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WildBlue

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About WildBlue

  • Rank
    n00b
  • Birthday 07/21/1969

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  • Location
    Graham, Washington
  1. Mt Adams route beta

    I'm heading up to Mt Adams, south side, on Friday, and I'm looking for any and all route beta. If anybody has been up there recently, what are the route conditions, parking lot access, camping conditions at Lunch Counter, etc.? Thanks for your help!
  2. 2 person glacier travel

    OK, so about the butterflies-- I understand they can assist with slowing the rope down as it drags over the lip of the crevasse, but then wouldn't those knots prevent you from prusiking up the rope, and also make a z-pulley impossible? I suppose then if you used butterfly knots you would have to have a second rope, right?
  3. Ideal rope length

    Thanks guys, this is exactly the kind of input I am looking for. I know there are a lot of opinions on rope length, and I have seen a lot of different techniques on Rainier. I want to keep the weight to a minimum, but I am pretty conservative, safety-wise too. I am looking at getting a 9.1mm skinny rope which is 55 grams/meter. I have other ropes for other things, so this one would be dedicated to glacier travel only. For a 40m rope, if I have 30 feet between climbers, on a three-man team, then that leaves 71 feet left over, or 35.5 feet coiled on each end climber, minus a few feet for knots, so roughly 30 feet on each end for crevasse rescue. For a 50m rope I would have an extra five meters coiled on each end, or about 16 extra feet, so 46 feet total coiled. That seems like too much to me.
  4. Ideal rope length

    I'm looking for some advice on the ideal rope length for Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver, with a three-man team. I suppose a longer (60m) rope is safer, but I want to minimize weight. I would prefer a 40m rope, assuming 30 feet between climbers, but would that leave enough rope left over for crevasse rescue scenarios?
  5. [TR] Tatoosh Range - Tatoosh Traverse 7/20/2013

    I think I want to try this route. So, there was no technical climbing at all with all the snow melted out? No climbing gear needed at this time of year? Was there any reasonable place to camp along the ridge, so I could make it into a two-day backpack? Thanks,
  6. I'm looking for advice about crossing the lower Nisqually glacier from Glacier Vista, as if you were going up the Kautz route. What is the crevasse situation there? Is it standard to rope up crossing the Nisqually, or do people just walk across it unroped? Thanks
  7. Seeking rope recommendation,Denali West Rib Cutoff

    If you use an 8mm rope, then be sure your prusiks are no bigger then 5mm. Anything bigger than 5mm on an 8mm rope won't bite. They will just slide off.
  8. Adams; Hood; or Rainer in?

    I would recommend against Adams. I climbed it this weekend and it is so melted out that we were just walking up loose gravel all day. No snow. No fun.
  9. Mt Rainier Rescue

    Has there been any more news on the body recovery? Did they poitively identify the person?
  10. Sahale Peak Rescue - July 14th 2012

    So, was it the "Spot" beacon that contacted EMS directly, and brought the helicopter, or was there other contact with the rangers or something. I ask because I have long been curious about the Spot, and I have been contemplating getting one.
  11. Rescues in NCNP

    With all the bad news and fatalities lately, it's nice to hear about a successful rescue. Glad to hear all are safe and recovering, and thanks for the report. Good reminders for all of us.
  12. 30 meter rope on Rainier?

    Well, so I bought the 30 meter, 8mm rope, but my 6mm prusiks would not hold on it for anything. Even with an extra loop they just slid right off. I happened to have a random piece of 5mm cord so I tried a prusik with that and it bit perfectly. But I just can't seem to accept the fact that I will have to replace all my cordelletes down to 5mm to use this rope. 5mm just seems too skinny to me. I think I'm going to return the rope to REI and find a fatter one. I'm really disappointed because that rope is so light and I was looking forward to the big weight savings.
  13. 30 meter rope on Rainier?

    Does anybody ever cut longer ropes down to shorter lengths? I would prefer a rope a little longer than 30 meters, but it's hard to find a relatively skinny glacier-travel rope in anything less than 60 meters, and that's just way too much for two guys on the DC to carry. But I just can't bear the thought of spending $200 plus on a rope and then cutting a chunk off.
  14. 30 meter rope on Rainier?

    Would you use a 30 meter 8mm rope to climb Rainier? Details: Two-man team, Disappointment Cleaver route, late July, summitted via same route before, decent crevasse rescue skills. I am contemplating buying the Edelweiss Discover 8mm x 30m Super Dry Twin Rope that REI sells. It is so small and light and tempting. But I wonder if 30 meters is too short, or if 8mm is too skinny to hold a 6mm prusik. All feedback welcome. Thanks.
  15. Aconcagua 2012

    Awesome! I had been meaning to call you and ask how the climb went. Glad to hear you made it and had a good time.
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