carolyn

I often "forget" my own rope now days unless Im planning on leading.

When I bought my first rope I was asking one of my coworkers which one he thought would be best. His response.... For what? climbing? Dont you already climb with people who have a rope? Why do you need one? I thought it was funny and true. i bought one anyway so I could start becoming less dependant on others.

metolius harnesses have an adjustable rise. Any store with knowlegable staff should be able to fit you with measurements and the whole bizang in order to help you find the best fitting harness.

a place has been found. thanks!

My roommate is flying out to pdx in a few hours. He has a couple days to kill before his big trip up rainer but no place to stay (go figure he waits until the last minute to tell me this). ANyway, he is a great guy and could use a place to crash. For those of you that know me and might be able to help out that would be great. For those of you who dont know me well...time to take a risk! Send me a pm if you can help and I will pass the info onto him

"ass faced ignorant fuckhead" "flatulant pusbag"

Im with dru on that one! If the doorframe is decent, fingertip pullups are my favorite game. Good time to take advantages of some stretching

Too funny! (only because its too true) I liked the movie. Yes, most of the information I already knew or was already out in the press at one time or another. I think it was helpful for people like me who get confused/overwhelmed easily when reading all the news and stop following it. He put it all in a good time line that was easy to follow and understand. The movie made me a bit sick to my stomach at one point...and it wasnt from the footage shown. Fortunately just when I felt I had enough he added quite a bit of humor. I dont think I would want to see this again. Once was enough for me! I found it interesting that we had to go to three movie theatres before we found one that didnt have every show sold out in advance for Friday night . One, in the city. Two in the suburbs. The one we did get tickets to eventually sold out as well. Hell of a lot of folks in America are going to see this movie. The reactions and impact should be interesting.

Hey! Thats my dinner!

The other day I had an unexpected vacation from work. Turned out to be a perfect day - mid 70's , sunny, low humidity. Though I dont boulder much, I decided to break out my new pad and get a bit of air under my feet. Bouldering actually scares me a bit. Going solo, I wasnt sure how much I would get done before the fear took over. To my suprise I had a GREAT day! I successfully completed new and old problems. At times I felt challenged both mentally and physically, but not overly challenged or unsafe. Eventually I made it to a problem I had been working on since last year. Decided to give it a go. After several tries I figured out more effective movements and progressed. I was sooooooooo close and had to try it one more time. Totally psyched I KNEW I could do it.... And I DID! As I moved my hand to reach for a rock so I could fully stand at the top the other hand slipped off and there I went. . About ten feet down I landed on my feet, then my butt in the mud (yup, missed the pad). In total shock, I looked at my ankles, legs, arms...no bones sticking out or deformed. Thank GOd!!!! Painful? not so much. In fact I thought about giving it another try. I was soooooooooo pissed....because I DID it, but....what the hell happened when I got to the top?!?!?! Oh well...I wiped myself off and headed toward the car. I needed a smoke and I was out. After stopping at the gas station I get back in the car and felt an excruciating sharp pain travel from my knee down to my anke. An hour away from home I sped like lightening. It hurt soooo fuckin bad!!!!! Of course it was rush hour. As soon as I get in the city traffic is at a dead stop. I look down at my leg and the top of the fibula(?) next to my knee is about the size of a 1.5 golf balls. AAAAHHHHHH!!!! What did I do? Lots of RICE and beer the first night. I dont have insurance so I dont want to go to the ER without seeing of it gets better on its own first. THe next afternoon, I was able to get an appointment at a low cost clinic with a sports med dr. VERY LUCKY. From the person in registration all the way to the nurses, people commented on what a good dr I was seeing and how lucky I was. Shit! I feel stupid wasting his time, cause Im sure its just a bruised bone. The dr looked at my leg and said, "I would place bets you broke the top of your fibula. Lets do some xrays to confirm it". NOOOOO! If it was broken I couldnt walk, right? Wrong. If it was broken it would be more swollen, right? Wrong. Fuck!!!!! during the xrays the technician told me what a good dr I had and how he was really never wrong. Grrrrrrrrrr....That helped ease my mind. Well, the xrays came back and NOTHING was broken!!!!! Hell ya! The dr was so suprised he had me go back and get a second set. STILL NO broken bone! WOoooohooo! He stated that he has worked with athletes for over 20yrs and he is hardly ever wrong. Tho he was obviuosly very happy he was. So we dont know for sure what is wrong with the leg. Stress on the ligaments for sure...a sprain? Possibly tore a tendon (NOT GOOD), but wont know unless it doesnt start healing. We will go from there if that is the case. SO, yes it is a little frustrating because Ive only been back a few weeks after a month off for a finger injury. BUT...I did the damn problem!!!!!!!!!! I had such a great day!!!!!!!!1 ANd...my leg is NOT broken!!!!!!!!! LIFE IS GOOD! (now to go take another percocet) - just kidding!

Pistons are kicking Laker ASS!

