klenke

If you conceive with your wife on the summit, will she then give birth to triplets?

Ch. 7 news said they have been rescued. Two climbers from Seattle. One may have a broken nose.

Has anyone ever noticed the condescending way Kerry points when he's giving a speech? I hate it. Grrrr. It's worse than Bush's tennis court back-and-forth head movements during speech phrases, which is bad itself.

I'm sure if snugtop comes to Pub Club she will be offered many free drinks. Have a blithesome birthday!

But Rad isn't smart enough to search through the forums.

..says the man with the hippy signature line.

Gore getting a speeding ticket in Oregon. Kennedy getting into trouble with the airlines. What's the democratic party coming to? If Gore had become President, he wouldn't have got that ticket. Loser.

Yeah, I don't think I'm going to spend $500 for the concurrent events I'm not at all interested in. I like your idea about Pacific Place or some similar venue.

Hey, thanks for the heads up. You da man. ...but $500?!!!...

Thanks for the TR. This is exactly what I was hoping to read: that the glacier crossings are okay. I was up on the final ridge to Austera in April but with ski boots on and no pro we didn't want to do the final "problem" to attain the true summit. I've been meaning to go back up there (maybe in one-day from the car) to get Austera once and for all. Can you describe in more detail the ridge crossing from the McAllister to the Klawatti Glacier? You say, "The moat around this notch was heinous, and it took some work to get through." What kind of climbing did you have to do? Would a rope or other gear be necessary (I would probably be solo)? Thanks.

Stanton, put it back in your pants.

I believe the North & Middle summits are within 5 feet of each other in height. The South Summit is definitely lower than the North & Middle even though it looks higher when viewed from the west ridge saddle (where the above photo was taken). Another pic or two...

Froze-to-Death Plateau vs. Avalanche Lake approaches: FtD Plateau approach is longer by a few miles. FtD Plateau is more scenic though. FtD Plateau is a pain in the ass to walk across due to many tedious small creek holes, rocks, and bogs. FtD Plateau is prone to winds (look for human-built rockwalls with which to camp behind) FtD Plateau is prone to thunderstorm rains & lightning FtD Plateau allows you to climb Tempest as a secondary or back-up FtD Plateau contains no bushwhacking (I've heard the Avalanche Lake approach has some but I haven't been that way so don't know for sure). The loss of elevation Matt is referring to is to get from FtD Plateau down to the saddle between Tempest and Granite. The traversing descent sucks ass but the drop is only about 300 vertical. This same suck ass should be expected for the long talus slope getting up to the saddle from the Avalanche Lake approach, so you takes your pick. Some distance on the FtD approach can be 86ed if you cut off the trail at the big cairn. Turning right (SE) here gets you up on the plateau w/o having to go all the way to the pass at the north end of it.

Alpinfaux: still painting...

Time for me to weigh in on the matter...

I concur with CBS, though I can remember incidences of women dressing provocatively at work (usually if they had a date after work, never because they were trying to impress me ).

I done made it all by my selfsome. cj100f: your comments are exactly what I was trying to convey in my purdy diagram.

Oh, sorry Scott, I forgot to warn you about the scary mutant marmot monster at the top. Just think if that thing started chewing on the summit rap anchor slings while you were using them. I remember seeing that bivy (actually, Sergio spotted it) you guys used on the west side of the summit blocks. That first rock climbing shot with the guy on top of the light gray blocks looks nothing like anything we climbed on. Where was that at? It looks like the rock for P1 getting off the glacier.

Josh: regarding your first paragraph: (the little arrow on the right designates our Trail Park Pass fees)

And yet, the Trail Park Pass is sooooo necessary.

I agree with Lowell. Besides, why are we naming an award after a man who hasn't even passed on yet? Can Fred win his namesake award, then? "And the winner of the Fred Beckey Award for 2009 for the fifth year in a row is.....FRED BECKEY! Congratulations to Fred!" I'm gonna be reeeeeall famous in climbing circles one day (if I'm not famous already ). Let's name an award after me now while I'm still young. That way, I can see all the people who measure up against me--people like Lowell, and Wayne, and Colin, and that guy who does nothing but sprays on this site all day (you know who you are), and that guy who works the Burger King down the street, and that guy who works the convenience store down the street, and that guy holding the cardboard sign on the corner, and that guy...

Quit being so elitist, Josh. Sure he trolls and runs. Don't a lot of us. Take a look at his six trolls. Every one of them sets forth an important social issue for us to discuss. Whether he participates thereafter has been up to him. Maybe he lurks afterward to read our commentary, maybe he doesn't. Every one of his six trolls is more important than 80% of the inane topics found in Spray. How can you call for the deletion of this thread and not those inane topics? What then is the point of Spray? In short, it's not pointless crap. You and I are pointless crap.

It's in spray. It's important. I say leave it.

It's my desire to do a big loop through the area--probably in fall: LoBox, Hibox, traverse around to Alta, thence over to Rampart Ridge, then Mt. Margaret, then the peak just east of Margaret then back to the car. I figure about 10 hours round-trip.

Here is an annotated view of the approach ridge. The pink route is Class 2/3 with only one notch to negotiate past (descend to tree on south side of notch). Snow angles are not a problem (at least with aluminum crampons). July 27, 2004.