klenke

Porter, your photo makes it look like we’re in a bowling alley. Here is the picture taken with my phone. Only 5 of us old timers showed up. And Tony bailed on us. Stale Toast. L to R: klenke, Olyclimber, MattP, ChrisW, AlpineK

I did two raps with a 50. But that doesn't mean it can't be done with a 30. You could even downclimb it, if you wanted. But who likes to downclimb loose Class 4 sh*t? Edit: now that I remember, on the second rap the rope was being restrained up above somehow. I tugged and tugged and almost brought down the whole mountain with the rope. If I had kept up at it, I might have removed enough mountain to take it off the Top 100 list.

What Pete said.

That man is possessed. Look at him.

Today was a good day for Seattle.

Translation: "Trust us. We're the government. We know what we're doing."

Well with that kind of logic I guess it makes sense...to you. How come no one has made reference parallels to those ridiculous toilets they put in Pioneer Square then removed? http//www.katu.com/home/video/4560662.html http://mynorthwest.com/?nid=189&sid=56505 A $10 Million shelter from the cold for Seattle's "finest" for four years. And by finest I'm not referring to the Seattle Police.

"its probably cheaper than the bathrooms in your house." Explain that one to me, Hoss.

Life would be great. Unless Cascadeclimbers were there. Then it would suck.

Other possibilities since I'm not clear on the criteria: Southwest Peak of Hozomeen Mountain East Peak of Fifes Peaks The Flagpole (Annapurna) Pole of Remoteness Assassin Spire Seahpo Peak ...Sherpa Balanced Rock ...The Dome in the crater of Mt. St. Helens

Ha ha ha....no.

