klenke

I was going to climb Gannett this year from Elkhart trailhead in mid-June but there was too much snow still. That is, no one had yet made it to Titcomb Basin (usual camp area). No one had even got close. Titcomb basin is 15 miles in, more or less. So I went on a little snowshoe outing to a place called Photographer's Point, which is only 5 miles from the trailhead. I guess I would make sure as to conditions if it's early in the season for your intended trip. Surely, July should not pose a problem. There's an outdoor store in Pinedale, WY called "Great Outdoor Shop" that could provide useful information. They did for me when the Ranger Station was closed (I was there on a weekend). Their email is greatos@wyoming.com. Their phone is (307) 367-2440. [ 09-17-2002, 09:24 PM: Message edited by: klenke ]

I had this nightmare thought the other day: Me and a partner are doing a 5.9+ rock climb on a big vertical mountain--a rock climb that requires much protection. Halfway up, the two of us manage to accidentally drop the rope off the mountain (even worse if also chucking the pro off too). From our sorry position, we're too scared to free climb on and have no rope with which to rappel down. Worse yet, cell phone coverage is non-existent. Worse yet, both of us forgot to tell anyone where we were going. What would YOU do? All the more reason why it is important to tell at least one responsible person where you're going (as cheesy as it is to do at times).

What the hell is that green thing in the pika's ear? (Cannabis stalk?)

I had an unhappy experience with Pacific Rim Auto. My story was this: clutch went out on my Honda. Had PRA replace it but they forgot to replace the throw out bearing in the middle of the clutch assembly while they were at it (this is apparently standard procedure for those who KNOW what they're doing). So, about 200 miles later, this bearing fails and oil gets squirted all over the NEW clutch system, thus rendering it useless (kept slipping when torque applied; especially on uphill accelerating). I had to take car back to shop to get it fixed AGAIN...and warranty did not cover all costs for second go 'round at the shop. Another mechanic I later went to in Redmond verified for me that PRA sucks. Obviously, I have not been to PRA since, even though they're pretty close by my residence.

Duplicate post deleted. See below. [ 09-09-2002, 11:10 PM: Message edited by: klenke ]

Yep, that is Iceberg Lake. I have a great picture of it (unfortunately, just a print so can't send it). Incidentally, the total drop for the falls is at least 400 feet. Could be a great water ice climb, winter access permitting. The lake looks inaccessible and thus reminds me of Azure Lake at the head of Stettattle Creek in N. Cascades.

I don't like the STICKY feature. All it does is fill up the top of the page with threads I don't read, causing me to have to scroll down more than I used to. That's my two cents worth. But I bet my two cents match up with a lot of others' who use these forums.

Sounds like a good first proving ground for suction climbing. See http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=002875 [ 08-28-2002, 04:27 PM: Message edited by: klenke ]

Would that be two shoulder stands at the same time or at different times? If the former, it would be kind of hard to do with two people. Three people would work. I wonder if a three-person (triple) shoulder stand has ever happened in climbing history.

You could do it completely naked AND with ice tools, if you want. Although I don't know if I'd want to be swinging ice tools in the nude. I was up on Big Snagtooth on Monday. Could not see the Silver Star Glacier but for sure there's not much snow on the south and west side of Silver Star Mountain. When I climbed Silver Star in July of one year, I was able to downclimb Burgundy Col to the glacier without an ice axe (the deep-cut trench from traffic helped). From the col to the summit was not steep except for one section which traversed around the right side and then above a crevasse (the only one I remember seeing). [ 08-28-2002, 01:18 AM: Message edited by: klenke ]

Forget about finger jams and laybacks, the future is in suction climbing... http://dsc.discovery.com/news/briefs/20020826/gecko.html Routes which max out at 5.13 could be a thing of the past. "Like, dude, I just suctioned my way up the 5.18 'Gecko of the Gods'."

I got a better idea: don't.

I think I'm going to go climb some obscure mountain in the Cascades and stash a summit register. In the register I'm going to put: Stephen Mallory, June 30, 1745. Then I can claim to have seen the oldest register. The register will be made out of cured teak and will have a pewter cap.

