genepires

maybe not the most efficient and it does require the belayer to be somewhat close but this is how i have A0 some routes. while having belayer hold me on a piece that is at waist, I place a piece higher. WHile holding the waist piece draw, I yell "slack" and get the rope into higher piece. Immediately yell "take" and then sit on higher piece. Yard on rope going to belayer to pulley myself higher. Take when at waist level and start over. avoids all the fussing around with slings and whatnot but pieces are not as far apart as with usual aiders and daisies. Pieces must be bomber or else you fall extra length due to introducing slack into system vs kurthicks methos. I believe my system evolved from standard free climbing and losing my cool. I would like to think that I got in over my head but the reality is that I am a less than bold climber.

you are right tyson. matt and i got real baked there, in a not friendly way. i pull my exfol dome suggestion.

I believe that blueberry buttress area on exoliation dome is west facing and shady till 1pm or so.

there are a lot of advantages to using a canadian drop loop (c-z instead of a z-c) for hauling a patient out. Precleaning lip for example. absolutely no way to do this with a 30m rope.

buy a cheap bike (or borrow) and stash it at the south side TH for the ride back to the north side, is one option. Flying downhill on logging roads via headlamp is "fun". type 2 fun. maybe even Phun.

If I save my money by forgoing lunches, I won't be such a fat ass anymore.

you got enough gear for a emergency bivy. Personally, I would not bring the down jacket or fleece pants (or the heavier weight cap pants) for august.

time to save up my lunch money if they are as flexi as the aliens where.

not shitty but the cheap and available everywhere Sierra Designs anorak. I put that piece of outerwear through some serious useage. Used as a "softshell" for many years of alpine guiding and even wore it on summit day on denali. best value for $30. Second the NF flip flops. Mine still doing well unexpectedly while my teva flip flops suck. (Sole is too thin to prevent stones from puncturing and getting stuck.)

nice job Bob.

50 m should be a minimum length for a team of two if you think there is a chance that you will need to perform a complicated crevasse rescue with no one around to help out. By complicated I mean that the rescuer needs to go down to a victim to offer first aid before lifting out. Or if the victim is unconscious. You need to carry enough rope in rescue coils to reach the other person. with 40 feet between climbers and some rope used up in knots to harness and stopper knots along length of rope between, this could mean a 130 foot rope. I guess that is around 40m of rope. But being on the dc route will ensure that there is a high chance that someone will stumble over the surface member and help out.

it should be in shape right now. it will get more difficult as the season progresses due to opening crevasses and schrunds, and bare old ice.

holy "online guidebook" excellence and alpine queen! Back in good form.

laybacking second pitch is epic. one tough lady.

rodger dodger.

isn't columbia crack in private property? Sshhhh.... the city (and castle) rules for cragging IMO. thanks.

the epi and benadryl are a great idea cause you never really know with young kids if they are allergic to bees. For all you know, they became allergic on the drive up. maybe a helmet should be worn. I know I have thought about with my kid. I guess it depends on if they are boys or girls. Good job grandpa! That is the grandpa that most of us wish we had.

would like to make it out to either darrington or wa pass this sunday. moderates preferred. (5.9 or so or soemthing like total soul in 3 oclock rock)

dawg needs to sleep instead of rabid foaming at midnight. should have a hand drilled bolt addition party in IB this weekend.

great photos and story!

I'm no lineman so I don't have a educated answer to your question but here is a possible rationale. Earthquakes. If and when a earthquake happens, maybe the power lines would be damaged and hard to find and repair the breaks. Above ground lines are easier to repair. With the exception of city environments, it seems that wires on poles supply zones which are feed to houses underground. Not many above ground feeds to homes in rural areas.

never too old for diapers though.

legally? you should offer your price range for this since you are looking for a "free lance". Call N cascade mtn guide service. Lots of one on one custom work. If you really want one on one work, call any guide service as they all offer custom guiding.

next season, sweet! Thanks Stevens management. (not free lessons though) no more spending $$ for a couple hours on the hill. Still gotta pay for the adult though.

very nice D!