klenke

Take two liters with; refill as necessary. From Snoqualmie Pass, the trail goes right past tiny Ridge Lake to get to the mountain. This lake most likely has a bustly outlet. This lake is about 20 minutes before Bumblebee Pass and 1 hour before the base of the rock climb. Alaska Lake is a ways down the hill from the trail (PCT), so getting water there would be out of the way. The basin south of Thomson's summit (note the correct spelling I'm using here) may or may not be free of snow. I climbed Thomson in mid-June of last year. There was still snow in the basin AND it was a low snow year.

Why do I get the feeling there's going to be an avatar of "Sasquatch" or "Bigfoot" on this website in the near future now? I should have known such a website as bfro.net would exist.

Just so long as the fellow wedding attendee who wants to climb with you is not the bride or groom, I think everything will be all right. Try a sea-stack out on the coast. Hint: at high tide the pitches are shorter. Where as at low tide the rope may suddenly not be long enough for the rappel.

Okay, so I'm trying to climb Dumbell and Greenwood Mountains yesterday (read: only dumbells attempt Dumbell solo) and instead get spanked by Dumbell for my efforts. Actually, I can hear Beckey laughing in my head as his "Southwest Route" description for Dumbell is wholly wrong. It's not class 3 scrambling to round the Northwest Rib but something nightmarishly worse. My questions are these: 1. Has anybody climbed Dumbell Mountain from the Phelps Creek side and by what route? 2. Has anyone climbed to the true (north) summit of Greenwood? From the Northwest Rib of Dumbell it was quite obvious the north summit of Greenwood is higher than the south (normal) summit. The two summits are connected by what looked like a wicked knife-edge. I'm wondering what a traverse of that knife-edge would entail. Thanks -- Paul

I recommend Horsecock.

To this thread I add speed...strumming, drumming, and humming...

I'm not going to bother reading some other TR's, but I will add what I remember to the climb (I climbed Baring on 8/10/97): At the trailhead a logging road almost parallels the Barclay Lake trail from the beginning. I took this road for a while until a semi-obvious trail (keep an eye out for it) cut right up the bank almost in a bee-line for the ridge crest. From there the climber's trail followed the crest for a while then eventually dropped to the south side of the ridge into a forested depression. I say depression because as I recall it wasn't quite a ravine or gully but definitely had a concavity to it. At about the middle of this concavity the trail climbs in short switchbacks practically straight up the forest slope where you eventually come upon a clearing that provides a view of the summit and the narrow talus basin west of the summit. Right of the summit massif will be an obvious notch. This notch will probably have snow leading up to it. This snow was steep and made for slow going for me because I lacked an ice-axe and the snow was hard. However, this snow should at least provide water--if not by run-off then by stove melting. Once at the notch, turn left and climb the short, steep slope (should be snow-free) that gradually levels off the closer to the summit you get. The other side of the notch is exposed (it will probably have a snow finger in it), so don't climb to the summit too far right of center...unless the rock climbing's good over yonder. The summit provides an excellent view. I believe 6,200 feet is an optimum photography elevation for the Cascades. Barclay Lake is also WAY DOWN THERE--PRACTICALLY STRAIGHT DOWN!!! If the weather's clear and the time of day is correct, the mountain will cast a huge shadow across the lake. It's not easy to get lost when you know the trail follows the ridge for a while. Just be sure to mark the point where the trail comes up from below to meet the ridge crest so you don't walk past it. There are no technical parts harder than class 2 before the snow slope leading to the notch. From the notch to the summit is class 3 then later class 2. A bivy spot near run-off from the aforementioned snow slope might be nice if you can find a non-talus flat spot. Don't know your climbing speed but it shouldn't take more than three hours to get to the basin (two hours with light pack).

Tread Tramp: I have attempted Jack Mountain from Little Jack and Jerri Lakes (Crater Mountain Approach). Jack is probably a little closer to the camp site for the former than the latter depending on where you camp. I camped before Little Jack for the first try and got stormed off. I camped at the saddle between the two peaks of Crater Mountain for the second try and got freshied off. It's quite a distance to go to get to Jack from this saddle. I'm thinking the next time I try it I'll do the North Ridge route in 2.5 days as a carry over to the south side. Probably more aesthetic, remote, and scenic than the bleary, steep south slope route. I could see doing it early next month if interested.

If you're truly as hot as your thumbnail picture then you can throw one in any time, Krazy 1. And if anyone complains, tell them Klenke sent you and that Capt. Caveman says it's okay.