Im in Minneapolis. Who are you working for? You will LOVE the boundary waters. I dont know anyone who doesnt. Its so beautiful and peaceful. Are you going to be based out of Ely or Grand Marais? I will give you mileage/travel time from the twin cities to various climbing areas. Hopefully that will help give you an idea. If you need more specific directions. route reccomendations, etc let me know *North Shore (both inland/on the shore-trad and tr)....3.5 hrs max. ! hr from Duluth *Quarry (DUluth)...2-2.5hrs *Taylors Falls (trad/tr/bouldering)....45-60 minutes *Red Wing (sport/limited trad/limited bouldering)...1hr *Willow (hard ass sport)....1hr *Devils Lake (trad, bouldering)...5hrs *Sandstone (tr/trad/dt)...2 hrs Drop me a line if you have any free time and I would be happy to meet up with ya (i have gear). My schedule is fairly flexible during the week if I know a bit in advance. Weekends are usually free as well. Most important...DONT FORGET THE BUG JUICE...LOTS OF IT! -carolyn

Wooohooo Pistons!

Im sure if you met me you would make an exception. Joshk, that is quite a generalization dont you think? I would be curious to see some research done on the subject. What defines "lower class" and Do they REALLY smoke more than those in the "middle" and "Upper" class? Foraker, I agree. If you are going to smoke I think its only curteous to not litter. I once pulled up next to someone at a light who did this and offered them my ashtray. They were pissed and just rolled up their window. Anyway, all this judgement about smokers/non-smokers again is beside the point of the ban. Its time for me to go have a smoke and then head out for some climbing

Well here is my take on it. I do smoke. Ive also been bartending at a nightclub for ten years (one which is notorious for being smokey). The proposed ban is specifically to protect workers, not so much the customer. Basically it covers any work place, even if someone works at home. The focus has been on the restaurant and bar industry because it seems they will be affected the most (either positive or negative). Personally, I think the ban is wrong. I choose to work in the nightclub. I cant think of anyone working there who was 'forced' to either by another person or the lack of being able to get another job. I believe one of two things will happen where I work.... 1.we will lose business on regular dance nights. Concert nights probably wont be affected TOO much. I will get sick of the complaints, tho. If we lose anymore business this place WILL close. Its been around 25 yrs...10yrs under a different name before that. Its a legend in the city. 2.We wont be able to control whether people smoke or not (keep in mind this is a good size venue). As a smoker, who rarely goes out to the bars anyway I think I would rather just sit at home with a few friends where I CAN smoke while I have a few beers. Until I make the decision and effort to quit it WILL affect my choice to go out. In regards to restaurants, I agree and have no problem with a smoking ban. I can respect folks not wanting inhale smokes along with there burgers. I think most folks at the forum...and in general agree that there is a big difference between a restaurant and bar. I guess what I wonder is if people are so concerned about the 'right to breath clean air', why are there sidewalk cafes along streets where cars and buses go by? I would take cig smoke over exhaust fumes anyday! OR if the concern has to do with the rights of not "harming" others health in general, then maybe we should start policing the bathrooms to make sure everyone washes their hands. Its really gross when you think about the amount of money I have to exchange while I bartend from all of the customers who are drunk, take a piss and stumble out of the bathroom without even looking at the sink. How about the fact that someone can carry a gun into the place where I chose to eat? I just dont think the government has the right. Unfortunately, as stated earlier by someone...they have the authority. I found some interesting links...dont know how reliable any of them are..There is one listing the affects of the ban on bars in various states. I know the ones listed in Duluth, MN are accurate. list of bars affected in country links to numerous articles/posts on topic BTW...thanks for posting that article arlen.

cracked- whether you think smoking is gross or not is beside the point.

No, we are not talking statewide. Yes, it would affect the businesses financially. I havent looked for the study, but there was one recently done in NYC specifically designed toward the smoking ban. I cant remember the percentage exactly...something like 20% less business. For some establishments this would mean an end to their business.

Im actually awake this late in the evening and in ChAt! (iN CASE ANyone was wondering)

Here in Minnesota a lot of cities are reviewing the idea and passing smoking bans in restaurants and bars. St Paul and Minneapolis are next up to bat. Earlier this week I attended an open public forum on the subject. To my suprise more people attended in support of NOT having the ban. I have to wonder with so many people who support the ban, where were they? Here are some comments/arguments from the forum.... *Obviously it could hurt businesses (especially the bars). It would be just as easy for folks to drive to another town and have a drink where they can smoke. The financial aspect could be devestating to a number of businesses. *Folks hitting the neighborhood bars will have to step outside for their cig. Having people loitering on the sidewalks will be disruptive to the people who live in the area. *If someone refuses to put out a cig should the bartender/waitress call 911? Are the police REALLY going to come and ticket the person? If so, wouldnt it be a better idea to have the police out patrolling the streets? *How can you make a legal substance illegal on PRIVATE property? Government has no right to interfere with something like this. *It is a person's CHOICE to enter a bar/restaurant where they may be exposed to second hand smoke. It is also the owners right to choose to make their establishment nonsmoking if they feel that is what their clientelle wants. *Tho an employee should have the right to breath "clean" air, for the most part it IS their choice to work in an environment where they may breath second hand smoke. Every job has its hazzards. Its your choice to decide which hazzards are acceptable to you and which are not. *(One of my favorites, tho I dont know how true it is)...The first place they banned smoking in private establishments was in Nazi, Germany. Just curious what other people think about the subject, as statewide and city bans have taken place in other areas of the country. *

