slothrop

This has worked for me at the Stuart Lake TH on a weekend, though like the man says, "absence of evidence is not evidence of absence" w/r/t the rangers of mass ticketing.

Curly Cheney looks like Steve Jobs.

Climb: Mt. Hood - Yocum Ridge Date of Climb: 8/23/2004 Trip Report: Can anyone who's been up there recently tell me what conditions are like? I asked everyone I know at PRG, but didn't get much beta. Gear Notes: Do we need ice picks this time of year? Approach Notes: Where's the best place to land my helicopter? I heard some Army dudes crashed theirs a while back, so I'm sure as hell not going to land where they were!!!

STFU n00b!

Climb: Colchuck Balanced Rock-NW Butt/N Ridge Date of Climb: 8/14/2004 Trip Report: eric8 and I climbed the northwest butt on CBR last Saturday. We did what these guys did after discovering that the upper part of the route kinda fell off--we scrambled off into the north ridge gully to the top. On the buttress itself, we had some fun and licheny climbing for four pitches, up to 5.8. I wrote a long and rambling TR in my usual detailed style here (including pitch-by-pitch description lacking in Beckey): http://bodenner.net/~rkb/climb/cbr-aug-14-2004.php Gear Notes: small rack to 3" 60m rope water filter would be nice Approach Notes: long, especially on 2 hours sleep new alpine bouldering area (formerly the upper portion of the route) in the basin below W face

The hill down from the top/backside of Golden Gardens to the locks is long, though not super steep. I hit 38 on that, let go of the handlebars, and damn did that thing shimmy. Yeehaw!

wtf?

This route sounds like BC's version of the West Ridge of North Twin.

Glad your ankle's in good shape. The east ridge is a good route if you get a hankerin' for Forbidden again.

Skis are gone, traded for a sixer of pale ale

Annabelle tells me she prefers the "rear entry" approach to Ohface. Now there's a woman who likes to get on the tippy top!

This is a great idea. As to the notion that "we should fix it ourselves," it seems to me that we've been trying, but fucked-up shit still happens, like election-machine companies being allowed to give money to political candidates and thousands of Hispanic felons (who generally vote Republican) "accidentally" left off a list of ineligible voters in Florida. The current administration is in no position, politically, to push for badly-needed election reform, so the motivation to do so has to come from somewhere else (i.e., the Democrats, concerned citizens, etc.).

Hey, that must be mine! I've been going headlampless since that summer I climbed Slipstream. It was in good "nick", as they say, that August--don't believe the naysayers who are always trying to give you bad advice about climbing conditions there. There's no way I'm paying to see at night, so I'm glad you found my battery. You can just give it to me when we meet up in Boulder to start our acclimitudination training for Cho Oyeah... you're still in, right?

I climbed something once that was pretty hard for me. I didn't use chalk and I didn't brush the holds before or after. Don't yell at me, Dr. Meanie!

I'm arrogant yet spineless. I would lose my ass if it weren't attached to me. I'm generally inconsiderate of others' needs. In fact, I'm a dirty, lying, thieving bastard. I feel my qualifications make me probably the worst choice for any position in the team, so please consider me. Do I need an ice pick for this climb?

1200' of unprotected 5.8 slab!? Didja just solo all that or what? Sounds like a full-on experience!

I'm looking forward to the TR! I always thought this looked like a great traverse. Nice job, guys!

Rob, this is your next purchase: on sale!

The northside snowfield is mostly gone. There's a lot of annoying scree traversing if you use the northside descent. Pax's photo shows the northwest snowfield, which is not really part of the descent path (you walk along its lower left margin a little). In hindsight, I'd say it's better to downclimb the route. Photos to follow in a beta-packed TR!

The real question is, what's the effective strength of that knot?

why?

I think that depends on whether you're talking Spectra, 1" tubular nylon, or 9/16" nylon. Or those skinny, yet flattering, 7mm Mammut Dyneema slings! And you know that tit size and geometry vary with the lunar cycle... so I think you'll have to give CBS some time to work out a comprehensive formula.

What is this brushing? Just use the blood from your shredded tips to soak up the junk on the holds and apply your mutant finger strength to pulverize the mixture into nothingness. BZZZAAATTTT!

Those look an awful lot like the Arc'Teryx ones, just with one more articulated section.