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Everything posted by willstrickland
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Thanks for the opinion, fundamentalist. Tell Jerry Falwell I said hello. I like the religion
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The movie Crumb rules. That family is freeeeeky And HOLY shit!!! His buddy that was chillin' on the seat of nails eating that long-ass piece of fabric ribbon that would be intact through his digestive system. New kind of flossing, that is.
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Hell yeah! WAY MOTIVATED. Too bad it's too cold to even ice climb here. I can't imagine how bad the dinner plating gets at -25F. Did a whole load of sets of 12 pullups yesterday. Some sets with a towel thrown over the bar...hanging on like ice tools. Some sets using the close-handed row attachment for the seated cable row thrown over the bar. Some regular palms away sets, some palms facing each other on parallel bars sets. Something like 9 sets total. Some jackasses in the military gym I work out in like to play the one-upsmanship game. I'd complete a set of 12...after having already done a bunch of sets, and some dude who just walked in would walk up and do 14 or 15. "You wanna play suzie? Let's PLAY!" So I knocked out a couple of one arms just to piss them off. GRRRRR!!!!! Testosterone battle. How big's your dick now suzie? MOTIVATED. Six espresso shots RRRRRRRRR!!!! MOOOOOTTTTIVATTTTEEEEDDD!!!!!
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I saw a documentary on Crumb not too long ago...the guy is way talented, but he and his family and friends are waaaayyyy out there. Straight up, mama dropped you on your head and fed you pesticide laced baby forumla kind of out there. From what I remember he was living in NorCal or OR and moved to France.
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Hello Communist. Your presence is hereby requested at the US Senate, hearing room 141 at 9:00am. You will be participating in a lynch..I mean hearing concerning possible un-american activities under the new Patriot Act. Your failure to appear will be construed as an admission of guilt. Please be on time as the gestap...umm, FBI does not like being kept waiting. Sincerely, Sen Joseph McC...ahh, I mean Atty Gen John Ashcroft
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Interesting tidbit from new R&I
willstrickland replied to Dr_Flash_Amazing's topic in Climber's Board
Here's a tidbit for ya: Flagstaff, Arizona based (formerly Boone, NC based) climber Matt Childers has also done Golden Gate, FreeRider, and some .13R trad pitches in the Sedona area. He's also done 5.hard FAs in the Vampire spires, the NC mountains, and other places. Matt's background? A NRG trad climber, Boone boulderer, and Yosemite lodge employee/trad climber during the summers while in college. It's apples and oranges. It's easy to get strong clippin' because you can get in way over your head and get spanked with no consequences in order to get stronger. That's not always a good idea on trad routes. You could make the argument that a 100' indoor gym would be superior to sport climbing because you can totally control the workout and optimize your strength training. After all, look at that Nels Roaassen pig farmer kid from Canyukada....I think he'd only climbed outside a few times and was sending extra hard the few times he got on real rock because he was so strong from pulling plastic. This is -
Lots of good advice so far. Personally, I'd never do a wall without kneepads. I prefer the ones WITHOUT the plastic caps because the plastic tends to slide around. I've used the cheap "Bike" brand volleyball type knee pads and they are superlight and cheap enough to be considered disposable, which is good because the foam in these will be shot after one wall. The gel filled neoprene ones are nice, but get slimy when it's hot. They don't lose their resiliency though. My $0.02 on the rack: In Yos, a double set of offset aliens RULEZ! Hopefully your parter has a set to add to your set. Cam hooks, with doubles in the medium. HB offsets in the full range of sizes. Get more biners, you never have enough on a wall. Double gear sling is nice (I like the BD one). Get a good hauler. I use the ProTraxion, but the wheel could be bigger, I'd investigate the Kong that 'Bone mentioned. Gri-gri is always on the wall with me. If you're taking a hammer, take a funkness too. This has all been said before, but a chant speaks louder than a single voice.
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He's the world's forgotten boy, searchin to destroy
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Not quite that hard, couple letters easier. Seriously though, it's just mindless crimping, one pretty techie move on it about 1/3 of the way up (and it's way confusing in that cave with routes crisscrossing everywhere). I remember before I started working it I spent close to an hour comparing the guidebook and the cave to figure out what went where. I've heard people say Malvado is soft too, it seems to be the first route at it's grade the people tick there. The K-I was a much bigger breakthrough for me, falling a few feet onto a bomber bolt 100 yards from the road ain't no thang.