By the way, Ed Viesturs probably worships Beckey too. And Why Ed Viesturs over Messner? Or why Viesturs over a guy named Jerzy Kukuczka (even though he's dead)? Viesturs is your go-to media guy (see thoughts concerning media in thread titled "What makes an experienced climber?"). That's the only reason people like us know about him unless we know him personally. However, I must say that I have a deep respect for Mr. Viesturs for what he has accmomplished. But Beckey has given us something more--something we can use on a regular basis for reliable information (well, mostly reliable and certainly better than anything you'd buy from Ira Spring). It's a gold mine and where would we Washington climbers be without him and his contributions. Last thing: Capt. Caveman knows Fred personally while I have only been in email correspondence with him.

Binaca or Bianca or whatever it is: I've got three letters for you: CAG. Once you understand the importance of these three letters and the books for which they refer, only then will you understand the importance of a man named Beckey. Do you even climb technical stuff in Washington? If you want lame-o trail stuff, buy Ira Spring. That's all from the Welkin for now.

Everyone has their nemesis mountain. Mine used to be Mt. Index before I finally dispatched it in May. It only took me 6 tries for the summit to finally succeed. Try 1 (Lake Serene route): underestimated size of mountain. That is, it's not an easy day hike. Try 2 (south side): logging road was churned up, cross-country not much better, did not make it to summit, weather partly cloudy anyway. Try 3 (Lake Serene route): tried taking a greenhorn up with me. He slow. Weather completely socked in. Bagged it about halfway. Try 4 (west side from Persis-Index traverse): got stuck on a ridge pinnacle. Bagged Index and did Persis instead. Try 5 (Lake Serene route): October climb. Wet rock from frost melt made climbing in hourglass gully impossible. Turned around. Try 6 (Lake Serene route): Went in early season while hourglass gully still covered in snow. It's easy with snow cover except for the east ridge getting back down to the lake. There are no other mountains in the Cascades for which I have failed more than twice. I have failed twice at Jack Mountain so I suppose that's my new nemesis.

I was over in the Star Peak/Courtney Peak/Oval Peak area last weekend. From Oval Peak I used someone's binoculars to spy the ridge between Hoodoo and Libby (aka Raven Ridge). The ridge traverse appeared to be relatively flat but steep and craggy on the west side. I suppose it is doable but I cannot say for sure. The WNW side of Hoodoo is steep but probably climbable. The summit hump of Hoodoo from the Hoodoo-Libby Ridge offers no barriers to advance. Last year from Martin Peak to the south of Mt. Bigelow I spied the other (south) side of Raven Ridge and it was more of the same: steep boulders and scree. If you're experienced at traveling this kind of terrain, I'm sure you'll find a way. I'd be interested to hear a trip report from you--especially concerning whether or not a traverse between Hoodoo and Libby is possible...or what kind of difficulties were encountered. --Paul

I seem to remember a hat rack up there at the lower saddle for hanging food on. At least it reminded me of a hat rack. I remember taking a nap at the saddle and waking up to find this snafu-hound perched on a rock a foot above my head peering down at me. If he'd had a runny nose... You probably know this but the Climber's Ranch is the place to stay at the foot of the mountain. Cost is $8 per night to stay in a shack. Good comraderie there...or people showing off with their climbing stories of how cool they are (read: how much of a loser YOU are). It depends on your frame of mind, I guess. Regarding cell phone usage: I was able to make a call from the summit (to see if I could), but there are so many people on the mountain all you have to do is shout for a rescue. Guides and Rangers galore. Wildlife: We actually did see a bear (a little one) on the approach from the Climber's Ranch. It wasn't interested in us. The volunteers at the Ranch told us to watch out for the bear and sure enough we saw it.

I once had a date with an ex-TV reporter and she said exactly what PLEXUS is saying, so I can back him up. She had quit that line of work after 8 years. She was apparently tired of the lack of intelligence in the media field.

Did not see very much snow in the Washington Pass area last Sunday. Can't say about an access gully though. Standard route on Kang Temp is fun but I'd probably do Big Kangaroo because it's the biggestest.

I'm sorry, I have version 3.0 of Delorme, not 2.0. I apparently can't read. Duh. I'm looking in to posting a pic here. I don't have my own URL so I may have to email the Luna Cirque Topo! map to you. I'll make a quick Topo! for you then send it.

