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genepires

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Everything posted by genepires

  1. the fam was out at the mtneers clubhouse outdoor wall on 4/22/12 and my 5yo left his little rock shoes there. Can't remember the model as we haven't gotten much use out it yet but it was a velcro closure, some red parts and maybe a monkey graphic. Will pay whatever reasonable reward you would like for return. thanks gene
  2. I wish I could describe the reasoning with the unit forces and how they multiply through the system but I need drawings to make sense of it. and I lack the computer wherewithal to do that quickly and logically. easy on a bar napkin though. A physicist would be able to apply a real world friction to my system and give a better answer, but alas, I don't care that much.
  3. interesting link. The last time I looked into these things, I thought the canadian mtn guides assoc taught to do crevasse rescue this way and called it the drop c? With the assumption of a frictionless system and a force of one unit on the pulling end, the ropeman in the drop c setup would be experiencing 2 unit of force pulling onto the anchor. With a normal z-c setup, the anchor pulley would feel a unit force of 4. When you think about the friction that gets involved with twice the unit of force pulling on it, you can see that the drop c setup makes the ropeman less of a concern than in the zc setup.
  4. Once had a great trip up SCW with snow on the approach hike up and a patch on the top. Route was dry except for the last easy pitch once the sun was melting the snow patch. Kicking steps in the snow to make an anchor at the tree was "fun".
  5. OH YEAH, the 10 or so pitch 5.9 all bolted on goats wall! prime rib is the name. More bolted stuff over in mazama. I think inspiration route is all bolted too. Not sure if you could call it sport climbing, but there are all bolted lines in 3 oclock rock area. slab climbing so beware. this list could get very long.
  6. how about that for objective hazards.
  7. I am a bigger fan of leavenworth for crag climbing. LIttle bit farther. There is some sport climbing to be had, especially in the clem hollar and nearby places.(nut house, puzzle palace, ect) I think you could do some stuff on duty dome area too. If you look into the guide book there are routes to be had for sporto types. Bouldering too.
  8. Look at Dave doing homework and research on the interweb. smart fella.
  9. should have a memorial for the fallen avatars.
  10. not mad at myself.....much. just miss the Tvash and glass's clownpunchers is all.
  11. getting it back on track......fuh-q.
  12. maybe spray is just getting polite?
  13. hard to walk by that place to go to the cirque. I wanna go with!
  14. specificity and SAID says that climbing would be the best option. hangboards and rock rings would be second best. there is a lot of specific things you can do in a gym to work on forearms and grip. Slap on some fatgripz on a bar and db to make regular weight work into grip work. Do pullups on rock rings to work the more typical hand strength needed for rock climbing. Barbell finger curls. expand the hand with rubber bands for balance in the forearm, think preventing overuse injuries by strengthening the antagonistic muscles.
  15. spray is strong and live via 4 participants.
  16. don't spend much if any time in this part of cc.c, but just noticed that it has been 2.5 days since the last posting in spray. usually 3 minutes can't go by before something pops up. Is this forum (or cc.com in general) getting old and stale? Have we found better things to do like climb and ski? I hope so.
  17. very impressive for a first trip to banff. curtain call! was your last photo taken near field? looks a lot like silk tassel.
  18. way to rub it in. us working monkeys all sad.
  19. he should have been hacking in monster steps. the spirit of alpinists of yore would have helped him out. unable to arrest and having crampons on is a bad situation. actually, falling with crampons on is a bad situation too.
  20. The lifetime of a rope. Ice climbing rope --> glacier slogging rope--> canyoneering rope --> S&M tiedown rope --> rope floormat. not hip enough for a rope floormat but the S&M part, that's Tvash's world. I am way to white bread for that kind of excitement.
  21. it is always winter somewhere Alex.
  22. conrad kain and his generation would say otherwise. let the rebirth of the giant alpenstocks and their step whacking assault upon the ice slopes begin.
  23. 8.something by 50m whatever I have laying around. I don't put that much thought into the actual construction of the rope as the forces during the fall are relatively little. The only thing that is critical is that it be treated for water resistance, obviously. My glacier rope is usually a retired ice climbing rope before it becomes a canyoneering rope.
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