willstrickland

No worries, cause those places suck anyway! Been to all three. (Actually RRG has a few good trad lines, and there is great fishing at Rifle.)You could include Gunks, Foster Falls, Obed, Little River Canyon...hell, tons of stuff in the SE is way steep. For me, I still find that it's the forearms that go before the ability to pullup and lockoff. It's funny that you mention AF, that's were I climbed the "hardest" route I've done. Funny because it wasn't nearly as hard as some things I've been on that were rated much lower...like two numbers lower.

Bob is right on the money. I've recently read that there is also a third fiber type that is kind of a hybrid between fast/slow twitch. Apparently, you can also convert fast twitch to slow twitch. These different fibers are one more good reason to use periodization. As far as power, how much pull-up type power do you need? What's the most you'll ever be pulling? Bodyweight+30lbs probably. (If you're doing drytooling campus moves at 20,000ft with a 40lb pack and 10lbs of clothes on, you're a hardman anyway and definitely don't need my input) The point is that pulling isn't going to be what shuts you down, finger strength/forearm endurance is. The rare exception might be a long super steep handcrack with perfect bone-locker constrictions.

I've found that the lat pulldown machine doesn't work well for me. It's too easy to initiate the movement by leaning back. And for some reason I just can't pull as much weight on it as on a bar. When I want to do more than bodyweight, I use a weight belt with the chain and plates and the regular pullup bar. I've also found that using grips that are 90 degrees from a normal palms-away position (so your palms are facing each other, thumbs pointing back at you) is helpful and a good approximation of pulling from handjams. It also seems to spread the stress on your shoulders around. Another variation I've started is taking the rope attachment for tricep extensions, and tossing it over the pull-up bar. Because of the metal connector in the middle of the rope, one hand is a few inches higher than the other...do six reps, flip it so the other hand is higher and do six more. This is a decent approxmiation of pulling on ice tools since you are gripping the rope and locking off with your higher hand. I started doing pull-ups again as part of my workouts. After what amounted to over a year off from climbing, I could only muster 14 in the first set and only 10 in the next two (used to do 4 sets of 20). Now I'm doing sets of 12 and decreasing rest between sets as well as adding sets. Once I get back to six sets of 12 with 1-2 minutes between sets, I'll start adding weight on the weight belt. That should be around the time I go to the next phase in periodization anyway, so the reps will go down and weight way up. (End of weak chestbeating) If you can't do one, most gyms(climbing) have bungies you can attach to your harness or under your feet for assitance. Some gyms (regular) also have a machine called the Gravitron for pullups and dips which gives you assitance. You kneel on this platform and it's counterweighted with a nautilus weight stack...choose your amount of assistance to 5lb increments.

So Puget, I gotta know: After you're done slobbin' Kristol's sack , who's next in line...Kondracke, the stuttering fucking idiot; Barnes, the tubby self-righteous bastard; or Donaldson, the rugster himself...and does Sammy D at least take that snaffle pelt off his noggin before he gives you the facial? Do you really expect to get "objective" journalism from a publication that is essentially "This Week's Republican Talking Points and Agenda" ? A link between SoDamnInsane and Al Q wouldn't surprise me at all, but again: Do you think Americans are more or less likely to be attacked by terrorists today compared to before we went into Iraq? for me the answer is clear.

Chocolate Covered Espresso Beans: 3-5mg Regular Cup of Joe: 90-150mg Shot of Espresso: 100mg Source: Caffeine Stats 30 to 50 beans approximately equals a cup...maybe the sugar in the chocolate makes it seem like they're stronger?

Is Molly's assitance aid?

Free those hills girl!!!

I like my copy of White Blood Cells better, it's a little more raw, but Elephant is cool too. Ball and biscuit is a pretty good tune. It's a shame that the corporate radio programmers have played Seven Nation Army to death, but ....oh wait....you aren't talking about the White Stripes? Gus Van Sant? Wasn't that guy the lead singer in Lynr'd Skynr'd?

