Otto

Good pic of the young-un, RuMR! This could be a great thread, people, if we post up some pictures with 'em. Let's brighten up these grey days of winter; it's what us cubicle dwellers need these days, good daydream material. So c'mon, post up! Possibly the best pitch I followed, this 3rd pitch of Igor Unchained, up the center of the yellow wall, top: Best pitch led was probably the Double Roofs pitch on SEWS, what a wild hang-out over space... but no pics of that one!

Igor Unchained, Needles, CA, Pitch 2 A wide crack connecting two even better pitches. Varied hand jamming, yellow lichen.

It was a big success. Climbed two routes from the Dais Glacier, with good weather the whole time. The trip reports are in the B.C. section here, but they've dumped the photos.

Trip: Mount Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir Date: 4/18/2004 Trip Report: I was sorting through a bunch of photos this weekend, and found some from this trip which didn't make it into the original TR. So I thought I'd post up the trip, done in 2004 with Jim Daubert and Jake Larson as a conditioner for a Waddington trip that year. From the basin camp The belay at the base of the constriction The good stuff Otto and madcap Jim's self timer robot composed a nice one Heading toward the rock ridge Photos by Jim Daubert Jim must have been busy brushing snow off the rock, as he stopped taking pictures. The upper West Ridge was pleasantly plastered with it. After summiting, and a round of dueling GPS devices, we descended via the Sherpa Glacier. Approach Notes: via Mountaineer's Creek

A great post, indeed, and of personal resonance as a similar tradition may have started this year for me. My newbie buddy, TJ, was asked by his loving wife what climbing gear he might like for a present. His response was, "Ask Otto..."! I found out soon when I called him up for a gym workout, and she answered and snuck in the question. I directed her to Nelson's shop and advised her what to ask him for...

I went to Red Rocks in February once and got snowed on. We drove over to Arizona and went all the way down to Cochise Stronghold before finding it warm enough to climb. I think it depends on the weather systems that come through, and you can't predict them this far in advance.

Good, modern 3/8" stainless. Funny you should ask, however. David got the anchor chains from Fixe which were billed as powder-coated stainless. Now, four years later, rust is showing through. Check it out. WTF?

Trip: Comb Buttress - Over The Rainbow Date: 10/14/2007 Trip Report: Trying to squeeze in a last good climb of the season, we picked a clearing trend in mid-October and got what we wanted. I couldn't believe I had never been up on The Comb Buttress before, but old habits are changing fast now. Partnering with a grand master will do that. I wanted to do one of the best routes at the crag, and David suggested his route Over The Rainbow. On Sunday morning I tottered up the trail, head heavy like a lead slug, having camped out across the valley with Knob Creek. We'd squandered the first two days misreading the weather and driving all over the state, although we did a couple of nice pitches along the Tieton...! The broken plans for a glorious three day adventure had forced me into the Darrington liquor store for memory reducers. The trail is in fairly good shape, but a huge log at the top required some careful stepping. A slip off that thing would result in a plunge of about 12 feet into broken sticks and the unknown. Finally at the base, the discomfort continued as there is no flat place, but who could complain with the golden leaves all around and the air warming up? The first of the three pitches is on knobs, and begins with two sloping ramps where I found the crux to be. Stepping up high on one knob, reaching far right with the other foot and pulling hard over with one hand, stick that foot! Then clean, white granite in little waves. David led the second pitch of interesting reaches for more knobs. I admired the orange and yellow forest, wondered and worried a bit about the crack above. It was good to get the fingers into something. It never gets very strenuous as the slab beside the crack is covered with good bumps and not so steep. photos by David Whitelaw There is so much good rock up here on The Comb. We walked along the base all the way over to Tongue in Cheek. With David providing commentary, I gathered intentions along the way. I'd exclaim, "Wow, look at that cool crack!" and he'd say, "That was done by Don Brooks in 1973...". Or, "This abortion was performed by ___ ". Like climbing with a walking guidebook. There is a lot more to Darrington than Three O'Clock and Dreamer and Exfo Dome. People looking for an adventurous day should head up to Comb Buttress once in a while. Here's hoping the coming winter won't be too hard on the road below. Gear Notes: Draws, nuts, a couple of cams around 2", and TCUs. Approach Notes: The trailhead is easy to find, there is a small wooden grating-like bridge over the ditch.

Well, I've only been there this once. It sure was nice in September, hot in the sun and perfect in the shade. So I'd guess mid-summer would be too hot for this Northwesterner. Late spring would probably be good, as soon as the snow is gone.

New Paltz, NY It's very pretty there, very green with deciduous forest. College town, no doubt a lot going on culturally. And it has a good poolroom.

