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klenke

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Everything posted by klenke

  1. Here's my attempt: "Only a geek or someone who was extremely bored or addicted to posting would post a new thread concerning the non-climbing-related word farinaceous on a climbing bulletin board." What do ya think? Yes, I'm an addicted too for even responding in this thread.
  2. The thing I like most about the Cascades: it has a namesake website called www.cascadeclimbers.com. The thing I hate most about the Cascades: it has a namesake website called www.cascadeclimbers.com. Where has my life got to since 07/03/01?
  3. There are no peaks in the world higher than Denali. All those Himalayan peaks are fake, made up in a vast right wing conspiracy to...Oh wait, that doesn't make sense either. Damn! Welcome, Shahid. Do you really know what you're getting into joining this site? If you're the real deal, you may be our first member from Pakistan. To this, I hoist a tall one:
  4. In reply to the slayer, that is precisely why we always have such a hard time deciding where to go up here in Seattle. There are SO MANY bars, it's hard to make a choice between what's good, what's bad, and what's worth finding out about. It's kind of like a long menu at a renowned restaurant: what to have, what to have (besides and and ). In Eugene, how many bars do you have? That is a college town, so there's got to be at least 10,000.
  5. Cap'n, did you make the summit of Morning Star or not? If you did go all the way, how would you grade the climb--especially the last bit which is apparently class 3. A few of us are debating doing it next weekend from the East, but we may do neighboring Lewis Peak via its NW Ridge instead.
  6. klenke

    Garfield

    Thanks, Bob; some good info and pics in there. You are correct about the site name.
  7. klenke

    Garfield

    Was reading Mr. Beckey's description of the North Route for the Main Peak of Garfield and was curious if any of you posters have been that way. Mr. B says it's a seldom used route. Since these always interest me to some degree, wondering what experiences some of you may have had. He says it's best done in early season when snow covers brush and fills the steep gully leading to the summit.
  8. Here's my contribution to Dave's quest, post No. 97. And just for the hell of it, I'm gonna use a post icon and a graemlin I've never used before. [Hmmm, I'm still not satisfied; better go with the old stand by: ]
  9. And probably 3/4 of what they teach you in the course we already know, thus wasting our money even more. I wonder how many times I've gone to training of some sort to "better myself" only to find I already know half of what they're teaching (or can come to understand it at a pace that is so much faster than they're teaching me, thus boring me even more).
  10. Can't join you but would be strongly interested to read what you discovered for your N. Face climb. Give us a short TR (particularly as they pertain to conditions) when you return.
  11. Which Queen Anne quaffing station is it that we're talking about? Or on what part of QA is it located if the name is forgotten?
  12. Three of us climbed the South Gully-South Spur route yesterday. We intended to climb the S. Rib route but wound up starting one gully too far east. This gully starts at about 4,100 ft. Sergio led the first few hundred feet of the snowy/icy gully (class 4 mixed climbing with some good stemming) until just before the gully narrowed at a overhanging boulder/chockstone at about 4,400 ft. I then took the lead and attempted to surmount this overhang, but could not do so due to conditions and my having crampons and a pack on (tight squeeze). A 45-degree ramp to the left (west) looked feasible, so I climbed up the 50 feet up to the top of this ramp (loose snow over slabby rock! Yikes!) but the ramp cliffed out on the left and became a class 5 wall on the right. I dared not do the necessary class 5.5-ish traverse with crampons on (no place to put the downhill foot). Then I looked over to the east and saw a semi-open timbered slope that would be a cake walk to get 200 feet higher up. So I bailed on the class 5 stuff and downclimbed uneasily back to the gully so we could get over to the timbered slope. I ascended the slope until it steepened whereupon I made for a big tree to make an anchor so I could fix my camera, which John had been using/toting at the time. From there, John led the rest of the way to the summits and beyond. The gully he started out in was the same gully that we had begun the climb in lower down. It's a good thing I was not able to get over the overhang in the gully to continue in it, because there was much harder climbing unseen in there. We basically circumvented the worst part of this gully by going out onto the timbered slope to the right. We saw plenty of rappel slings on the way up, so we must have been someplace commonly visited. Including about an hour wasting time routefinding near the overhang, the climb took 1 hour to get from car to gully mouth then four hours to the top. We parked at the hairpin turn in the chalet area directly below the S. Rib [by the Section 33 mark on the USGS map]. From the true summit, it was easy to get back to the Cave Ridge saddle. At each sub-summit impediment, we descended rightward (eastward) around it and climbed up the next available gully to the ridge crest. Do not go to the west side of the sub-summits. In two more hours we were at the Alpental parking lot and shortly after that we were at the lodge bar having a quaff. Sergio bummed a ride back to the car. On the way back, John was even so considerate as to bring for us to indulge in. All in all, it was an enjoyable outing, despite the fact we missed the South Rib. We saw tracks near the summit when we got there around 2:15PM. That must have been your tracks Fleblebleb.
  13. Cascadeclimber is correct. I was just on Guye yesterday and the photo with Dr. Death jumping is from someplace on Cave Ridge. In the background is the NNW Ridge of Guye.
  14. Okay, who's going to verify that the summit in question in this photo http://supertopo.com/rockclimbing/proslideshow.html?gid=11&n=12 is Gunsight Peak? Inquiring minds are curious.
  15. klenke