I like Lizard Brain's pic on the first thread page. I got a good look at a lot of skeeters this week from about that close (through the net of my bivy sack). I was observing how they probe with their proboscises. I watched one search for a pore on my skin then insert with glee...until I sent him packing for skeeter heaven. (I actually find killing mosquitoes pleasurable because you really don't have to hit them hard; touching them usually suffices). However, it's such a useless affair for there's another 5 quadrillion waiting in the wings for their chance. This year seems to be an especially bad year for mosquitoes in Washington.

David, I have and use Delorme's version (Version 2.0) when my other Topo! doesn't cover the area I'm interested in (e.g., extreme NE Okanogan, east of Lake Chelan, out-of-Washington, etc.). I think Topo! was bought out by National Geographic. Or maybe it was another company. Although Delorme has some interesting features it does not compare to Topo! in detail. Topo! looks just like USGS maps and for me USGS maps represent the best possible (7.5" quadrangle I'm speaking of here). Beware that although Delorme has multiple zoom levels the level of detail does not improve. The most glaring deficiency here is the lack of cliffs showing up. USGS/Topo!/Green Trails basically always shows cliffs. Delorme will not. Nice features for Delorme: nationwide area, easily calculates distances on roads and trails and point-to-point, printing is easier than for Topo! (different scales possible), others I'm not remembering. Bad features for Delorme: lack of cliffs showing up, GUI layout problems, no way to back-up (erase backward) a route being created, topographical data missing at certain intermediate zoom levels, some crashing problems (especially after printing), others I'm not thinking of. The 3-D feature I have found to be useless from a climbing standpoint. It's interesting to toy with every once in a while but I find it does not provide me with much insight--not for a discerning climber anyway. So, have fun with it. It serves it's purpose and like any software has room for improvement. Perhaps you have a better (newer) version than me. --Paul

By the time us cascadeclimbers get done with your new spray site, Acadia will be the place to be in America! It'll be the shit, man!

Mark: actually, Kyes is comprised of old volcanic material--volcanic breccias to be exact. I suppose you climbed Blackcap via the ridge crest from the saddle on its ENE side. Though it was chossy, it was not difficult. The face to the left (south) was definitely loose. Monument's East Ridge (Beckey's first ascent route) was fun but loose. Some scary exposure for me while soloing. What proved most frightening was downclimbing an extremely steep gully some 1/2-mile SE of Monument to get off its prominent SE ridge to get over to Lake Mountain. I've said this before, but generally while soloing the easiest way up a big peak in the Cascades generally requires ascending via an access gully--gullies which are generally loose due to their eroded nature and what gets chucked into them from above. Folks endeavoring to climb the Top 100 in the state know all about this fact.

MountainMan, you wouldn't bring out a blue bag too, would you?

Yes, Gordon, you've got the right P. Klenke. I will confirm what you say about the rappelling off of Boston. The second rappel anchor was pretty iffy. I almost got the rope stuck pulling it down afterward (and I pulled some loose rocks down on me). MountainMan: did you happen to see a Volkswaggen Bug-sized rock on the snowfield below the east side? Well, the climbing was so loose that I knocked that big-friggin-rock (B.F.R.) onto the snow on the way up. Yes, sir, the East side of Fortress is pretty crappy. I was off route on the way up but came down a "better" way. Send me an email at klenke@attbi.com, and I'll send you a couple of annotated images of Fortress Mountain's east side. Perhaps they'll show you something you missed (or didn't miss). - - - Paul

Okay, I measured it out on my Topo software: Taking SR530: I-5 (Arlington) to Darrington = 32 miles Darrington to Rockport = 18 miles TOTAL = 50 miles Taking I-5 and SR20: I-5 (Arlington) to Burlington = 22 miles Burlington to Rockport = 38 miles TOTAL = 60 miles Based on the speed I drive, the I-5 (Arlington) to Burlington leg takes slightly more time to that of the Darrington to Rockport leg because both can be driven at 70+ mph. The Burlington to Rockport and Arlington to Darrington legs have the same general speed (and slow pokes) attributable to them, except I find I'm able to pass more on the latter. Plus, the latter is also six miles shorter. All in all, I would say going via Darrington saves me ~30 minutes round trip. And over the years that really adds up. It would be like an espresso punch card: drive the Darrington route 10 times and get a free hike. [ 07-17-2002, 06:16 PM: Message edited by: klenke ]

[ 07-17-2002, 06:14 PM: Message edited by: klenke ]