Duuuudeee, that's a QP! QP is a fat sack...keep you goin' long enough to get those next Kali Mist x Dhurban clones through their 61 day flowering period anyway... which makes a nice segue into the hermaphrodites thread because: Plants will often "reverse" sex usually becoming herms in the process. So, say you're going to move and can't keep cloning momma. No worries, just tweak the light cycle or let the latest clones get quite old before flowering (there are plenty of ways you can almost force herms to form). Then, you've got some male flowers on a female plant, let it pollenate and save the seeds...they will all be female seeds assuming you made your herms from clones. At least that's what my friend uh, Bob, told me...yeah, that's it.

Appeals court denies marijuana case appeal By Associated Press ANCHORAGE The Alaska Court of Appeals has rejected a request by the state to reconsider a decision allowing adults to possess small amounts of marijuana for personal use. In a ruling Friday, the court denied Alaska Attorney General Gregg Renkes' petition for a rehearing in the case of David Noy, a North Pole man who was arrested in 2001 after he was found with marijuana in his home. Renkes said the next step is to ask the Alaska Supreme Court take up the case. In August, the appeals court reversed Noy's conviction and ruled that Alaskans have the right to possess less than four ounces of marijuana in their homes for personal use. The court based its ruling on the broad right to privacy in Alaska's Constitution, as interpreted in the 1975 landmark Alaska Supreme Court case of Ravin vs. State. The Ravin decision had led to the legalization of at-home use of small amounts of marijuana for several years, giving Alaska the most liberal pot laws in the nation. That ended in 1990 when Alaska voters passed an initiative to criminalize the possession of all pot. But this summer's ruling in the Noy case interpreted the Ravin decision as meaning that Alaska's constitutional right to privacy is so strong that the voters _ and the Legislature _ are restricted from just deciding that pot should be illegal in the home. "The state contends that this view of Ravin is fundamentally flawed and that Ravin did not announce a constitutional restriction on the government's lawmaking power ... we are convinced that the state's interpretation of Ravin is wrong," the state appeals court said Friday in its ruling on the Noy marijuana case. Dean Guaneli, the chief assistant attorney general, responded that the appeals court misunderstood arguments made by the state. Despite what appeared to give all indications of a negative ruling for the state, the attorney general's office issued a press release Friday classifying the decision as at least a partial victory. While the decision denied a rehearing, the release states, it did give the state permission to challenge the Ravin decision. Guaneli said the office based this interpretation of the decision on the last sentence, which reads "the state remains free in the future to challenge the continuing vitality of Ravin." William Satterberg, the Fairbanks lawyer who is opposing the attorney general in the Noy case, said the Friday appeals court ruling gave the state no power to challenge the Ravin decision that it didn't already have. But Guaneli said the state was worried that the appeals courts ruling on the Noy case was couched in terms so ironclad that the state might be unable to go back and attack the Ravin decision. The ultimate goal, Guaneli said, is for the state to be able to prove to a court that marijuana is stronger and is causing more harm in Alaska than back when the 1975 Ravin decision came out. Then the state might be able to show it has a strong enough interest in making it illegal to override the constitutional questions.

Serious? Dignified? Mmmm Molly

Somehow I expected this to end with "so I took the obvious cue and banged her in the bathroom"

They're on their way....

4. Complaining about others smoking weed in the hut is taking the victim stance. I will not be a victim, I will partake of the herbage.

Thanks Forrest! Issue is Sept 2000.

Yeah, that was a rough one too. Rob Taylor on the Breach Wall was pretty rough as well, but more from the hospital conditions and sadistic nurse after the fact.

