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Everything posted by klenke
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The airy shit these guys did back then sans ropes would make most of us overly-protected climbers of today look like complete wussies. They probably wouldn't even fart in our general direction.
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The picture labeled "P1010066.jpg" is the one of Booker I was talking about. Or at least Booker is in the middle-background of that photo (with Mt. Buckner in the right-background). This is photo #62 of 87 when stepping through the album (at least when I step through it).
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D-dog, Look here in David Parker's Goode photo album: http://www.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=67b0de21b301e9a7c4d5 The picture he posted above is #51 of 87 in the album. There is a better picture for ascertaining the verticality of the wall (#62). This picture more definitively shows that it's not vertical. We wouldn't want to have to rename the face "D-dog's Folly". [ 06-27-2002, 03:34 PM: Message edited by: klenke ]
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Thanks, Kevin. I found it. I've been out of town for a while. I'm not sure what's been posting lately on the site.
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Stefan: David says above that he came down the SW Couloir which is on the other end of the mountain from the Bedayn Couloir. I've heard the Bedayn is a payn to downclimb (loose rock). David: your pictures look good and have nearly cemented my plans for doing it next week (Gods of Weather willing).
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Here is a list (as determined by one Stephen Fry) regarding the steepest faces in Washington (for 1/10th-mile horizontal distance): 1. Mt. Index, West Face [2,150-foot drop] 2. Baring Mtn, NNE Face [2,000-foot drop] 3. Mt. Index, ENE Face [2,000-foot drop] . . 11. Booker Mtn, NE Face [1,660-foot drop] In terms of 1-mile horizontal distance: 1. Davis Peak (N. Casc.), NE Face [5,381-foot drop] 2. Whitehorse Mtn., NNE Face [5,185-foot drop] 3. Johannesburg Mtn., N Face [5,160-foot drop] . . . . 19. Booker Mtn., NE Face [4,660-foot drop] The height of the face is sort of dependent on the horizontal measuring endpoints. Still, though, Booker has quite a wall on its NE side as David's picture shows. Davis Peak listed above has one of the most impressive walls that I can remember. It's located in the N. Cascades north of the Diablo Dam. While the peak can be seen from the highway, the NE Face cannot. You have to climb Stetattle Ridge to see that.
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Looking at planning a multi-day trip for next week in the area of Mt. Goode to climb it's NE Buttress and then Stormking and perhaps Mt. Logan too. I was wondering if anyone out there has done the NE Buttress of Goode yet this year. The rock is probably bare, but I'm mostly wondering about snowcover and how it may affect access to the area. Thanks if anyone has any recent beta.
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...snort...snuffle....snort snort...[did I just see Dru in my dream? Nah, couldn't have been.]...
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...and so on and so on and so on and so on and so on and so on and so on and so on and so on and so on and so on and so on and so on.......right on down the line.
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It doesn't really matter what the subject matter is: young people are generally more liberal than older people. The older one gets the more conservative one gets. When the 20-something crowd gets to be Dennis' age, they'll probably be as "conservative" as he is now. Meanwhile people of Dennis' generation will be too old to care (or perhaps will have already shuffled up the Grand Tallus Field to that Great Climbing Wall in the Sky). There will always be points of contention between the old and young: "Son, when I was your age, we didn't have GoreTex. When it rained, our underwear got wet. So quit complaining about the humidity!" And so on and so on.
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Rockrat #16, You could always try climbing barefoot (after all, Rockrat #1 doesn't wear boots). Then when your feet get calloused enough they'll be so tough not even a needle could penetrate them. Or maybe a foot massage before every climb would help. At least that would be a good excuse for getting one from your beau for free no questions asked. Afterall, it behooves him too since he won't have to wait for you while you apply the various salves at switchback #156. ---Paul
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That root crossing is rated L8. If you had bushwhacked down the river for 150 yards (BW5 rating), you would have come upon the L3 crossing. Up the river about 300 yards (at BW3 bushwhack rating) is the little-known gnarly L11 rope-swing crossing. This is my personal favorite. Also, I've personally never seen an L12. I'm also willing to admit I once fell in on an L2 (but it wasn't my fault; a bee was buzzing in my ear at the time).
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Peak in the background looks like Redoubt so I'm going to say the mountain of interest is Bear Mountain (west or WSW side). It's the other side of Bear which has that really really steep wall (one of the steepest in the Cascades). Peak is just under 8,000 ft high.
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A little discussion about this occurred a few months back. See... http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=002002
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Looks like the road's open as of May 7. This WSDOT website contains all the answers: http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/regions/NorthCentral/Maint/Area3/nc2002/default.htm
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It's awfully hard to make suggestions at this time of year not knowing just what is accessible and what's not--especially for beginners. However, I can tell you about the trail to Lake Serene by Mt. Index since I was up there last weekend to climb the mountain. Right now the lake is quite picturesque (isn't it always?) all covered in snow. If your bro has never seen a very steep Washington precipice, then the Mt. Index walls above the lake would be worth it. Regarding trail conditions, there's snow starting at about 2,300 ft about 1/2-mile before the lake outlet. The bare trail is in great condition. That which is snow covered is easily traversed. It would take 3 hours on the outside to get to the lake (if he's really pokey).
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Hey don't give up on the weather for this weekend just yet. Actually, if it's sucky, you should take him out in it anyway so he can experience what Washington climbing is really like most of the time. Either way, good weather or bad, you'd be doing your part to perpetuate the myth of Washington, whatever that is.
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Never confuse talented Led Zeppelin with untalented Mounties.
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"Conflageration"? Conflagration? -- a fire with low fuel burning rate (as opposed to a detonation).
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Are you there in John Day for only the next couple of weeks for Boot Camp or there indefinitely throughout the summer?
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Another CC.comer was asking about Eastern Oregon a couple of weeks ago. See... http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=002188 There's also the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument west of John Day. Interesting area, though I've only seen it from the road. The John Day River along Hwy-19 around the towns of Kimberly and Spray (perfect town for this website?) is also quite a pleasing eyeful.
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I second Strawberry Mountain. The mountain is quite picturesque and is right by John Day. Only the distant views are lacking but when you're 9,000 feet up, who cares. When I did the climb I did a clockwise loop starting at Strawberry Campground (el. 5,800'), getting to moderately pretty Strawberry Lake in about a mile of pleasant semi-open forest, then going past Strawberry Falls, then up to the mountain itself. The terrain is very nice below the summit itself, though a recent burn has blackened some trees. I then went down via the Onion Creek Trail. Here there was even more charring and it was hella hot, but that was August. Onion Creek Trail provides additional views of the mountain from open meadows which seem more wilderness-like than that of the main trail. The trail comes out on the same road that leads to the campground. From there, it is about a mile and 800 feet of gain to get back to the campground (car). 5 hours round trip (maybe 9 miles). A good day trip for one coming out of John Day. There could be a little snow at the summit but it's not really steep so no technical gear needed.
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I plan on doing the climb around the end of June, if that matters in terms of snow cover.
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Anybody out there climbed Rock Creek Butte west of Baker City, Oregon? I'm looking at climbing it either via Pine Creek Reservoir Trail from the northeast or via Rock Creek Trail from the northwest. Which is faster, more enjoyable, etc.? If I have time I may traverse the ridge over to Elkhorn Peak too. Is this traverse easily done or is it frought with danger? Thanks.
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Steamer must be Larry the Tool's son...or at least something else from him.