    chair peak

    Here's the NOAA weather forecast for Snoqualmie Pass on Saturday: SATURDAY...VERY STORMY... A STRONG CHANCE OF THUNDER, LIGHTNING, HIGH WINDS, EXTREME AVALANCHE CONDITIONS, AND HEAVY RAINS... SNOW LEVEL 7000 FEET...WITH UP TO 3 INCHES NEW LIQUID PRECIPITATION. AFTERNOON PASS TEMPERATURES 50 TO 55. WIND IN THE PASSES AND FOOTHILLS EAST 45 TO 55 MPH. STAY AWAY AT ALL COSTS. CLIMBERS SHOULD GO TO EXIT 38 INSTEAD.
  16. I like the Das Booty image 17.jpg. I'd have that look on my face too if the guy next to me was blowing a trumpet in my ear.
  17. I guess you're no longer in the catbird seat. Nope. Now you're just in the trombone seat.
  18. Yes, welcome. You could start your own
  19. I still say you call the ranger station in Cle Elum. Here's the number: (509) 674-4411 In my mapbook, the road to Ingalls trailhead is no. 9737 (North Fork Teanaway River). It is likely you won't get much past Beverly Campground, which is about 5 miles before the Ingalls trailhead. N by NW is right about the slednecks on that road. I once got my car stuck in the snow there. A few of them motored by, gave us dirty glares, and kept on going. No stopping to help the automobile driver in distress. We got out eventually. We weren't too far from where the dirt turned to packed snow.
  20. Hey, Fred wears the same rock shoes as I do. He's taking after me, I see. Man does that make me feel special.
  21. Dude, call the ranger station over there by Cle Elum. They'd know. Ingalls Pass trailhead is over 4,000 ft, so you probably will not be able to drive all the way up Teanaway Road.
  22. I dislike the tacked posts too, but I have trained my eyes to read directly below them. Perhaps as a compromise, it would be nice if there was a horizontal space maybe about the height of a regular thread header between the tacked and the regular threads. This space should be made a dark color to easily separate the two.
  23. klenke

    Mt. Persis

    Too many logs come rollin' out on that road destined to be reduced to pulp or sawed into siding. Aint no way that road would not get fixed! The last time I drove down to Lake Cavanaugh there were two loaded logging trucks parked on the side of the road. The drivers were having lunch, I guess.
  24. Definitely quick to go right up Colonial Creek from the road. Benefit for camping on East Ridge of Pyramid would be the ability to view the route from a roughly horizontal eye-angle as opposed to from below. You can plot/see the route from camp, then aim directly for it the next day. Binoculars would be handy. I would estimate one hour to get to base of Colonial from the East Ridge of Pyramid. Camp on the ridge is roughly 5,400 ft.
  25. Was up doing Snowfield Peak on December 1. Seems like it would be quite feasible to get to the base of Watusi Rodeo by way of the Pyramid Lake/Pyramid Peak Trail. You can camp on the East Ridge of Pyramid then contour around the head of Colonial Creek to get to Colonial the next morning. Might be a slight problem crossing Colonial Creek (contour too high and it's a waterfall).
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