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willstrickland

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Everything posted by willstrickland

  1. Two words Mike: Flux capacitor.
  2. Hmm, haven't found anything anything that isn't working on mac that I want to use. It's ok that you're inferior, just accept it. Really, some people have to play the bitch...that's you...all 92% of you. BIG WORM scare!!!....and I'm like "Big Worm...who been watchin' Friday?" EDITED TO SAY: Whoops! My bad, sprayin' in a non-spray forum. Dats what I get for using the Last 25 feature I guess. Should I edit out the spray. Hmmm, too much thinking. I am a man of the 90's...too big of a pussy to make a decision...so I'll leave it up to the mods to censor/edit/remove/banninate.
  3. I'll go if you come pick me up.
  4. I'd have to look, but I believe that the impact force on twins as opposed to a single would be less as well (generally speaking). Anyone have some data handy on this? Another advantage that goes along with being able to rap farther on each rap, is having alot more material for use as rap slings if you have to start cutting the ropes. IMO, I actually feel safest for redundancy on halves because they aren't running in the exact same place. I figure anything that will chop a single will chop twins too. At least with halves they are separated. And as jordop noted, you can use the halves in a twin con figuration, but not vice-versa (well you could, but they aren't rated for it).
  5. Or you could just buy a mac and stop worryin' with all that virus, worm, spyware shizzle. Nobody cares about us, and that's the way uh huh uh huh we like it!
  6. I'd go to City of Rocks. That said... Coffin roof is not really a good aid practice route. Maybe if you aid the whole route including the .9 approach. The reason I say this is that the roof is only about 10-15 feet, takes bomber TCUs, and once over the lip it's a slab that goes free at 5.6 or so. The route is more like a boulder problem with an approach pitch. Makes an excellent free route though, because even if you get spanked on the crux (and I did) you can either aid through or retreat without much drama. If you go to: Indian Creek (sandstone parallel cracks, bring all the cams you can find): Bridger Jacks, Battle of Bulge areas face NW. Supercrack butt, Cat Wall, Donnelly Canyon face southwest (cat is almost due south, and Donnelly climbs face due south). I wouldn't get on anything south facing down there after early May. LCC recommended (granite trad - actually quartz monzonite...but not cheese grater like Josh quartz monz): Satan's Corner .8 (2p), Mexican Crack .10-, Gordons Hangover .10-, Coffin Crack .9, Fin Arete .10 (3p), Dorsal Fin .10+ (4p). All these are fatastic. Satan's is one of the best routes of it's grade in the state. Set nuts, double set TCUs to #3 cams should get you up any of them) American Fork (limestone sport): If it's hot, Membrane area is close to the river, north facing, and stays very cool with a nice cool breeze about 10 routes evenly distributed across grades from .9-mid.12, Hell Cave itself is on a south facing wall but stays cool in the shade ...go here if you're looking for the hard shizzle, the warm up routes are mid .11, routes in the cave run from .12a to .14c. Division wall is north facing, has a very short (2 minutes?) approach, is VERY popular on weekends, and has about 20 routes, mostly .11 Logan Canyon (limestone sport) - The 385 crag faces mainly north. Mostly .11s (it's near the mile marker 385). Maple Canyon - (conglomerate sportmonkey) - The weirdest, most novel, odd hold climbing you'll ever do. It's worth a trip even even if you hate sport climbing just for the sheer bizarre factor. Imagine climbing a petrified riverbed laid vertical to overhanging. If you want an adventure type trad route, and can either handle .11 trad or don't mind aiding a few moves...do one of the routes on Middle Bell. Arm and Hammer goes .11c or 10a A0, Butcher Knife is about the same. The Bell towers are just south of LCC, maybe a mile or two in Bell canyon. Middle bell has the best rock (quartz monz again). If you want to aid, just go to Zion. For free, The Headache .9 (up by the tunnel) faces north. You can do short stuff on the Organ - Organasm (.8, C2, 4p) and Organ Grinder (.9+, 2p) are both north facing and you could knock out both in the same day with no problem. There's more developed bouldering in Utah than you could imagine. In June it's all about LCC. I lived in Utah for a couple of years. If it were me, in June, and I was in SLC already - I'd probably shoot up to City of Rocks myself. Mainly for the variety of trad stuff, a nicer atmosphere, not having to stay in the city at night, etc. Lots of excellent moderates and stuff as hard as you want to climb.
