willstrickland

Here ya go foo:

Kor-Ingalls on Castleton - 1996 It was my first tower, first time I had to "carry" the team (I ended up leading the whole thing after my partner backed off the pitch 2 lead), and first time I set-off on a section of climbing that truly scared the shit out of me, knowing it was gonna be at my limit. It was also my first taste of semi-hard OW when it really mattered. After the constriction in the squeeze on the crux pitch, where you go out on the face for a couple of moves and then squeeze back in, I couldn't stretch far enough to get the good calcite rib hold. And my OW/chimney technique was almost non-existent having climbed almost exclusively on the steep juggy southeastern stuff. I grabbed the edge and liebacked that mother, getting more and more pumped, and looking at a huge fall the higher I climbed. When I finally pulled back into the chimney where it widens I thought I was gonna puke. My head felt like it was on fire and I was breathing like a locomotive...felt pretty good Standing on the summit I felt like I'd become a real trad climber that day...doing an old-school route, getting worked, and standing on top of this rad platform in the sky at sunset. At 5.9, the Kor-Ingalls isn't that hard in the grand scheme of things, but ask anyone who's done it...it gets respect. Three months later, I repointed Malvado and Linus in American Fork (still the two "hardest" rated pitches I've climbed)...I think Castelton was harder!

Here here, my good man! I actually had a conversation with my recently-reclassified as "EX" girlfriend, about this shit. The post-boomer generation has seen the momentum of the women's rights movement cause the pendulum to swing too far. It's reached the point that men can't be men. I don't mean crotch scratching, drinking out of the milk carton, grabbing the secretary's ass kind of BS. I mean shit like opening a door for a lady. We've got a generation of dudes who are neutered by the fear of lawsuits or other reprisals for the slightest transgression. We've tried to creat a sexless, merit based society, which ignores our basic hardwiring. Here's an example: I grew up in the south, where you are taught to hold open doors for people (go ahead and get your southern jokes in). One day a few years ago, I approached a storefront and noticed two middle-aged ladies a few yards behind me approaching the same store. I open the door, stand back and hold it open for them. This is standard practice for me, just like the yes ma'am/no ma'am stuff to seniors. Bitch says to me "I'm perfectly capable of opening the door myself" My reply: "Well fuck you then you bitch, I was trying to be a nice guy, you fugly hag" It's a no win situation. Another example: I was taught that when walking with a lady several things are important: 1. On a sidewalk, you always walk on the curb side. Crossing the street, you walk on the left. (It's a protection thing) 2. Going up stairs, you walk behind. Going down stairs you walk in front. That way if she somehow falls, you can catch her, or she'll fall on you and not down the stairs. It's simple, basically chivalrous behavior. A girl I was dating bitched about the stairs thing. Going up stairs... "are you trying to look at my ass or something", going down stairs..."why did you have to jump in front of me to go first? I'm not going to get lost going down the stairs" Yet another example: Hottie coworker when I was in Oregon wears these sexy little outfits to work. Clearly she is wearing these clothes to be appealing to the opposite sex. One of my coworkers says something like "Jen, that dress looks great on you!". One of the other girls in the office started baggin on him as soon as he walked away..."that was inappopriate. He shouldn't be saying stuff like that in the office". Well, goddamn! If he can't compliment her, she shouldn't wear the shit. Equal rights is one thing, ignoring our basic animal tendencies is another. Men are wired as the strong protectors and hunters. Women are wired as the domestic nestmakers, creating an environment conducive to creating and rearing offspring. I don't mean men shouldn't do chores at home, and women should be housewives cooking and cleaning all day...that 1950s shit was lame too. I mean that it makes alot more sense for me to be changing the oil in the cars while the lady vaccums, and splitting the firewood while the lady cooks. ...can you tell I've got a little pent-up angst? I have recently become a free man again.

Sorry for not PMing this stuff, got some weird issues on work computer. Scott, I live in Alaska...not PDX anymore. Caveman, I'll have to check on some prices and see what's the going rate. I'll PM ya.

I'm in the same boat as Lambone, but I'm looking for some 500s or the one up from that...550? I think. Caveman, whatcha lookin for in trade? ScottH, is your buddy's the 300, 400, or 500?

Santa's Private Reserve Rogue's annual holiday offering, Santa's Private Reserve, is a variation of the classic Saint Rogue Red, but with double the hops--including Chinook, and Centennial, and a mystery hop called Rudolph by head brewer John "more hops" Maier! This holiday elixir is brewed with two-row Harrington, Klages and Munich malts, along with Hugh Baird 30-37, Carastan 13-17, and Crystal 70-80 malts, plus free range coastal water and John's proprietary top-fermenting Pacman yeast. Available in both 22-ounce bottles and on draft. Measurements: 13 degrees Plato, IBU 60, Apparent attenuation 73.1, Lovibond 26.75.

