klenke

Can you be more specific with where your destination is? "McCallister Glacier" does not jog my memory bank(s). [ 10-14-2002, 04:33 PM: Message edited by: klenke ]

I think the judge gives you a choice now for breaking the 1987 Yokel Yodel Act: prison time or five straight hours of listening to John Tesh music instead. Most go for prison time, I hear. I wouldn't know myself. No siree.

Phil's climbing site link didn't work. Did you put it in wrong?

In looking strictly at those who died from falling, I bet more people die every year climbing unroped on terrain that looked manageable than those who are roped to an anchor, pro, etc. 4th class terrain would be a big culprit for a lot of these. Climber lets guard down for a second, slips, dies. Moderate slabs would also be high on the death list.

If someone gives you advice about a particular climb (whatever that advice might be, be it whether to solo or not or something else) on this website or wherever, here's what you should do: Go in to the kitchen. Grab the salt shaker and dump out one grain of salt into your palm. Walk back to place where info is located (at the computer terminal, perhaps), reread the info and then insert grain of salt on tongue. Close mouth and swallow. I find that climbers "generally" give information out responsibly. This usually means erring on the conservative side if you feel like you're a more capable climber and talking to a less capable climber. Since it is hard to know just where someone else is at skill-wise, climbers probably err on the conservative side anyway. [ 10-09-2002, 08:18 PM: Message edited by: klenke ]

Okay, I climbed Cannon Mountain this year from the Lake Stuart Trailhead by bearing directly toward the summit. This is more or less what Smoker is talking about. The terrain is pretty steep but otherwise not too bad. The principle difficulty would be getting up to the Lost World Plateau from Coney Lake due to cliffs and steep gullies. It took me somewhere around 5 hours to get to the summit from the car. From there it would be another hour (conservatively) to get to Prusik Pass. It's not far. Therefore, it would seem to me that getting to Prusik Pass would be simpler via Aasgard Pass. It may be farther via Aasgard but it would be 75% trail. (I have not been up the Snow Creek way, so have no comment there.) Not one lick of trail if you go the Cannon Mountain route. Note that the logging road that extends NE from the trailhead (what Smoker talked about?) is not quicker than bearing directly upslope from the car. Bearing directly upslope also avoids the burnt out area.

Elvis is dead?! Oh my god. All this time and I thought he had only left the building.

Yeah, like Cletus says: don't just memorize one card. Memorize two cards and you'll instantly see the problem. This "trick" has come up in cubicle circles at least twice before in my working lifetime. The display takes different forms but the trick is the same.

duplicate post deleted. [ 10-08-2002, 02:34 PM: Message edited by: klenke ]

Interesting to see Kyle Flick's name in the above thread link. Met the guy on Mt. Goode this year (he and his group were coming up fast behind us). Definitely a good climber, so whatever he has to say would probably be worth paying attention to.

Oh, I was referring to ALL the peaks on the Mt. Temple Ridge. Certainly, Prusik, Flake, Monument, and Boxtop could be done in a day.

"Can we do them all in 1 day?" Yeah, with a helicopter you can. [ 10-07-2002, 03:44 PM: Message edited by: klenke ]

Usually in my case when soloing a face, something that looks easy (4th class) from below turns out to be harder (5th class) once you're on it. You therefore have no escape but to continue climbing because it's easier to upclimb class 5 than downclimb it. Also, when I find myself in these predicaments (last time was last Saturday), I usually don't have a means with which to "break out the rope" and begin belayed travel, etc. I call it the "Cheating Death" thing and it seems like I do it 4 or 5 times a year. I'd like to get this number down to, oh, sayy 0 times per year.

I wouldn't worry about it. This site is doing fine, in my opinion, and will be around for years to come. Visitation will fluctuate with the seasons. I find the site both useful and entertaining. My initial reservations have dematerialized. What do you want, usefulness AND entertaiment, or something sterilize and boring such as, oh, say the Mountaineers Bulletin Board: http://www.eskimo.com/%7Epc22/CC/Bboard/wwwboard.html? Or something too complex and stringent like www.summitpost.com ?

I wouldn't worry about it. This site is doing fine, in my opinion, and will be around for years to come. Visitation will fluctuate with the seasons. I find the site both useful and entertaining. My initial reservations have dematerialized. What do you want, usefulness AND entertaiment, or something sterilize and boring such as, oh, say the Mountaineers Bulletin Board: http://www.eskimo.com/%7Epc22/CC/Bboard/wwwboard.html? Or something too complex and stringent like www.summitpost.com ?

After that dehydrated meal I had last Saturday night, I smooted all the way down to the car on Sunday.

Big Snagtooth has one of those despicable sling ladders on it. And it may have been despicable, but we still used it to climb up the summit block because we were lazy. I scrubbed my hands for a week, but I still couldn't get that despicable feeling off of them.

My favorite Jeff Smoot quote (from his Falcon Guide book "Climbing the Cascade Volcanoes"): "Mount McLoughlin is a relatively unknown volcano. Although it is the highest peak between Mount Shasta and South Sister and the sixth-highest peak in Oregon, its unassuming presence is largely ignored by climbers." Jeff must not have been to NE Oregon either, for McLoughlin is NOT even close to being sixth highest in the state. Then, if you're talking latitude between Shasta and South Sister, let's not forget Steens Mountain (9,733 ft) in SE Oregon.

Ah, come on! What about the Amazons? Did you come back with any phone numbers?

Two of us just climbed Jack (from Little Jack) this Saturday the day before stormy weather moved in. Fresh, new snow is likely on the mountain and it may stick around all the way to next summer. If you want more information, send me an email. ===Paul

As much as I despise them, did you not see a "sling ladder" coming down off the summit block? I have read a few trip reports that mentioned this. Both trip reports also mentioned they used a rope to get off the block.

Uh, to paraphrase E-rock above: ...... ...and more

I was able to see Pugh yesterday. There is absolutely no snow on west and south sides of Pugh Mountain or White Chuck Mountain. No need for an ice axe.

Perplexus: Snot rocks in Wirtz Basin. You got that right. Dew...Mountain Dew to be exact. About the register, there was one of those green cover rolled up registers in a few ziplock bags at the summit. It was a new register placed there on August 17, I believe. I was amazed just how many entries there already were in the thing (greater than one party per day). All I did was replace the register's cannister. About 3/4 of the way up the dihedral there was water seeping out from under the crack. This section (intermittent over 40 feet or so) was not as aesthetic because of the wetness (you had to concentrate on where you COULDN'T step), but the layback climbing was not compromised. I wouldn't say it was as hard as 5.8 though; maybe 5.5. It all depends on how confident you are with laybacks. For me, the scariest part was an unroped class 4 move before we even got to the slab. Of course, I didn't lead out on the mostly running belayed slab. Sergio would have to comment on that. Run outs were longer than usual, but it's a slab after all.

Did the Weigelt Route of the North Face today with Sergio. Good stuff though I wish it had gone on longer. All in all, quite a leisurely day. Note about Beckey's CAG sketch of Vesper's North Face: the ledge that leads from the notch over to the various routes IS NOT 100 feet below the notch but RIGHT AT the elevation of the notch. The ledge begins at class 2, then is class 3, then goes to class 4 to where it joins the Weigelt Route. We took this ledge and thus avoided the crevasse Pencil Pusher mentioned. In fact, if you take the ledge at this time of year, there is no need to take any ice gear (including ice-axe). Save the weight! On the way up the slab, I found the pencil for the register along with a few other loose entries. I brought along a metal pipe and PVC end caps. These now comprise the new summit register cannister.