slothrop

The real question is, what's the effective strength of that knot?

why?

I think that depends on whether you're talking Spectra, 1" tubular nylon, or 9/16" nylon. Or those skinny, yet flattering, 7mm Mammut Dyneema slings! And you know that tit size and geometry vary with the lunar cycle... so I think you'll have to give CBS some time to work out a comprehensive formula.

What is this brushing? Just use the blood from your shredded tips to soak up the junk on the holds and apply your mutant finger strength to pulverize the mixture into nothingness. BZZZAAATTTT!

Those look an awful lot like the Arc'Teryx ones, just with one more articulated section.

Hm, thanks for the warning, Ade.

It's taken far too many 5 year-olds to bring Michael Jackson down.

I picked up a pair of those Arc'Teryx kneepads at the REI garage sale, thinking they'd be great for aid climbing, but they suck. Maybe they're good for tele skiing, but they popped off after five minutes. No sticky rubber, just a plastic sheet with stiff foam backing. High quality, but they didn't work for me.

Women were designed to wear these: http://www.cafeshops.com/babyjesushead.12089894

I think erik needs to see this (linked from the creation "science" page): http://objective.jesussave.us/babyj.html

Alpinfox said: You're so right! Hustler, on the other hand, is readily available to the public.

Me on the left, Gary on the right: I think I have a special talent for capturing Eric at his most photogenic:

How do you say "Hold my drink, bitch" in French?

Awesome, Darin!

I'd like to go back and do the direct finish up the dihedral (skipping the traverse pitch).

Can't you rap to the top of those blocks just to the left of the start of Princely with a single 60m? It's a pretty easy downclimb from there.

It's Latin, meaning "and Cetera", as in Peter Cetera. So if someone says, "For your 8K expedition, you'll need 200 lb. of horsecock, 50 lb. of Gore-Tex, some actual climbing experience, suckers to carry your gear, etcetera," they mean you'll want this guy along with you for "Inspiration": Good luck!

There's a small drip a few dozen yards west of the sites at 10200' on the Turtle's west side, but it's not as copious as the waterfall Jay mentions.

Nope, they're not prescription sunglasses.

Anyone lose their eyeglasses at the bivy sites around 9200' below Camp Hazard?

That was covert chestbeating disguised as a found gear notice, "in the NOLSe style".

We approached via Comet Falls TH and Van Trump Park, a scenic and less crowded way to go. Getting to high camp was easy snow slogging to a collection of smallish sites (our three-man tent just fit) on the west side of the Turtle at 10200'. We involved ourselves in no glacier travel shenanigans to get to camp. Rain and wind stopped our attempt Monday morning, but my partners stayed on for another go on Tuesday. So I dunno about conditions on the actual route.

Approximate a meter (I have a 32" inseam, so I add a few inches to that and eyeball it), measure out 20 of them, and tie a butterfly at that point. Repeat. Works for me. Or measure and mark the distances on your rope beforehand.

Props to SMR for doing the search. My friend Dan slept at the trailhead two nights ago in support of the operation.

Better than having the reporter leave out the facts and replace them with assumptions, half-baked analysis, and unverified "sources".