Werd! I just drank the last Wassail, so I now I got plenty 'o things to look for when I jet over to the store. Definitely gonna stock up the Alaskan Smoked Porter big bottles, and try to round up some of that Jolly Roger...sounds like a winner. I've had the Bigfoot, Caveman, and I gotta say, it's mighty tasty. So many choices....good thing I've got a lot of problems to drink off my mind! Anybody know what Rogue's seasonal is? Man, that Rogue pub in NW PDX is the shizzle, a little pricey, but superb beer!

"I'm watching the door. Just go ahead and stroke it son, it won't bite you. Ohh yeahhhhh, that's it."

Here's one Canyukers can appreciate: I hung out with Marc Emery in his office a couple of months ago.

I think Perot would have actually WON that election, if he hadn't gone on those rants about the republicans "Spyin on ma daughter" and picked that nutjob ex-Admiral for a running mate. "Uhh I didn't hear you, let me turn up my hearing aid.." I just cringed watching that VP debate...it was like watching a ship sink. That's where the "kook" seed got planted good. I really wish he'd not f'ed up, not because I would have voted for him, but because he would have made third party candidates viable again. He was a trip, I got a kick out of watching his 30 minute commerical things. Ranting in that craszy voice "Lemme tell ya somethin' people..." but the dude brought the facts to the table. Seemed to have a very clear, detailed, and commanding understanding of the issues he addressed.

Yeah, well they want $10 to send it to AK. Still cheap as far as climbing videos go. I just wonder why they don't make it a downloadable compressed dvd file on the site, that way no shipping and I could burn stacks of them. Bandwidth I guess. BTW, thanks for those cramp pics man...so simple. I guess I was just concerned about the extra space when you take one of the points out since the total width of the spacer bars are cut to have the width of two frontpoints up there. But we're talking 1/4" or something...I'm converting mine right now.

I don't know why you're at work...I'm not. Those stupid-ass hacks working on our heating system broke something in the boiler while trying to service it and have to wait for parts so I've had the last day and a half off. God bless 'em, the dumbasses! Unfortunately it's about -25 outside with a 10mph wind and the sun is just starting to come up. Cross country skiiing isn't real appealing in these conditions. Dber- that's what sick days are for, "Umm, yeah I'm feeling a little sick, of work, so I won't be in today"

Ahh...why not: Puffed tuff with: Oteil and Kofi Burbridge (of Allman Bros Band and Aquarium Rescue Unit), Dave Schools, Sunny and JoJo (of Widespread Panic), Chris Wood (of Medeski,Martin, &Wood). Met and partied with: Phish, Govt Mule. Played high school ball with: Jake Reed (of Vikings, Saints) and his half brother Dale Carter (KC Chiefs and others) Had college classes with: Travis Best, Stephon Marbury, John Barry, Drew Barry (NBA players), Dorsey Levens (Packers). As far as climbing, who cares? Go spend a season in Camp 4 and you'll meet more "big name" climbers than you can shake a stick at. (yes that is improper sentence structure). What you'll actually discover is that there are TONS of people out there you've never heard of doing some really impressive climbing.

No sir. Question remain: Why avatar try imitate Harry Pi avatar? Cockstone no match Harry Pi. Only one Harry Pi comrade. Mr. Pi, please set capitalist straight, value asian communist input.

I don't mind saying it: Bridgeport is about the worst of the PDX craft breweries. The IPA is pretty good, the ESB is pretty good, but the TG IPA puts it to shame (that might not be fair because the TG IPA puts them all to shame), and quite a few ESBs shame theirs as well. The Ebeneezer is thin for a winter seasonal;, and doesn't stand up to bottling well ends up being overcarbonated or something, might be better on tap, but I've not had it on tap. I just wish I could find a good local porter or stout. Alaskan Oatmeal Stout is medicore at best, and the porter has been in short supply in kegs since I got here. The Alaskan seasonal smoked porter is out, but I've yet to tilt one. Anyone had the FireStation No. 5 stuff? Saw their porter in the store on sale, and noticed it was from PDX. I'd not heard of it before.

HOLY SMOKES! $67 !?!! Is there a 6 month or quarterly option or still just daily/monthly/annually. I paid something around $400 when I had an annual there, and that seems to be typical of rates around the country, but $67 for a month? That's jacked up if you only want to train inside during the winter. For $67 bucks I'd expect at least some cardio equipment and decent freeweights. I know cardio equipment is pricey, but damn, freeweights are relatively cheap and last forever. I've lifted in freeweight pits since I was 15 and I think I've seen one busted barbell and two broken plates (a 2.5 and a 5lb that cracked) in all that time. What are the rates in the Seattle gyms? V-World and Stone Gardens...right?

We're at about 4:30, rising around 10am, setting around 2:30pm.

Who wasted time replying? Oh, that'd be you. Reminds me of a rhyme: Chuck chuck bo buck, bannana fanna go fuck yourself

Nice! Don't get much coverage with those spaghetti straps you know. I've actually got a fatty down jacket, my ice climbing gloves, Sorels, and some windstopper fleece full zip pants I can throw on (and do when it's time to get in the car), but it's not that cold yet, and it wouldn't coordinate with my shirt, tie, and slacks. We just discussed taking some files and going to the bar in the hotel across the street to have some bourbon and sit by the fireplace. The ice-fog is thickening up pretty good too. Nasty shit that ice fog, it's when the particulates in the car/fireplace/etc exhaust freezes up and hangs in this toxic cloud. Kinda like frozen smog.