  7. Until the stash is cashed my man.
  8. Radon, I heard that NPR story. I took away a little diffe rent meaning. What I heard those kids say was "I looked for work and didn't even get a nibble. I put resumes out there everywhere." another was "There's nothing here, nothing for someone coming up here(meaning growing up there, they were rural Texan I believe) to do". Another was 24 and basically said he was tired of working bullshit no future jobs like managing a grocery stocking crew or putting together furniture. One kid was looking for adventure and money for college. The message I got was that these alot of these kids were signing up because there was no employment prospects for them and the military was the only sure-fire option for good work.
  9. You can't stop Pettachi. If McEwen can't outsprint him to the line, how can you beat him? He probably wins the next stage too, it's flat. What's the bet that the 22 year old kid that's leading overall is forced to support Simoni "for the good of the team"? And speaking of Simoni...after dominating in the Giro last year, he got his ass handed to him in the Tour...what's up with that?
  10. I believe Bill Richardson is actually the best suited/most qualified, but I believe Edwards would help the campaign much more. Kerry would be wise to adopt Edwards "Two Americas" theme and as Josh said being young, southern, handsome, likeable, and articulate are bonus. (Hey, that sounds like me! well, except for the likeable part )
  11. New York? WTF Scott? Here are the latest poll results: Fox News: Bush 40% Kerry 40% Nader 3% Inv. Bus Daily: Bush 42% Kerry 40% Nader 7% Newsweek: Bush 42% Kerry 43% Nader 5% Time/CNN: Bush 44% Kerry 49% Nader 6% Zogby: Bush 42% Kerry 47% Nader 3% Gallup: Bush 47% Kerry 45% Nader 5% Pew: Bush 43% Kerry 46% Nader 6% Sounds like a dead heat to me. But two things bode well for Kerry. One is he really hasn't been campaigning, chosen a running mate, or debated. Two is that late decision swing voters historically don't vote for the incumbent. He's really going to have to fight his oratorical tendencies and come up with a clear platform/message/plan (Edwards would be the best to help him there) and he's going to have to appeal to the Nader-ites.
  12. I get it and I will renew when the sub runs out. Less hype, less ads, exceptional photography and amazing climbs. The mountain profile in each issue and the personality profile of a climbing lifer type in each issue are a welcome change from the 17 year old kids profiled elsewhere. It's expensive, but I think it is worth it and an increasing subscription base will help keep ads to the bare minimum.
  13. Yeah but you can't trust those canyuker weathermen any farther than you can throw them. I mean really, high 17deg, high 18deg....I wager it'll get up to 50 easy.
  14. Done. Painless and simple using the link above. Take 2 minutes people, do your good deed for the day.
  15. I feel the optimum is to use Cytomax during the activity and an R4 system drink afterwards. R4 has protein:carb at 1:4, and substantial anti-oxidants. It's expensive, it does work. Carmichael (L. Armstrong's trainer) uses this system in his athletes. Ed Burke died on the last year or so. Probably a different guy than you're thinking of, this Burke was only in his mid 50s, worked out of UC Boulder I believe. The reason for the protein is twofold. First, the 1:4 protein to carb mix stimulates insulin response more than pure carbs. This means your muscles will replenish glycogen stores more rapidly and efficiently. Second, you need some protein for tissue repair. Cytomax is good stuff, but to the best of my knowledge has no protein component. Read Burke's book, good stuff in there.