First Ascent of the White Chick “White Chick” (Pk 5884 southeast of White Chuck Mountain) May 21, 2011 Personnel: Paul Klenke, Stefan Feller, Martin Shetter, and Fay Pullen (the token white chick). Stefan says he likes my trip reports because I always put in so much detail. Well for this report, I’m not gonna. Why? Becuase I’m a busy family man. Plus, I’m 40 now, so I’m old(er), and stupid(er), and out-of-shape®. Here are some views of White Chick, the rocky bump to the right of White Chuck: [img:center]http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/79240.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/96702.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/186265.jpg[/img] We met in Seattle at 4:45am, which is usually REM time for me, not RPM time. So motoring to the Park ‘n Ride was a catatonic affair. But there they were, the OTHERS, waiting for me, already there, already laughing about something. Anyway, Stefan drove to the “trailhead.” Well first he drove to the Darrington gas station (I know it well, as do you) so I could purchase an energy drink. What? Two for one? I’m all over that like crappy snow on a Cascades ski resort. Here is White Chick from the bridge over the river: [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/599x401xWChi01_fr_river_bridge_I_sm.JPG.pagespeed.ic.AsoHnu-gmb.jpg[/img] We started at 6:45 on the overgrown logging road at the head of Dan Creek (elevation 1970 ft). The first obstacle was Black Oak Creek where the bridge had either slumped and disappeared or had been removed. All that remains is a large rusted girder and very steep banks. The Black Oak Creek washout (the banks are steeper than they look): [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi03_Black_Oak_Cr_washout_I_sm.JPG[/img] After this creek that reminds me of a Soundgarden song, we walked the remaining three miles of mossy road eastward and upward. The annoying windfall decreased, but the annoying snow cover increased (plod plod plod). At 3400 feet we came to the end of the roadway at a spur ending in a regrowing clearcut. We avoided this wetness and arced around it through nice old growth (some big trees here). The old road: [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi04_old_logging_road_sm.JPG[/img] Stefan and I descended steep duff a couple of hundred vertical into the big gully beyond the last clearcut. But Martin and Fay pullened it and took the ridge upward paralleling the west side of the gully. They essentially got cliffed out while Stefan and I easily ascended the avalanche debris escalator to approximately 4000 ft. We only lost about 20 minutes waiting for them. A view of the big gully (my wife said the snow fooled her into thinking it was a white-water torrent): [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi05_the_big_gully_I_sm.JPG[/img] The cliffy west side of the gully at 4000 ft (Stefan's in this photo; he pulled his pants up just in time…): [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi09_north_side_of_gully_sm.JPG[/img] That mountain whose name I forget as seen from the big gully: [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi08_Forgotten_fr_gully34_sm.JPG[/img] I took off to break trail up and right from the gully, traversing more rightward than upward to avoid the likely cliffs obliquely abutting the gully. Since I’m old(er) and fat(ter), Stefan eventually caught up to me and finished the remainder of the slog up to the base of the rocks, which finally opened up to us at 5300 ft. [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi10_Stefan_at_5300_ft_sm.JPG[/img] A view of the northwest side of the summit rocks (this is about as good as the views got on this day): [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi11_at_5400_ft_sm.JPG[/img] I took a brief second shot at kicking steps before motorfoot stomped past me. We took a snowy gully rightward from the left side of the rocky corner until the gully headed at short cliffs. A steep 55-degree snow chute got us up over a minor spur to the next gully over. We took this adjacent gully up a tad then left up a straight “Triple Couloirs-esque” gully to very nearly its col looking over the East Face. The cornice at the col notch was too much to approach comfortably, so Stefan exited right to continue up through short trees and minor rocks. Looking down the straight gully from the notch: [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi22_final_gully_near_top_sm.JPG[/img] He got up to a rocky knoll a hundred or so yards from the summit and waited for me to catch up. He thought that belaying the final corniced ridge was the wise thing to do and I concurred. The climbing wouldn’t be technical but no one likes to do cornice tobogganing. The rocks abutting the cornice were wet and sloped and not conducive to walking over. Stefan took the lead up and I followed, dragging Martin and Fay’s second rope. [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi21_final_ridge_IV_sm.JPG[/img] I made it up and immediately planked the summit (there was photographic evidence but Stefan erroneously deleted it because of its poor quality—the photograph, not the plank move). Stefan struggling to belay the token white chick. She’s sooo heavy! [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi15_Stefan_at_top_III_sm.JPG[/img] Fay at the summit (in nice weather White Chuck Mountain would have been looming behind the white chick in this photo): [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi16_Fay_at_top_sm.JPG[/img] Martin: [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/599x401xWChi17_Martin_at_top_sm.JPG.pagespeed.ic.1rbJxq2NUE.jpg[/img] I placed a Fay Pullen Special at the summit and built a cairn. This cairn kept falling over. I must suck at building cairns. Paul (no we weren’t all sharing the same jacket): [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/600x450xWChi18_Paul_at_top_sm.JPG.pagespeed.ic.NJFZ1gBfzX.jpg[/img] It had taken 5.5 hours to get up. Approximately 4.5 miles and 4000 ft of gain. We had taken not a single break and I only took my pack off once to put a jacket on. That’s not bad. Maybe I’m not as out-of-shape-and-fat-and-older as I thought. The token white chick in her element (w/o skis on!): [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi23_Fay_at_4200_ft_sm.JPG[/img] We returned the way we came, glissading the big gully (that went quick!). The road walk back seemed longer on the way out (but isn’t that always how it seems?). 9.5 hours round trip. Our route: [img:center] http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi01_fr_river_bridge_I_anno.JPG[/img] [img:center] http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi02_fr_river_bridge_II_anno.JPG[/img] Our GPS Track courtesy of Fay: [img:center] http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/White_Chick_Route_Fay_Pullen.JPG[/img] A comment on the weather, though it wasn’t bad (we were only blemished by light rain), remember that we had superb weather only the day before. And so it goes in Washington. Due to the weather, the conditions were cloudy and a white out most of the day. White Chuck Mountain made a brief appearance from the belay knoll and I took too long to photograph it. Drat! It would have shown the mountain from a previously unseen angle…if this truly was a first ascent. We think it was. Prove it if it wasn't. Epilogue So we’re at the car and Stefan breaks out a wrinkled dress shirt and suit and puts them on. Then he puts on a tie. Now, I’ve never seen him wear a tie before—and especially at a trailhead. This is most peculiar. He had said he had a memorial service to attend to in Ballard. Oooo-kay. Stefan in a “birthday” suit... In reality… He was just trying to throw me off (and he did). In reality there was a surprise 40th Birthday Party waiting for me back at the house. I opened the garage door with the opener as I’m backing my car in and the first things I see are a whole bunch of legs and then I realize for sure the thing I suspected might happen really is happening. I had a great time that night, so great in fact, that I did not go to bed until 4:00am—fully 24 hours after I got up. But I was only 39 years, 363 days old then. I’m 40 now and probably couldn’t handle that now. I am older, stupider, out-of-shaper, and weaker now. Gear Notes: Ice axe, safety rope for cornice adventures, suit and tie. Approach Notes: I don't know that this climb would be easier without snow. Steep duffy ground in the trees and then perhaps mossy rocks or steep heather higher up.

Sigh. Some things never change.

Please try to stay on topic, prole. Oh wait, this is Cascadeslimers. Nevermind.

This thread did make me wonder, cuz I never wondered before about it, what the penalty is, in general with your more common auctions, for making false bids that you have no intention of paying for should you win. I imagine at ordinary auctions, if you win a bid but then don't pay for the goods you just won, then A) said item gets put back in the auction hopper at the annoyance of those you outbid thus wasting their time, B) you are banned from bidding at that house and possibly other houses that catch wind of your act. Now for this particular bid this guy got busted for, it was a federal auction so I guess they have more stringent laws (the article didn't seem to note what law was actually broken, or did I miss something?).

Neither.