ChucK, he might not gather your sarcasm, either. Interweb as Thunderdome, I love it!

Trip: North Dome - Crest Jewel Date: 9/13/2007 Trip Report: Ode to Crest Jewel The forest stroll from Porcupine Creek Allowed our stoke to slowly peak Anticipating a lucky streak Up the graceful curve of North Dome Big John took the first pitch there Which left the evens as my share With the dreaded Eighth, a .10a affair On the slippery stone of North Dome The scoops and dishes fit our toes Over not an edge did our fingers close I looked down the Valley at the Captain's nose From the high, hot rock of North Dome We quickly learned a lesson there To stay off the slippery orange glare Rather step upon the white patches where We delicately trod on North Dome 'Twas hot and sunny, but a cooling breeze Kept our heated soles at ease As we smeared and scummed and prayed, if you please, Up the proud broad sweep of North Dome And by the Eighth we'd got in tune With the nature of this holdless spoon As it flowed on past, I knew that soon We'd be up the wide South face of North Dome This white and black and orange world Held me in thrall til my vision whirled I looked over and saw, like a canvas unfurled, The stark expanse of Half Dome So here's to Dan Dingle, a Cascade son Whose first ascent was boldly won A Crest Jewel was mined, and shared, for fun On the fair, clean slope of North Dome photos by John Medosch

Wow! Yeah, I'd like to see that. Mine would have held if I could get it in deeper. Unless the flake opened up...

Trip: Lembert Dome - Cry in Time Again Date: 9/11/2007 Trip Report: Mesdosch and I got to Tuolumne in the afternoon, having driven in comfort and style after the luxury of a hot shower in a fine hotel. We immediately climbed a middling route on Medlicott Dome called The Middling. We must have been overamped, as John took a middling fall off the first pitch. Happily, he regrouped and scummed up the mighty 5.7 and we made it to the top. No pictures of that one, sorry. We retired to set up camp in Porcupine Flat. Next day we moved up to Lembert Dome and got on Cry In Time Again. Things started out well enough. I led the first pitch of slab, shaking the nervous willies loose. We were definitely on-route for most of the second pitch. But partner ended up too far left at an anchor not on my mental picture of the topo. As I led up the third pitch I spied some nice old bolts with those foldy looking stamped hangers. They were even further to the left, two of them. I clipped them, figured I was way off-route, and started some 5.10 traversing rightward. Plugged in my smallest TCU vertically in a flaring rotten flake. Moved up eight feet, tried to switch feet, and crumbled a nubbin underfoot. I went flying down, yelling "Help! uh, Falling!". Ripped out the TCU and held up, some time later, on the fine old 5/16" with a Leeper hanger. This piece took some weight before it pulled: I don't care what anybody says, I love Leeper hangers! Estimated 30' fall, took awhile to shake it off. Ended upside-down with head in arms, having watched the ledge rush up. Assessed the heel bruise and skin loss. Partner calmly handed me my glasses. I gathered the other fallen gear which had ripped off a broken gear loop and set off. With steely resolve, I made the moves back to the flake and set the next size cam in a slightly better spot. Then across the same knobs, this time with less faulty technique. Back on route, hoorah! Later we found out the two old bolts were on the third pitch of the next route to the left, Motivated by Food, 5.10a. The 00 Metolius did its job well. Now the axle has taken on a pleasing arc. However, it's cams won't move. Having lived a short but fulfilling life, the happy retiree rests in a box in the basement.

As my teenage son says, "Tight".

Kyle, you're right. I used it twice recently, and it was indeed lazy of me. I try to take a sober, didactic tone on TRs because it's hard enough just getting the thing put together, with some true information, and with the photos and all. Sometimes I get tired, and I let some chatty, cliche stylings slip in. I will try to be more vigilant.

What is the WPD crew? I'm not up on current pop music, if that's what it is...

Another good one is Absinthe of Mallet on Sheepshead. Varied climbing on clean rock, nice and long, less than 5.11, super fun. You might even find some quarter inch bolts.

Ah, I see you are right, "jmclimber" is from his email address, oh well. Yes, it was good to get out on a road trip again. We had a blast. Next installments are from Tuolumne...