  16. Cracked you need to use some of these too:
  17. Sportiva Cobras $70 (38-43.5 but no 42s) Beal Stinger 9.4 70m dry $129, 60m dry $115, 60m non-dry $97 Beal Booster 9.7 60m dry $119, 60m non-dry $102 Sportiva Megas $100(39-47.5) and MegaDrus(35-42)$110 other shizz too. Just a heads up for ya'll. http://www.sierratradingpost.com/xq/asp/dept_id.L2~6972/catimage.True/qx/prod_list_display.htm
  18. Actually, this might be less of an issue in the near term. China's govt economic folks have stated repeatedly that they will cool the Chinese economy which is consuming huge amounts of oil, iron ore, steel, and aluminum in it's double digit economic growth. However, the cooling of the Chinese economy could be offset by improving Japanese climate and the explosive growth in automobile ownership in China.
  19. Bro on the left The whole gang
  20. That is phat lummox. Easy access thru-crotch zipper for basecamp Breshears rendezvous. The price tag/UPC code is still on the tool in her right hand. Seven Summits huh? Well, I reckon she'll have to come up here then. Time to get my mac on.
  21. He still ain't the Rocket, and he ain't the Ryan Express!
  22. Araceli rocks your dome.
  23. Offwhite, your point is well taken to an extent. When oil prices are high it is because: 1. Demand is high, in which case shipping costs go up because the companies must lease tankers at on the spot market who's rates rise along with demand. or 2. Supply is decreased, in which case the companies variable costs are higher per production unit (working more/harder to obtain same amount). In either case, the profit margin is not rising linearly with the price of oil. It's not quite the same situation as your example.
  24. Here's what's funny to me: I couldn't drag my ass to the top of that hill from either side. But why would you peeps be dissin' on AlpineK, who is obviously not a trust-fund rich kid or sponsored for some bullshit reason? He made a dirtbag trip happen, and made it pretty high on a still unclimbed route on the mountain. How many of you would even consider attempting a new route on an 8000m peak? The committment level alone is more than 95% of you could muster (myself included). I know I probably couldn't summit the thing because I understand my aerobic capacity. But I also know I wouldn't be freaked out about jugging and/or rapping fixed lines on a 60deg ice face. The simple fact is, this lady is a reasonably attractive endurance athlete who played her ass for a shot at glory. She won. Congratulations for fierce aerobic capacity and playing the PR game. She still is nothing more than a glorified high altitude hiker. Nothing wrong with that, but to say she "climbed everest" is an insult to people like A.K. who actually climbed on the mountain in good style. The whole commericialized, peak bagger, pop-culture, latest craze, ego-ridden aspect of her trip and personality is in opposition to everything that climbing culture means to me. Maybe you think differently, and if so, hopefully you'll be hang dogging with your shirt off on some overgraded bolted choss pile spraying to your buddies and grunting loudly everytime a chick enters earshot while I'm off climbing something in the backcountry listening to the wind. One thing is for certain, you won't be roping up with me.
  25. What a load of shit. Two fundamentals here: Supply. Demand. Govt price controls are not a fix. Tell the companies they have to lose money on the product to sell it here and guess what? You went from expensive oil to NO OIL AT ALL. Congratulations asshat democrat politicians, with no oil or even a severly restricted supply we have an economic depression that makes the 1930's look like high times indeed. The problems here are two: 1. Price manipulation by OPEC 2. Political instability in Venezuela This tactic in the orgininal post above would work...but not by "sticking it to the oil companies". It would simply decrease demand. We could all carpool, take the bus, bike, etc and achieve the same result...until the prices dropped and everyone started driving again. Do you even know what the profit margins of the large oil companies are? I'm talking ExxonMobil or ChevronTexaco. Exxon has a profit margin around 7.9% and ChevTex around 6.5%. What does Starbucks have...ab out 7%.
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