genepires

In america, the police would be too afraid to go that far for someone thought to have guns, shoot monsters and be a member of NRA. NRA lawyers would have been all up the police's face. Canadian common folk are too nice to try and stop such stupidity.

Agreed that the formula is not accurate for everyone. Just a place to start. Did you find yours being hooked up to monitors on a treadmill or did you figure it out yourself on a track or something? genetics plays more into MHR than training? (my new excuse) what is OBLA?

the classic formula is 220 - age = max HR. If she is 30, her max HR would be 190. Training could bump this up too. even with that, 158/190 = 83% which is fairly high for 60 min.

yes I am out of shape if that is the definition of being in shape. For my age and the usual equation for max HR, 158BPM is 90% of my max and an hour of that will wear me out. Pardon me for being weak. No one said they couldn't use their muscles after such a round of whatever you want to call it. But it is definitely not a good condition to be in for more training. Especially hypertrophy or power. There is not much consensus in the training world on how to do things but conditioning after heavy work is pretty much universal. Even the crazy folks at crossfit seem to follow this idea. I wouldn't know about throwing up during cardio as I have never done it (the throwing up part or the hour of 90% MHR), but I think that getting to the point to throw up is beyond simple cardio and into anerobic and possibly due to the extreme amounts of lactic acid buildup in addition to hormones, CNS, and other factors. I am not even sure if cardio has to be aerobic. Cardio is about strengthening the heart and possibly about flushing out the arteries and veins and such. I think cardio work is also about training the energy creation methods to be more efficient at making energy. Usually measured in how much the heart beats/min. Aerobic and anaerobic is about which energy system is providing the chemicals needed to move muscles. (ATP production?) Does it need oxygen or not? You can have anaerobic training methods that raise the heart rate and be called cardio. Tabata protocols and other intervals would be mainly anearobic and still cardio work. If I remember right, a classic cardio exercise starts with ATP being used from the cells stored supply. Once that is gone (after a couple minutes?), there is something else kicking in but it is short too. Aerobic kicks in (mitochondrial) and can hold things up for a long time but when the work becomes too tough, anaerobic adds to the production for the deficit. this causes lactic acid to build up and eventually end the activity. Been a long time since I read about these things so I am prolly wrong in some degree. (eyes glazing over yet?)

60 minutes @ 158 on the stairs made you throw up and use all of your glycogen? Maybe you're doing it wrong 158 BPM is around 75% to 80% of max HR. It would not be surprising to use up all of the blood and liver glycogen stores with 60 minutes of that. If I remember it right, cellular glycogen stores (or equivalent) would be used up in a couple minutes, blood glycogen used up in 12 minutes or so and the liver has about a hours worth. There is another storage place but I forget where that is. Besides after that, hormones are shot, central nervous system is taxed and everything else is going to shite anyway.

it could be hot or not in july for leavenworth. I have had some very pleasant days in august and july and also some scorchers. Most of the crags face south but pearly gates faces north for those hot days. If it is really too hot, hit the pearly gates and maybe something within your abilities on snow creek wall. You can also go hike into colchuck lake for some stunning views with easy scrambles if you like. The hike up to asguard pass and to summit of dragontail peak, as well as the snow climb up to colchuck peak are reasonable one day ventures. from leavenworth, you can drive south to meet up with i90 near cle elum I believe. Another hot day suggestion would be to hike into ingals pk but that would really be better as a overnighter. It could be done as a day trip but I don't know how long that would take. SOmeone help with that idea?

Now now John, different goals for different people. (listen to me being a hypocrite, 90L packs and ice screw soloing out of crevasses) Princess Wook, just curious as I am trying to create a base fitness plan for myself that is YMCA gym based that I would do in addition to a day or two in a rock gym getting ready for the spring summer fun. From what I see at face value, PW is working hypertrophy and John is working power endurance and such.

sounds like a good shdr workout wookie. Do you hit this once a week or more? What does the rest of the week look like? a split routine?

is this an improvement? it sounds like an improvement in the condition. If I took my dogs and my 4 yo on a 2.5 mile walk, it would take 4 hours.

