specialed

I don't know about chopping that 10b next to dogleg. Its one thing to bolt some random toprope, its another to bolt a historical tespiece that was freed in the 60's, has and is done on lead.

No shit, I think the headpoint technique is way better than bolts. There's a shit-ton of well-bolted 10d's and 11's at crags all across the country for people who want to clmb that way. Every climb at every crag in the world doesn't have to be tamed by bolts. That really pisses me off.

Fuckin lame. I guess we should change the name to Aaron's Happy Joy Cheerful Flower Sunshine Direct, because the old name no longer applies. I'll volunteer to help chop that route.

NOone was arguing for bolts, but you were claiming bolt choppers were primarily motivated by their own egos as opposed to a worthy ideal. I'm just saying I agree with chopping in many instances as well as the ideas that fuel that action. Capt: what's the DDD route all about? [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 07-03-2001).]

I have to side with the Captain on this one. The fewer bolts the better. Climbing shouldn't be packaged for mass consumption. Just because its so easy to place bolts these days doesn't mean we should. If a route has no or a few bolts and its considered committing or dangerous, so be it. We shouldn't make it "safe" and easy for everyone. If someone's out chopping bolts maybe the dudes who overdrill will think twice next time.

I don't understand why you'd want to shoot something if you can't eat it. From what I understand, male moose don't taste that good.

I don't understand what the point is. Everyone knows they're fake. Even if she wasn't a well-known person, most people can tell they're fake by looking at them, its so tacky, like wearing way too much makeup. Bobby Boobsman has always struck me as somewhat ditzy and superficial. She gave slide show a couple years ago in Missoula, and got heckled the whole time. She would say shit like, "you can't call yourself a climber unless you've climbed in Yosemite." People were yelling "Bullshit" at her right in the middle of her presentation. Kind of rude, but kind of funny.

i wonder if you can rent out a climbing gym for a party. Or maybe have the party at someone's house who has a wall. Or maybe get a big spotlight and have the party at Index and set up a bunch of topropes. Or not.

I'd go, but I don't think I'd ever hear the end of it from my girlfriend for going to a party with people I met on the inernet.

Yeah the dogpark is probably the pinnacle of most dog's existance.

Right, right. Yeah that one is worthless. The crappy slot leading to the sandbox, yugh! Rapping TC would totally be doable, but I think (though I haven't done it) GD is more direct and straight. Probably should just start rapping and use whatever anchors you happen to come across

bolt ladder. Exposed. lame? you be the judge

Good point. maybe "technically" you wouldn't have done it all clean in that scenario. But you're right, the line between clean and not clean can be pretty blurry. Espescially if you smeared shit all over it [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 07-02-2001).]

Not to be a nit-picky anal retard, but the route's definetly not clean, there's tons of fixed shit on it. But its hammerless, cause you don't have to put anymore shit in it.

You can do TC in a few hours, esp. for a valley wall vet like yourself bone-dog. Its easy and short, with lots of fixed gear. Just take standard rack with some small tcu's and RP's - definetly hammerless. The guide says to do a pendulum or tension traverse on the first aid pitch (I think), but just keep going till you get to the roof and go left under the roof to get to the next crack system, w/o doing any tension or pend. Link the last two pitches together if you've got a 60m. Its probably easiest to rap the route because the descent trail is hard to find, I wandered around in the woods for almost an hour carrying all my gear until I found it. Its a fun route with good exposure, have an awesome time! (Erik's right, last pitch is just a bolt ladder. Do it if you want, but if you don't you're not missing much.) [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 07-02-2001).]

clip sandles on your harness, then go bouldering, top-roping, and beer drinking afterwards .

The descent "scramble" is a breeze. Its probably way easier than rapping down a way popular face and getting a bunch of climbers pissed at you cause your throwing your rope on their heads, or risking getting ropes stuck. Plus you'll have to take two ropes. Just walk off. [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 07-02-2001).]

I'm no vet, but I guess that it really depends on the breed. A "wilder" breeds such as a malamute, husky, and some shepards that are closely related to wolves and have been bread for their physical ability not looks, do better in rugged terrain and adverse conditions, like sun and snow. But it gets kind of blurry with breeds like labs that are bread for temperment, looks, and athletic ability. Probably depends on the individual dog too. I snuck my two dogs up to Ranier NP last winter for some bc skiing. Noone seemed to mind but I don't think I'll be doing it again because it was kind of sketchy trying to avoid the rangers and pretend we didn't see the numerous no dogs sigs. Its probably not worth the risk of getting caught and paying the hefty fine when there's other places to go.

I must concur about the "Endurance" as one of the best survival tales ever. "Eiger: Wall of Death" is a pretty interesting read. Although it reads like a summit log, chronolgy of almost every person who set foot on the face - which gets a little slow. But has some awesome stories about how burly those dudes were. Good history of extreme climbing in the alps. BTW, two of the four men on the first ascent of the mordwand were killed fighting for the Germans in WWII!

Yeah, one ranger in Zion told me to get rid of a small piece of sage on my dashboard because "its illegal to remove anything natural, including vegetation, from national parks," and that gave her the right to search my car if she wanted. Such power tripping jerkoffs.

Ranger station in Zion is awesome. Don't know shit about climbing but, duh, don't expect them too. There way nice and have a slew of notebooks with topos of almost every route done in the canyon. They'll take the time to talk to you, show you the books, give you directions, and photocopy to topos for like ten cents.

I used to own a dog that was a Great Dane, pitbull, australian shepard X. He had really short fur (almost none) under his belly, and I used to slather organic sun cream on his belly just in case when we were on snow fields in the sun. Those mountain dogs have lots more fur than my dog did, so I wouldn't worry about it. I worried about his eyes too, but what are you going to do? train him to wear glacier glasses? I'd imagine if you've got a fancy-pants mountain dog, they're genetically evolved to handle bright sun. On one spring/summer ski trip, my dog started freaking out towards the end of the day, wouldn't go down easy slopes, etc. And he's usually fearless. In retrospect I think the sun might have hurt his eyes and vision. The other dog on the trip did just fine. So it probably depends on the breed. [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 06-29-2001).]

the definitive answer.

I've been thinking that Red Mountain or other areas off of Snoqualmie Pass would be good spots to tour with dogs. Anyone concur? Unfortunatly my dog is getting old, her hips are failing and can't go skiing anymore [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 06-29-2001).]

I actually realy like the Southeast. I had the fortune to climb in Red River gorge last summer. Despite the heat, it was a great experience, and definetly the 'tip of the iceburg' as far as rock in the SE. The scene was remarkably friendly and layed-back. There were tons of sport climbers, but any major bolted crags like that. I did meet this southern off-width master who had climbed with B Jackson in vedavoo. It was pretty cool, and desperate, following some of his leads. My girlfriend's from Tennessee, so we're going to plan a SE climbing trip at some point in the future.