Today "snaffle" was the Webster's Word of the Day. Maybe Beckey coined snafflehound himself way back in the 16th Century. I'm still waiting for Webster's to feature "horsecock' for the Word of the Day. snaffle\SNAFF-ul\ verb : to obtain especially by devious or irregular means Jacob snaffled up the last cookie, leaving his sister none. "Started on Tyneside in the late 1930s, the chain has expanded by snaffling up other bakeries…." — From an article by Will Self in the New Statesman, December 13, 2010 "That snafflehound took off with my wind shirt and shorts over poly-pro last night in camp. That rat bastard." --Dru, aka G-spotter, August 30, 2010. The origins of "snaffle" are shrouded in mystery. What we know of its story begins in the 16th century — at that time, "snaffle" existed as both a noun referring to a simple bit for a horse's bridle and a verb meaning "to fit or equip with a snaffle" or "to restrain or check with or as if with a snaffle." The noun could be from an old German word for mouth, "snavel," but the connection has not been confirmed. The "obtain" meaning of the verb appeared in the early 18th century, and its origins are similarly elusive. A 1699 dictionary entered "snaffle" with the definition "a Highwayman that has got Booty" — that's a logical derivative of the verb, but it is also unconfirmed.

Alaskan Winter Ale: 'tis good. I've bought two sixers already. Funny about Chartreuse: my one-year-old got into the liquor cabinet yesterday. And what did he pull out? The Chartreuse. The boy's got a taste for specialty liquors, even if he's never tasted them. Some cabinet baby safety locks suck, by the way. If they are strong enough to keep my baby out they're strong enough to annoy me when I want to go in there. Why can't babies just learn the meaning of "no?"

And where, pray tell, do you think your needle pointed on the slacker-o-meter, Lucky Larry? 20 percent of the people do 80% of the work, and the rest just bitch about all of the "work" they are doing. That's my take on the old adage. I should know. I'm a sl-sll-sll-acker myself.

The Mariners' investment strategy seems to reflect mine: buy high, sell low. Rob Johnson's stock can only rise now if he hit just .191 last year. Or he'll be out of the game (liquidated, so to speak) in a couple of years. Too many balls got past that guy, whether he was holding a bat or wearing a glove.

Holy shit, j_b! For a "man of the people" you sure do vomit out a lot of vitriol (but you're not the only one). Every time you call someone a fuckwit or any other curse words, you're really just degrading yourself and the strength that your opinion might otherwise have, which is too bad, because I really would like to give you the benefit of the doubt in many instances. Rise above. In character, rise above the taunting or coercion to curse from those that stand on the other side of the political fence. Let them degrade themselves; don't degrade yourself. For all your differences with "your evil homonym," he at least does not resort to foul language to get his point across (not that I've ever seen, anyway). PS I'm a moderate. PPS Unlike a lot of you folks that hang out all day in Spray (don't try to deny your addictions), I don't have time for Spray or even CC.com all day, and sometimes not at any time in a day. There was a time when I was around a lot, but not anymore. As such, I don't have time or desire to surf around Spray to find any of your previous discussions espousing your opinions. And so I might ask for it anew within the context of the thread at hand.

I'd like to know j_b's opinion on Mr. Chavez and the direction Venezuela is heading so we can have it here for the record. Instead of him saying a whole lot of nothing (about the subject at hand) in this thread, how about he says something of substance?

Where are your Dan Howittaboutthat split times, ChumpChaser?

Uh, doesn't this trip report belong in the Fake Climbing Forum? Who's going to be the first to send that overhung alcove with the gargantuan chockstone? I don't think any of us have hard enough cores. Better notify the girlie boys and boyish girlies over at RC.com. Ivan: Don't be jealous of my Fawn Peak FKT.

An aside: per usual CC.com custom, some folks have made irrelevant and unnecessary comments into this thread and therefore cluttered it. Sobo: We could care less about your day. May I suggest Facebook. ~~~~~~~~~~~ I'd say if you can follow 5.10 you should be okay with the rock climbing on the buttress. Although, if you're not used to lichen on rock, you may find the climbing disconcerting at times. One nice thing is the presence of snow patches and the snowfield on its upper portion indicates water would be available year-round. As for where it would be best to get on the buttress, it appears to me (based on the second-to-last pic above) that the south side of it next to the glacier would be variegated terrain: some loose ledges and gullies bracketed by rock steps and minor rock ribs. It would probably not be all that interesting but would go. You might have moat issues where the snow next to the glacier reaches high up on the rock wall. A more sporting route for a 5.10-capable climber might be to try to get on the buttress from its north side (see last picture above). But there is a cirque headwall (for the Wyeth Glacier) that makes getting up to that side a little more problematic. Maybe a good starting point would be near the two Y-shaped snowpathes at the extreme bottom edge of the photo. Per Beckey, the "North Face" has been climbed. It was first done by Dick Emerson and Walt Gove in July 1978. Their climb was actually on the buttress south of your proposed buttress. I know of no other climbs of the North Face so yours would likely be a first ascent of that buttress (strawman comment). You can provide your details to Beckey and he'll get you in the next edition of his guidebook. Then you'll be famous (in case you already aren't). Regarding marrying a lawyer: I won't hold that against you, even if I am an engineer, because I once dated one.