genepires

http://unofficialnetworks.com/2015/10/accuweather-el-nino-will-give-canada-one-of-its-warmest-winters-on-record calling for dry and mild around Banff. might be a good winter to go up there for ice climbing for those of us who don't like to climb in -30F. Seems like many of the climbs there are fed from ground water and being dry won't affect things much. Maybe I am wrong. Of course places like the trophy wall will suffer but everything with a large bowl above will be fine. wadda you think?

nice job Val. purdy looking time to be up there.

for the terrain you are using it on, it is very unlikely that you could ever generate enough impact force on rope to worry about pulling gear. With all the ledges and edges, the falling climber would just bounce down and eventually get a tug from the rope. Much of the falling force would be absorbed by body hitting ledges and friction with lower angle rock. That concern about using doubles properly is really for vertical/overhanging terrain. from my point of view, the bigger concern is having two strands of rope getting caught as the climbers move. using a single line removes half the chances of getting the rope stuck in some crack.

true, but which was better for laughs? The Don is such an entertainer and source of stomach pain.

Am I wrong in that your second photo has a helmet on someone's pack? it doesn't work well there. way to get after it in wet conditions! even in mtn boots!

there is a full description in Jim Nelson's select climbs of cascades vol2. (I have never done it)

How about that gulley routers eldorado? Not sure it that qualifies as mixed but maybe early season Any of the "ice routes" we got would be considered mixed, especially early season East gulley of white chuck. Access is reasonable in early season so it would be mixed then. You could even nab a second winter ascent. Or even the south face of der Tooth. No ice but fun scratching around

I wish I still could act like that title but my foot won't let me put on a rock shoe. Hoping it will let me wear snowboard boots and ice climbing boots. maybe I can get it under control for next year. tight achilles makes it worse. damn old achilles! Now for a real Monkey, one needs to look at a real classy AMGA guide named Angela Hawse. She is married now to a woman named Monke sometimes called MonkeY. Real nice folks worthy as such a awesome animal title.

Monkey is a nickname from college days. Monkeys like to have fun and always smile. the feces throwing part excluded.

Source? And are you including suicides and deaths by cops killing in the line of duty. Those need to be separate stats. suicides by guns would need to be included in with the murder by guns if the question of gun regulations. I would hope that of the 34K deaths, not a large fraction would be by cops. they are supposed to be professional law enforcement not professional killers.

I'm just not interested in hearing from the mentally ill. that is too bad. Pat may transmit him messages in a harsh fashion but I don't know anyone with more knowledge and passion for politics. His work with the ACLU is commendable and I don't understand the grief people give him over that. Working to help others? I wish I had the ability and free time. If I was a betting man, I bet you two would get along in a face to face meeting. (Like most negative internet interactions)

there is no one gun violence solution possible other than making all guns illegal. what people are trying to get is a middle ground solution. Will any solution work completely? of course not. But if a solution has even a 30% reduction, then it could be considered a success. "how we tend to let people on the fringe an fall through the cracks coupled with a culture of violence in entertainment and a myriad of other factors." if we can't shove meds down any suspected crazy person and also keep a freedom of speech, then are we doomed to a society of violence? at some point, as a civilized and advances society, we must move beyond the idea that gun ownership is a right. Yeah yeah I know it is in the constitution but imagine in the future looking back at now. it just seems so barbaric and ridiculous that gun ownership is a right and health and welfare are not. Much like now and LGBT rights. Society looks so stupid that it took so long to get it right. "but we as a society we don't lock up, force meds, or deny rights to them. And the left is certainly on board with that." I think your generalization of the left is completely off. If anything, I believe conservatives are more on board with locking people up and denying rights such as voting rights and a myriad of others. but I digress and that is another topic.

depends on what qualities are created to allow one to pass a background check. if criminal history is the sole determinant then yeah, it would not have done any good in this one case. but if a broader range of qualities for failure of background test is created, it would be very useful. For example, if you fail out of army bootcamp, (how the F does one fail out of army bootcamp unless you are insane?) then you are not stable enough to own a gun. All the qualities would be geared towards determining mental stability. requiring gun owners insurance would naturally create that system. licensing would partially create that environment I realize the knee jerk reaction is the fear that the system will evolve to exclude the mass majority of folks and be the threat to our freedom when the gubermint takes over. I don't prescribe to that fear.

in your second photo, is that snow dusting on the ground and mountain? looks kinda wierd, like maybe ash. really nice photos and one to put on my list for next fall.

plenty of lines on the n side of snoqualmie peak. don't know details but there is a TR somewhere here with a color overlay of the 4 routes. all somewhere in hardman status.

kinda off the wall non climbing question.....do you have a favorite bike repair place? would prefer something on the east side of the lake between issaquah, bellevue and woodinville. someplace that you feel would not do unneeded work for a buck but still does quality work. thanks gene

Maybe you should give out a level of " radness " that you are looking for. You may get advice ranging from my west ridge and up to winter ascents of n ridge of mt Stuart or NE buttress of Slesse. The w ridge of n twin is def on the easier side of alpine mixed.

Not on most people,s radar but west ridge of north twin in the twin sister range near Bellingham. In winter of course

Education never discriminated between cool people and assholes. Having a degree does not mean you are a good person.

good question. according to the first online dictionary I used, it defines hick as "an unsophisticated, boorish, and provincial person; rube" that definition is not too far off, even accounting for his ability to do brain surgery. denial of evolution is pretty unsophticated. saying that muslims should not be elected to president is pretty boorish, (unmannered; crude; insensitive)

sounds like a smash and grab!

nice. I thought that the first two or three pitches of SS was the better start for dreamer. doesn't it come within a couple feet of a dreamer anchor and bypass the worst run out pitches of dreamer. '

Calm down Ben. Take a deep breath. this is nothing to get all excited about. there are bigger fish to fry and expend your negative energies towards. I appreciate the name change and I am sure the natives to alaska do to. By last self analysis I may be a douchebag, spoiled, dirtbag or an asshole. but I def am not stoned or a kid and quite possibly no longer a climber. (for now) I think your definition of people who care about this name change is a little harsh. or are you stoned? "douchebag spoiled stoned asshole college kids or maybe dirtbag climbers"

Did they mean to call is "Tacobell"? Imagine the commercials of the little tacobell dog on top of Mt Tacobell saying "yo quiero Tacobell"

Someone with creative writing skillz (Ivan?) could write a fictitious TR based on these photos