Wow, great idea Dan! Thanks, Dan, I sure thought so. Wow, great idea Dan! Thanks, Dan, I sure thought so.

gear critic = gear forum You are obviously missing the point of the previous conversation. I didn't criticize anyone for asking about backpacks in newbie forum. I was explaining why people where giving this guy advice about his possible poor gear choice instead of his desired original question. Posting in newbie assumes that the poster is a newbie and therefore people where trying to help out the newbie. He comes back with all the attitude about him not being a newbie and not wanting this kind of advice. Free yourself from your emotions, read it all again and you will see. Not sure why you are jumping my shite so much. I spent good time writing responses for you and I thought I gave you good advice on that topic. excuse me if I have an opinion about newbies soloing glaciers. I guess I am not allowed to speak at the risk of offending one in a million. If I am out of line, feel free to complain to a moderator and have me removed from here.

next generation of devices will be linked with a heart rate monitor and when the HR falls below some minimum, will auto send help message. Just making it up but it is possible.

why not just flood their FB page with comments about the crap? Give them carpal tunnel with the delete process. submitted my own already.

ice screws? where does that come from? So by your logic, the gear forum is for people who are not new to the gear and therefore should know everything about the gear before asking questions? Bistro, you are kinda snarky too. Ending now before this turns to spray. Good day!

read that also. Was thinking that PLB would be a good option as well. No annual fees but no "OK" function.

being somewhat south facing doesn't help

looks like a good time. what is the deal with the 6th photo?

I think this post in regards to informing and collection info on what areas are open and closed due to bird closures needs to be started over. this is turning away from the original rationale.

to be honest, questions of soloing glacier should never be on a newbie forum because newbies should never solo a glacier. In fact, if one has to ask questions about how to solo glaciers, they should not be soloing on a glacier. Once one has spent enough time on a glacier, they will know the answers. And before you give Tvash grief about the undies comment, he brings up a very good point in comedy that you missed entirely. What will you use to aid up with? Just carrying 2 screws is going to be completely useless without some minimal equipment to actually aid with. Heed the advice given by all the people who posted on this thread. I have never met you but your words sound kinda cocky.

side question. I got some skinny mammut slings that are 5 years old. No use other than 3 days cragging in wet WA. What is the retired life of these skinny slings? (I fully expect someone to say that I should toss them and that said someone will volunteer to dispose of them properly if I mail them to him...probably in portland)

Not meaning to speak for Kurt, but I think 6mm if plenty fine for alpine anchor making material. The high strength for anchor material is needed for the dreaded fall factor two onto the anchor. It is near impossible to attain a fall factor 2 in the alpine. (unless it is some uber hardman route that is 5.12 or something) The fall factors are based on the leader taking a free fall onto the piece of protection. In most of the alpine routes, there will be lots of bouncing off small and large ledges that will reduce the forces put onto the protection or onto the anchor if there is no protection yet. If there is no pro, the leader will most likely crash into the big ledge that the anchor is built from and possibly roll off which would yield a fall factor 1 at most. Fine for the anchor but sucks balls for the leader.

it doesn't get truly buried but snow does stick to the almost vertical parts. Sometimes the snow sticks and a new layer of ice will grow over that making for really bad ice screw placements. When avi conditions are bad in the BC, they can be bad above and below the falls too even though it is in the ski area. I can personally attest to the real avi probability on the slopes near the pan done falls.

what is so wrong with fortune cookies in linsanity fz yogurt? I suppose that soy sauce ice cream would be insulting too? I can see the comment "chink in the armor of ...." article last week as the term chink is derogatory. But fortune cookies?

All very good info y'all! thanks

It really comes down to wether or not the sun is gonna be enough to heat up the screw and melt out the ice. If it is warm and sunny and in the ice long enough (summer ice TR comes to mind) then you need to angle it back a bit to that even it it melts out, it will not "pop" out. If it is inside a crevasse that is cold, dark and only used for a brief period of time like for protection, then I usually drill in perpendicular to the ice.