I think the inside pics that are up on the website are still from the old gym. It sounds like you've been inside the new one? I think it should be a big improvement on the previous situation. First, the monthly rates are cheaper. Second, the space is bigger. It would be nice to have more "regular" gym equipment there, after all you can do Yoga in your living room, my living roomm doesn't have a stairmaster or squat rack though. But the old gym had neglible free weights and no aerobic equipment either. The rates compared to other gyms and in light of the facilities was my biggest beef. I didn't care about attitude and I can deal with the chalk (and it was REAL bad in the old PRG, probably because of inadequate ventilation and the fact that they never cleaned off the surfaces of the top of the walls/rafters/etc). The free weights were also in an area so small and congested (it was where everyone changed shoes and taped up and where the storage cubicles were) that it was almost dangerous to do a bench press workout. Gary seemed a little miffed after I posted the original post in this thread. Confronted me as I entered the gym one day shortly after that, it was kinda funny because I was IRIE. We had a lengthy conversation about his two year plus search for a new building, the realities of the gym as a business, recently losing one of his key employees (Martin, who was a very nice dude, and basically his operations manager, moved back to Texas). Still, I told him I wrote what I wrote and I'd stick by it, his rates were too high and the gym too crowded and chalky. I'm glad to see that he finally got a new place, and I'm sure it's a huge burden off his shoulders. I'm also stoked for the climbers who live in PDX proper, a new gym to train in! Cool! I never thought there was bad attitude there...every gym has a few jackasses, but I found the regulars there to be very laidback, fun to train with. Also found that the route setters were above average...of course that changes with the seasons.

So I wake up this morning, look at the outside thermometer , says -40F. A little on the chilly side. Get to work, office seems a little chilly. Look at thermostat, set on 68, says 60. Hmm, nothing a little turbo coffee won't cure. An hour later, temp in the office is still dropping, 50 something. Guy walks in the door. We're a regulatory office so I get mom n pop homeowners and small businesses coming to pick up permit applications etc. Can I help you? "Nah, I'm just seeing what the temp is like up here. We're ripping out the old boiler and replacing it." HELLO? This is a complex of about a dozen OFFICES. We work here during the WEEKDAY. Isn't this job something more suited for the weekend? Or after office hours? Or at the very leasy on a day when it's -15, not -40? So I'm spraying hard to keep my fingers thawed out. Stupid bastards.

The answers you seek: Revlon powder base and a hint of Max Factor rouge. Paul Masson super hold extra. Mary Kay Really Red is an exact match with the Berry colored sheath on Maxim ropes. Black harness will make your ass look fatter if wearing lighter clothing. Best would be black harness on black pants, or medium tone over black pants. Another option is to coordinate the shoes/nails/rope by choosing the "Evergreen" Chaco straps for the approach, Anasazi Mesas for the climb, "forest green" polish by Covergirl, and the "pine" sheath of Beal ropes. Ta-ta honey, I'm off to the Pottery Barn for some FABULOUS new candlesticks.

My Smith experience is limited to three trips and about 15-20 routes from .10a to .12c (it's not a chestbeat if it's that f'in weak, OK!). I've climbed at a bunch of areas around the US. My feeling is that Smith grades are middle of the road. The climbing is a little more delicate, especially above mid .11 or so, than many areas I've been to. It's one of the few areas I've climbed where the predominance of climbs are dead vertical. Many other places seem to be just off vertical with an occasional overhanging section, or way steep. In my mind, the benchmark for stiff grades has always been Yosemite, the Gunks, and Josh. You could probably throw Seneca in there as well. Red Rocks sport routes and this place in AZ, Jacks Canyon, are pretty soft. Everything else just kinda falls in the middle and I attribute them feeling a little different because my own strengths/weaknesses and/or how much I've been climbing lately, how I feel that particular day, etc. It sounds like the guy who posted the thing was just more suited to other types of climbing. I can usually onsight harder grades at areas that are real steep with good holds than I can at a place like Smith, likewise at places with short, hard cruxes compared to endurofests. Everyone has their natural strengths and weaknesses. One possibility is that many of the harder climbs at SMiff see alot of traffic and get polished and spooged with shoe rubber, making the 200th ascent a little rougher than when it was graded.

I hear ya, but they don't bottle either of those and it's about a 2500 mile drive from here to PDX. I'm partial to Scotch style anyway, Kilt Lifter is a perennial fave. Only seasonals I've found on tap up here are Alaskan Winter, so-so, and Sierra Nevada X-mas. Whats up with Bridgeport anyway? The Ebeneezer sucks. Hands down the worst seasonal I've tried. Oh yeah, tried the Pyramid seasonal - Snowcap I think it's called. Pretty tasty.

Erik, I never would have pegged you for a Danzig fan.