Indeed it's referenced in the 1991 AAJ, but I don't know if it's the whole story or just the blurb about his new route. If anyone has a '91 AAJ, it's on p. 272

Can someone point me to the complete story of Takeyasu Minamiura's 1990 solo of Nameless Tower? This was where he soloed a new 30 pitch route over 40 days, summitted, chucked his haulbag, and parapented off. He was blown right back into the face where he was stranded at 20,000 ft on a 16inch ledge for about a week with virtually nothing...(only a jacket, radio, and pocketknife) until his bros could climb an adjacent route to rescue him. The adjacent route had only seen one or two ascents and was pretty tough in it's own right. I read this sometime in the past (seems like the 1991 AAJ but might have been in one of the rags), and recall someone mentioning it over a campfire recently. Along with Endurance and Alive, this is probably the most intense epic I've heard of...anyone care to add?

Dru, I think you're confusing my TR post with my "bitch and whine about someone nailing on C1" post which concerned the same climb. Anyway... About pictures: I think pics definitely elevate a TR to a higher level, but there's a slight problem. Not all of us have a web host where we can place the pics and link the url. Yes, we can upload them to the gallery and I'd assume link them from there, but there are (understandably) size limits on both the total space of pics you can upload and the individual size of a pic. Now sure, it's not hard to resize them, but the uploads take a loooong time (for my connection anyway). It just turns into a bit of a hassle to put the pics in by the time you convert them, resize, upload, figure out how to link, etc. Maybe someone has a better way..or maybe my cheap ass should get some hosting space (yeah, I've got some free space on one of the many free services, but they also have small space limits and spam the sheeyat outta you all the time.)

Personally, I enjoy reading TRs. Probably because I can't get out as much as I'd like, and it's vicarious adventure. Also, since I'm not a native of the NW, I find out about alot of cool things to add to the "to do" list. I've written a few TRs that I posted here. Usually I just write up an account in my own climbing journal, but if something novel or unusual happened, or if I think someone might get a laugh out of my gaper antics, I might post it. I think by and large my stuff is personally deprecating rather than chest beating. I'm a hack, and I'm well aware of it. As for the TRs themselves, I'm guilty of work that could be better. I didn't edit the last TR I wrote at all. I spent an hour and a half typing it off the top of my head and posted it right after that. After re-reading it on the board I realized that I should have held it for a few days and done some editing for grammar, clarity, and spelling. I'm not Hemingway, and for me to write at a reasonably readable level requires alot of work and re-working. I think that if I am going to post something for mass consumption, I owe it to the potential readers to take the time to make it the best it can be. That said, I've posted about trips out of haste at times because I needed the catharsis of getting it out there. Kind of like using cc.com as a shrink (given, a shrink that berates you and smacks you around)...because few people can understand what we as climbers go through.

True. It works something like this: The "rock" is silt/mud/sand mixture that was formed under tremendous pressure from overlying layers. The mud coating is eroded material. When the outer surface of the rock gets saturated it dissolves into a mud that flows in the runoff. Once the mud runoff dries out, it congeals, but without the huge amounts of pressure and long periods of time (geologic time), it doesn't get compressed and solid like the rock it came from - it remains in a mud-like state. I've only done AA as well, and I was pleasantly surprised at how solid the rock was.

The "why" of the mud is, in short this: The precursor to Cutler was very fine silt and mud (and some grains large enough to be sand) deposited by an alluvial fan (waterway enters a flatter area, causing the velocity to slow, leading to suspended solids settling out). So when Cutler erodes, the result is mud. It's basically a mudstone, to begin with. Even the more erosion resistant overlying caprock, which is Moenkopi, is a siltstone/mudstone.

State and Federal politicians here are banking on it happening. Murkowski is pushing hard. Stevens is pushing hard. We've got an impending budget problem / revenue shortfall and Alaskans don't want to hear 'bout no damn state income tax. I can tell you this: Pipe manufacturers are expanding their storage facilities in Fairbanks...one is consolidating operations and quadrupling in size. Draw your own conclusions....

Surely you can't be serious? About any pint can of brit beer has 'em...Guiness, Boddingtons, Murphy's, etc...