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Here ya go foo:
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Kor-Ingalls on Castleton - 1996 It was my first tower, first time I had to "carry" the team (I ended up leading the whole thing after my partner backed off the pitch 2 lead), and first time I set-off on a section of climbing that truly scared the shit out of me, knowing it was gonna be at my limit. It was also my first taste of semi-hard OW when it really mattered. After the constriction in the squeeze on the crux pitch, where you go out on the face for a couple of moves and then squeeze back in, I couldn't stretch far enough to get the good calcite rib hold. And my OW/chimney technique was almost non-existent having climbed almost exclusively on the steep juggy southeastern stuff. I grabbed the edge and liebacked that mother, getting more and more pumped, and looking at a huge fall the higher I climbed. When I finally pulled back into the chimney where it widens I thought I was gonna puke. My head felt like it was on fire and I was breathing like a locomotive...felt pretty good Standing on the summit I felt like I'd become a real trad climber that day...doing an old-school route, getting worked, and standing on top of this rad platform in the sky at sunset. At 5.9, the Kor-Ingalls isn't that hard in the grand scheme of things, but ask anyone who's done it...it gets respect. Three months later, I repointed Malvado and Linus in American Fork (still the two "hardest" rated pitches I've climbed)...I think Castelton was harder!
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Here here, my good man! I actually had a conversation with my recently-reclassified as "EX" girlfriend, about this shit. The post-boomer generation has seen the momentum of the women's rights movement cause the pendulum to swing too far. It's reached the point that men can't be men. I don't mean crotch scratching, drinking out of the milk carton, grabbing the secretary's ass kind of BS. I mean shit like opening a door for a lady. We've got a generation of dudes who are neutered by the fear of lawsuits or other reprisals for the slightest transgression. We've tried to creat a sexless, merit based society, which ignores our basic hardwiring. Here's an example: I grew up in the south, where you are taught to hold open doors for people (go ahead and get your southern jokes in). One day a few years ago, I approached a storefront and noticed two middle-aged ladies a few yards behind me approaching the same store. I open the door, stand back and hold it open for them. This is standard practice for me, just like the yes ma'am/no ma'am stuff to seniors. Bitch says to me "I'm perfectly capable of opening the door myself" My reply: "Well fuck you then you bitch, I was trying to be a nice guy, you fugly hag" It's a no win situation. Another example: I was taught that when walking with a lady several things are important: 1. On a sidewalk, you always walk on the curb side. Crossing the street, you walk on the left. (It's a protection thing) 2. Going up stairs, you walk behind. Going down stairs you walk in front. That way if she somehow falls, you can catch her, or she'll fall on you and not down the stairs. It's simple, basically chivalrous behavior. A girl I was dating bitched about the stairs thing. Going up stairs... "are you trying to look at my ass or something", going down stairs..."why did you have to jump in front of me to go first? I'm not going to get lost going down the stairs" Yet another example: Hottie coworker when I was in Oregon wears these sexy little outfits to work. Clearly she is wearing these clothes to be appealing to the opposite sex. One of my coworkers says something like "Jen, that dress looks great on you!". One of the other girls in the office started baggin on him as soon as he walked away..."that was inappopriate. He shouldn't be saying stuff like that in the office". Well, goddamn! If he can't compliment her, she shouldn't wear the shit. Equal rights is one thing, ignoring our basic animal tendencies is another. Men are wired as the strong protectors and hunters. Women are wired as the domestic nestmakers, creating an environment conducive to creating and rearing offspring. I don't mean men shouldn't do chores at home, and women should be housewives cooking and cleaning all day...that 1950s shit was lame too. I mean that it makes alot more sense for me to be changing the oil in the cars while the lady vaccums, and splitting the firewood while the lady cooks. ...can you tell I've got a little pent-up angst? I have recently become a free man again.
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Sorry for not PMing this stuff, got some weird issues on work computer. Scott, I live in Alaska...not PDX anymore. Caveman, I'll have to check on some prices and see what's the going rate. I'll PM ya.
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I'm in the same boat as Lambone, but I'm looking for some 500s or the one up from that...550? I think. Caveman, whatcha lookin for in trade? ScottH, is your buddy's the 300, 400, or 500?
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Santa's Private Reserve Rogue's annual holiday offering, Santa's Private Reserve, is a variation of the classic Saint Rogue Red, but with double the hops--including Chinook, and Centennial, and a mystery hop called Rudolph by head brewer John "more hops" Maier! This holiday elixir is brewed with two-row Harrington, Klages and Munich malts, along with Hugh Baird 30-37, Carastan 13-17, and Crystal 70-80 malts, plus free range coastal water and John's proprietary top-fermenting Pacman yeast. Available in both 22-ounce bottles and on draft. Measurements: 13 degrees Plato, IBU 60, Apparent attenuation 73.1, Lovibond 26.75.