Trip: Voodoo Dome - White Punks on Dope Date: 9/8/2007 Trip Report: JMclimber and I were lucky to meet up with a couple dudes from Moab who'd spent a lot of time here. Jason and Andrew clued us in on the best way to get to White Punks on Dope from the Needles campground. Taking the lower road, while getting close to Voodoo Dome, would take hours just to drive. Why not just rap the route? Knowing we'd have to set up some rappel anchors with gear, we took some extra cams and nuts. Then we'd just pick them up on the way back up the route. Two hours to the top of the dome from camp, and another hour to rappel, and we dropped in at the start just as another party was racking up. They had just made the grinding hump up from the lower road in two or three hours. I was glad our plan worked out without breaking a sweat. The first two rappels were fixed with nice modern anchors. The first pitch is sweet hands to fists. I ran the first two pitches together, pulling an overhang on face holds at the end. This ended at the undistinguished chimney pitch, which John led. And next, I got the amazing 5.9 enduro corner, a full 200 feet of this. At the top of the pitch there's a wild layback with no possibility of protection, but the slab is less steep. This made up for Big John getting the two great pitches on Igor Unchained. Satisfaction. Happily, he got an excellent full lenght slab pitch with all of four bolts. Random interesting variations are everywhere. I took the flake undercling variation to finish it off. A timer shot session on the summit. Tried to bracket for brightness, but still a bit dark in the foreground. This place absolutely rocks for route quality and cleanliness. And so many more moderate routes to do here! The climbing exceeded my expectations, with the pristine, primitive camping an extra bonus. Thanks to Jason and Andrew for the tips, and for showing us the swimming hole! Gear Notes: Full range, plus some for the raps. Photos by John Medosch. Approach Notes: Hike past all the Needles to the top of the dome, rap the route. Pull the ropes patiently through the chimney. Two raps are fixed bolt anchors, one from a tree, one from a pinch point, and two on medium sized cams and nuts.

Trip: The Witch - Igor Unchained Date: 9/6/2007 Trip Report: After a rest day, JMclimber and I headed for the Witch/Sorcerer notch to look at the famous crack climbs there. Decided to get on Igor Unchained to see what Needles 5.9 was like. Vertical and sustained, we were intimidated. John got the first lead so he got two great steep and sustained hand crack pitches, first and third. The second was more laid back, and wider, and still super fun. A look at the wall from the notch above. The route is the continuous, straight-up line in the left-facing corner. Airy Interlude is up in the yellow wall, left of center. Second pitch restful wideness. The Charlatan and Sorcerer in foreground, The Magician behind. Two climbers can be seen on The Sorcerer. The Warlock. The Charlatan. When I came up to John at the top of the third pitch, the endorphines may have taken over his mind, but he said that was the best pitch he's ever led. He's been getting it done in the Cascades for 30 years, but I had to agree it's possible. Gear Notes: Full range up to #4 Camelot. Photos by John Medosch. Approach Notes: One hour walk from the campground, stay high as possible under The Magician.

Trip: The Magician - Magic Dragon Date: 9/4/2007 Trip Report: JMclimber and I decided it was high time to visit the Needles in the Southern Sierras. It took us two days to drive down there via 395. Slept with cows in a field that night. Not advisable to approach from the East, the roads across the Sierra are slow. Tried to stay in Peppermint Campground but it was full of firefighters. Hope we didn't miss you there, Jake. The first climb we did was on the nearest crag, The Magician. We figured Magic Dragon, 6p, 5.8 would be a good intro as it covers the entire length of the crag. The amazing West wall. At the start of the route. Hardish start, indeed it seemed like .10a, and had to scrape weeds out the the crack to get in some tiny cams. The rest of the group. A nice wide crack on the third pitch. The fire lookout on the top, which was manned and operating. It was a good choice, with a variety of wide crack to smearing slab at the start. Got the butterflies out of the way. Gear Notes: Full range. Approach Notes: We went up from Pearsonville on 395, and saw the sights, long way in. Shorter from the West side, Porterville.

Anything by Peter Boardman or Joe Tasker.

I always like to recommend the beautiful Rollercoaster Chimney at Midnight Rock. A Beckey classic.

Broke down our camp in Porcupine Flat campground and went over to look at Crescent Arch on Daff Dome. Thought it would be the perfect finale to our week in the Meadows, done by Fred and Kor in the Sixties. Someone was on it, though, and my partner wasn't stoked. So we moved up to Lembert Dome and did Water Crack Right, 5.8, a wierd channel like stacked soapy dishes. Then moved over to Northwest Books, 5.9 layback variation, very fun. No pictures, sorry. Drove down to Lee Vining to gas up and stumbled into an outrageous free party with music by Blue Turtle Seduction. Crazy wild hippy dancing ensued. Bought the CD. Crashed in the RV Park. Next day drove down to Mammoth Lakes to catch a slide show, but were a year late. Bought some cool duds on sale at Mammoth Mountain gear shop. Drove home to Seattle all night.