specialed

What you want to know about upper town wall?

What exactly is a stubborn turd? It would be a good name for a route. "Be careful on the third overhang of Stubborn Turd, its way runnout"

It couldn't hurt. I don't have any specific plans to do the shield, though its a distinct possibility. And I'm not going till September. But if you've got the extra time I'd be interested in what you used on it.

Talk to Lambone, he just got back. And Bone-dog, what do you think of ratings comparison between NW and Valley area? Ratings are a bunch of horseshit anyway, but ratings down there can't be any harder than Index.

Will, check your personal messages if you haven't already.

I'm sure that was them. I wasn't there so I only got the story second hand. But I think I remember Dan saying they didn't finish cause they didn't have the right size heads. I didn't know Jason Lakey, the belayer, had a broken nose. I know he was pissed he dropped his doob though.

Probably some hard ass nail up with the Bird. So he could be in the middle of some 8+ hour A5 pitch in 100 degree heat and send the rope down for more cigarettes. Or maybe 'Conan the Librarian' with Paul Pritchard. I just like the name of the route.

Hopefully I'll be able to partner up with my boy, Deathwish Dan, from Missoula, for a wall. He can lead the A3-4 sketchfest pitches and I'll do the hard free climbing bit. I've heard the routes on Half Dome are good: short (relatively), steep, and hard.

I knew you all were a bunch of bitches, talk a bunch of shit, but won't throw down to climb!

Fuck that!

Wow! thanks for the good ideas. The Shield sounds like a prime objective. BTW, my buddy (Deathwish Dan)did the Shield last season: ripped a copperhead, took a sixty-footer, and nailed his belayer on the way down (who was in the process of rolling a doobie and was none to pleased that the entire contents were vaporized in the collision.) But he was ok even though he dropped his spliff, and I think they finished the route. -Reg route on Half-Dome might be a little over-traveled for my taste. [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 06-26-2001).] [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 06-26-2001).]

Looking for a partner to do some alpine rock this weekend in the 5.10/5.11 range. My regular partners are injured, busy, in Yosemite, or some have some other lame excuse like that. We can go bouldering or drinking beforehand to get acquainted. [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 06-26-2001).]

I saw that dude in Squamish once. Uh yeah, that's my Fred Becky story.

I think I'm gunna spend some time in the alpine "backcountry", Cathedral Peak sounds pretty choice. It seems like there's tons of dope climbs 4-7 pitches at Toulumne. I'll probably do atleast one wall, but concentrate and the bomb-ass free climbs in the valley, like Steck-Salathe. Any beta on Mt. Whitney? Is it worth doing? are there technical routes on it? [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 06-26-2001).]

Bone: what routes did you do in the valley and toulumne? I'm headed down there this fall and need to put together a tick-list.

Fire burn trees, fire nah burn rocks.

This is my own battlecage! There is nothing better to do than argue with me!!! Bring it on!! No, really, this is totally pointless. Have fun in mountains too, be safe, and climb high.

Whats the difference between making some sarcastic remark that implies that I'm a dumbass, and directly saying that I'm a dumbas? The fact is, you're a dumbass, because you still don't seem to understand that I never said I was going to rap off a couple 6mm lines at all. A 6mm line tied to a rope of a larger diameter is what I was talking about. Which is a system commonly used by climbers in the alpine environment, including Mark Twight, who reccomends this sytem in his book Extreme Alpinism. Also: even if I was asking a stupid question, a proper response wouldn't be a degrading one. If you admit you don't know about something and you inquire as the best way to go about it, that's not "stupid as fuck". Going ahead and doing it without asking is "stupid as fuck". [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 06-25-2001).]

5.17g actualy.

Off to climb at 7 p.m. on Sunday!? He must be a way-rad hardman. Maybe he'll let me lick his boots too, I've been working on my technique.

I just heard second-hand this morning that a friend of mine from Montana had a bad climbing accident involving rockfall recently and apparantly lost two fingers! I didn't get any details, except that it happened in Washington. It might have happened this weekend, or last week. Has anyone heard anything about an accident like this occuring?

Hairball, WilllStrickland: Thanks for the good beta and totally anwering my question!

Not to bring up old shit there Captain Crunch. But I think your gratuitously fecitious remarks about tieing in to ones gear loops would qualify as a personaly-oriented slanderous remark. Anyway, have a nice day.

Pay Campgrounds are way beat. Park at a trailhead and bivy. I also reccomend the Visitors Area as it is close and has full services!

Seriously, you make anchors with acc. cord, you rap off cord. Is their a difference between 6mm acc. cord and 6mm static line? I haven't ever even seen 6mm x 60m ropes for sale anywhere, so I assumed people just buy cord by the foot or meter to use as a rap line. I know ski patrollers that use regular cord for emergency raps.