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Werd! I just drank the last Wassail, so I now I got plenty 'o things to look for when I jet over to the store. Definitely gonna stock up the Alaskan Smoked Porter big bottles, and try to round up some of that Jolly Roger...sounds like a winner. I've had the Bigfoot, Caveman, and I gotta say, it's mighty tasty. So many choices....good thing I've got a lot of problems to drink off my mind! Anybody know what Rogue's seasonal is? Man, that Rogue pub in NW PDX is the shizzle, a little pricey, but superb beer!
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"I'm watching the door. Just go ahead and stroke it son, it won't bite you. Ohh yeahhhhh, that's it."
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Here's one Canyukers can appreciate: I hung out with Marc Emery in his office a couple of months ago.
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I think Perot would have actually WON that election, if he hadn't gone on those rants about the republicans "Spyin on ma daughter" and picked that nutjob ex-Admiral for a running mate. "Uhh I didn't hear you, let me turn up my hearing aid.." I just cringed watching that VP debate...it was like watching a ship sink. That's where the "kook" seed got planted good. I really wish he'd not f'ed up, not because I would have voted for him, but because he would have made third party candidates viable again. He was a trip, I got a kick out of watching his 30 minute commerical things. Ranting in that craszy voice "Lemme tell ya somethin' people..." but the dude brought the facts to the table. Seemed to have a very clear, detailed, and commanding understanding of the issues he addressed.
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free Ice climbing DVD - but $5 shipping....
willstrickland replied to mwills's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Yeah, well they want $10 to send it to AK. Still cheap as far as climbing videos go. I just wonder why they don't make it a downloadable compressed dvd file on the site, that way no shipping and I could burn stacks of them. Bandwidth I guess. BTW, thanks for those cramp pics man...so simple. I guess I was just concerned about the extra space when you take one of the points out since the total width of the spacer bars are cut to have the width of two frontpoints up there. But we're talking 1/4" or something...I'm converting mine right now. -
I don't know why you're at work...I'm not. Those stupid-ass hacks working on our heating system broke something in the boiler while trying to service it and have to wait for parts so I've had the last day and a half off. God bless 'em, the dumbasses! Unfortunately it's about -25 outside with a 10mph wind and the sun is just starting to come up. Cross country skiiing isn't real appealing in these conditions. Dber- that's what sick days are for, "Umm, yeah I'm feeling a little sick, of work, so I won't be in today"
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Ahh...why not: Puffed tuff with: Oteil and Kofi Burbridge (of Allman Bros Band and Aquarium Rescue Unit), Dave Schools, Sunny and JoJo (of Widespread Panic), Chris Wood (of Medeski,Martin, &Wood). Met and partied with: Phish, Govt Mule. Played high school ball with: Jake Reed (of Vikings, Saints) and his half brother Dale Carter (KC Chiefs and others) Had college classes with: Travis Best, Stephon Marbury, John Barry, Drew Barry (NBA players), Dorsey Levens (Packers). As far as climbing, who cares? Go spend a season in Camp 4 and you'll meet more "big name" climbers than you can shake a stick at. (yes that is improper sentence structure). What you'll actually discover is that there are TONS of people out there you've never heard of doing some really impressive climbing.
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No sir. Question remain: Why avatar try imitate Harry Pi avatar? Cockstone no match Harry Pi. Only one Harry Pi comrade. Mr. Pi, please set capitalist straight, value asian communist input.
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I don't mind saying it: Bridgeport is about the worst of the PDX craft breweries. The IPA is pretty good, the ESB is pretty good, but the TG IPA puts it to shame (that might not be fair because the TG IPA puts them all to shame), and quite a few ESBs shame theirs as well. The Ebeneezer is thin for a winter seasonal;, and doesn't stand up to bottling well ends up being overcarbonated or something, might be better on tap, but I've not had it on tap. I just wish I could find a good local porter or stout. Alaskan Oatmeal Stout is medicore at best, and the porter has been in short supply in kegs since I got here. The Alaskan seasonal smoked porter is out, but I've yet to tilt one. Anyone had the FireStation No. 5 stuff? Saw their porter in the store on sale, and noticed it was from PDX. I'd not heard of it before.
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Portland Rock Gym...sucking at last
willstrickland replied to willstrickland's topic in Climber's Board
HOLY SMOKES! $67 !?!! Is there a 6 month or quarterly option or still just daily/monthly/annually. I paid something around $400 when I had an annual there, and that seems to be typical of rates around the country, but $67 for a month? That's jacked up if you only want to train inside during the winter. For $67 bucks I'd expect at least some cardio equipment and decent freeweights. I know cardio equipment is pricey, but damn, freeweights are relatively cheap and last forever. I've lifted in freeweight pits since I was 15 and I think I've seen one busted barbell and two broken plates (a 2.5 and a 5lb that cracked) in all that time. What are the rates in the Seattle gyms? V-World and Stone Gardens...right?