all of the photos without scrolling when I set the resolution to 1280 wide on an 18" monitor. Thanks for the nice shots of all that lovely granite.

This is a review of the new Ratagonia catalog. It is very nice. Photo by Dean Fidelman

OK so the thread about "What inspires you" didn't go anywhere. How about this as a twist? Check your junk mail for the new Ratagonia catalog. See Steph Davis on the Cookie Cliff, page 22, for some stoke. I could scan and post, but that would be copyright infringement.

Good question, Waterguy. Inspiration comes unexpectedly from anywhere. I was recently flipping through a climbing rag from the '80s and now I'm totally stoked to go to the Needles, in the Sierras. Orange and yellow lichen on vertical granite planes just gets me off. Planning for September, yaaahhhh!