Ya, thanks mike! Thats pretty much what I was thinking. I think a bit of your attitude and eagerness has rubbed off on me! Dru- Yes, I did feel an extra bit of accomplishment I suppose, despite the nay-sayers. Kind of a bonus Good point about learning to deal with sandbagging. I guess the most frustrating part of it all was how I interpreted it....ie/"Im not a 'seasoned' leader in their mind probly meant I didnt know much about leading and possibly even climbing. For all they know I could have been climbing for 10 yrs...I could be climbing .12/.13's....I could be an 'unseasoned' .10 trad leader. I was fully aware of the runnout. I appreciated the reminder. I didnt appreciate them telling me I shouldnt be doing the climb. I used to ask people for beta on every climb I'd try. Over the past year I have been steering away from it quite a bit because I find I actually do better knowing nothing about the climb. My final reminder was in Jtree. I asked someone about a lead I was going to try at some point. They told me there was a spot where everyone's foot always slips. Every foot placement was terrifying (was this the spot?!?!?!). Wonder how different the climb wuold have been if I didnt have that information. (it was still a great climb tho! ) Hey, ya! That photo that dru posted....if you ever come accross that climb....DONT EVEN TRY IT! Very few folks have been successful w/o permanant injury or losing a part of their body. good reminder dru!

one thing I have been working on is not letting how other people climb or what other people say about a climb affect MY abilities. I cant tell you how many times someone of equal or greater ability than me struggles on a climb and my thoughts go to, "if they cant do it, I sure in hell cant either". Or someone gives me beta on a climb and I start hyperfocusing on that "one" move they are talking about. Well, I have definately seen some marked changes in my mindset over the past couple months. This situation is both a rant and a rave. Hopefully it will also remind people to be aware of the conversations they are having around other climbers. Yesterday was my first day climbing after a month off from a finger injury (not to mention the 28 days of rain we had ). I went to a local sport crag with my roommate. Not super familiar with the crag. My roommate doesnt lead or even climb much for that matter. For once I was the ropegun. I didnt have anyone else to "do things for me". This made me both nervous and excited. I was most definately psyched to finally prove to myself I didnt have to always rely on others knowledge/ability. So, the warm up climb I wanted was taken. Most everything was wet from all the rain. Choices were limited. I decided on a route harder than I would have prefered to start on. But what they heck! I knew I could do it. I was excited to lead a climb I knew nothing about, except the grade. And I wanted to keep it that way...until.... I am chalking up, dbl checking my belayer, studying the route, and these yahoos a couple feet away from me are talking about how half the bolts around here are shit. "I wouldnt want to take a fall on any of these bolts". Blah!Blah!Blah! Now I DO know enough about the area to know which bolts have recently been replaced, which climbs are dangerous, etc. I didnt appreciate their discussion so close to me and a bunch of other climbers. I stuck up for myself and politely asked them if they wouldnt mind taking a conversation like that further away from the rock where a number of people were leading or about to start. I made the mistake of telling them I am not the most seasoned leader yet and didnt need to hear things getting exaggerated like they were doing. They proceded to tell me that I shouldnt do the climb Im about to start on if Im not an experienced leader. Its a lot harder than it looks. "Ive seen REALLY good climbers deck on this route". Look at how far the second bolt is....blah, blah, blah. After much debate in my head, I said FUCK IT! Asked my belayer if he was ready. He was both a little nervous and psyched. I looked back at the guys who gave me the unwanted beta and saw them shaking their heads in disgust. I didnt struggle one bit on the climb. Clean, smooth, and efficient. It was a nice climb. Surely someone might hear this and think , "well they were just being honest and telling you something you needed to know for your own safety". Maybe. Somehow I think Unwanted and wanted beta can be put in a more constructive and less discouraging manner. And those guys....well I noticed some of them flailing on that same climb later in the day. Makes me wonder what their intentions really were. The rest of the day rocked!

Maybe a stupid question, but I noticed in the video from the last rescue, as well as this one, that there is a lot of snow blowing around. I imagine it is from the copter. Wouldnt this bother the climbers and affect their visibility? And ya, Gary...Altho interesting, I think it would bother me a bit knowing that my accident is the source of someones entertainment. hmmmmmmm

it was soooo close. I wanna know why shaq cant make a free throw if his life depended on it. And ya, the games were not accessible to those who do not have cable. Shit, with the amount of money I spent on beers and video games at the bar during the games I could have paid for a year of cable!

Were you guys in Leavenworth? Was there this weekend with a small crew. We were eating dinner at Gustov's yesterday after climbing and a group of about 5 or so guys came in and sat at the table behind us. One of the guys was a dead ringer for Marc Twight if it wasn't him. All in all a great weekend with great friends and excellent climbing. I would place bets it was him with scott backes and a few clients. I believe they did stuart over the weekend. It rained all weekend here...lots of movies and reading, along with watching the Timberwolves lose to the lakers.