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000346

Just got back from climbing Cannon Mountain, which is ENE of Mt. Stuart. Had a good look at the North Ridge of Stuart (BEFORE the forest fire smoke fugged everything everywhere). I can't specifically answer your gendarme question but it looked like the glaciers/snowfields were pretty receded. Looks like some slab traversing and/or morainal terrain might be necessary to get to the base of the ridge. As for the Cascadian Couloir, I climbed Stuart via this route way back in Sept. 1993. What I remember is almost going down the wrong couloir (the one next door to the east of Cascadian). I figured out my mistake before I dropped more than 100 vertical. Basically, once you come over the false east summit of Stuart, bear right directly downhill (don't traverse across toward Sherpa Pk.). Bearing right will lead to the Cascadian. Look for a long and thin black rock ridge crest atop a cliff on your right as you descend. It's an interesting crest that is quite prominent as you come up or go down the Cascadian.

Now, Mountain Man, answer my query: The Balanced Rock. Hmmm?

Here's some vertical for ya: ~8,500 vertical feet in 28 hours and won by a woman, no less: Home page: http://www.badwaterultra.com/ Results page: http://www.badwaterultra.com/2002webcast/2002results.html

14,000 vertical feet! You're on the wrong continent, buddy. You should be in the Himalaya.

There's been a couple of groups at least from the CC.com crowd that have been up it this year. See: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000346 This is in the North Cascades section of the website. Click on "The Climber's Wall", scroll down to "North Cascades", then click on this link. I made a bogus post to the relative thread to bring it back to page one. It's called "Go Get Goode". This is the same as the link above. ===Paul

Bogus post to get this thread back to the top of page one for an interested patron (a new Lurker): I climbed NE BUTT of GOODE July 6 of this year. The conditions of the climb now should be quite good. No snow should remain on the rock. However, the glacier below the buttress will be more crevassed. At this time of year, the best approach to the butt is probably from the extreme left side of the glacier. This puts you out of harms way of the falling seracs, which do fall regularly in the middle--especially with hot weather. There's currently a big ice debris field below the serac area. You probably found info in this thread concerning a snow bridge crossing of Bridge Creek below the mountain. It is doubtful it is still there. Not to worry, there are at least two logs that can be used to cross the creek in the trees before this point. Essentially, when the North Fork Bridge Creek Trail first encounters a new avalanche debris area, cut left toward the creek and search for a log to cross. We found one in an area where the creek ran through gravel bars.

420? Huh? Three numbers in a row: 9 4 2 Oh yeah, baby! And, look, only 8 more posts and my gumby condition gets diagnosed as CHRONIC. [ 08-12-2002, 06:34 PM: Message edited by: klenke ]

quote: Also, here's another funny one....Fred's only an "on belay" member...not yet qualified to be a rope lead![/QB]Actually, Fred is now a "LURKER". He doesn't even qualify as a WANKER yet. He should be given special status by the the CC.com moderators and be allowed to jump straight to CHIEF WANKER.

Dale: which is higher, the north or south summit of Greenwood? The two appear to be separated by a knife-edge ridge. The south summit would be easy to get to, the north summit I don't know.

mattp: I plan very much to tell Beckey all about his error. That error he has for the Northwest Rib of Dumbell is the most glaring one in CAG that I have come across. My Lord it's a drop-off around that corner. Class 3 scrambling? Ha! I have already emailed Beckey with a few other comments/revisions for his N. Cascades book. And I have a few more I've been procrastinating on sending him.

My opinion on the West Ridge of Thomson: a 5 out of 10. Not a long climb. Needed more pitches of the same kind of stuff to make it more worthwhile. That is, if the pitches are going to be no harder than 5.4, then I'd like more of them to make the long trek over to the mountain worth it. If your novice friend can follow (if only following) on 5.4 with a couple 5.6 spots, then it shouldn't be a problem. However, if your friend is short (i.e., maybe 5'4" or something), he/she may have trouble with some of it. As I recall, the trickiest part of the whole climb is the step off at the beginning of the first pitch in the notch. It's an awkward side-hill balance thing past a bulging rock (the wider your hips or the shorter you are, the harder to manage). The second pitch has loose stuff. There's a half-hoist move that I remember being the crux (5.4). The third pitch for us began with a 10-foot high step with small holds. The fourth pitch traversed across the top of easy slabs to another headwall (5.6 perhaps). The fifth pitch is class 3/4 to the summit up a small gully. There is one rappel (class 4 terrain) to get off the SE side. From there it's class 3 and class 2 downclimbing to get back to the basin. Be prepared for lots of scree/talus. If you send me a PM, I can send you a photo of the mountain showing approximately where the pitches are. =Paul [ 08-09-2002, 10:10 AM: Message edited by: klenke ]