rat

mike, doesn't this make you feel both afraid and kinda unclean? nice job, guys. that rock looks great.

Climb: south peak of granite mountain-ne face Date of Climb: 8/20/2006 Trip Report: cappellini and i got a late start on saturday and hoofed up to paddy-go-easy pass then along the ridge to a bivvy at the unnamed tarns just northwest of the summit. on sunday, we climbed a clean and solid line never more than 30' off the crest of the central buttress. four full pitches of unlikely-looking 5.9+/5.10- face climbing off occasionally hard-to-find pro led to a roof crack on the crest. after a couple tries including an attempt with his feet over his head, dan pulled on a piece to surmount the awkward off-fist crux before running the rope out on the friendlier cracks above. i managed to follow the roof free at 5.10+/5.11- (you could skirt this via a crack system 30-40' to the left). i contrived a nice sixth pitch up an arete between two gullies before we unroped and scrambled a few hundred feet to the summit. a short walk down talus led back to camp. instead of hiking out via our approach, we dropped directly down to the deception pass trail via slabs and open forest with minimal brush. i used to have a photo of this face and believe this buttress has been climbed previously. i didn't find anything using the search function but there may be some info stored somewhere in the cc.com black hole. any first ascent info would be appreciated. while somewhat short given the approach, this is a recommended line. Gear Notes: pro to 4"

cappellini would have freed the 20' i butchered if he drew the lead. i've been working too much. check the photo gallery for a rough idea where the line goes. i don't know how to attach it to the post.

great route. pitch 3 is classic.

nice line, nice tick.

on sunday, cappellini and i climbed a line on the northeast side of mcclellan peak. the climb is obvious from snow lake and the dike and upper pillar are interesting features when seen from certain places in the range. we started in the clean white corner just right of the dike and climbed four nice pitches of 5.8 corners and face cracks to the top of the lower buttress. about 400' of hiking and 4th class led to the upper pillar. we climbed three pitches just right of the prow to the top of this feature. i butchered the first pitch with whining c1 but dan had no trouble seconding and thought it was only 5.10 or so. he then led a ropelength of sustained 5.10 and i lurched up another pitch of 5.9+. we topped out on a gendarme a short ways east of the summit and bailed. downclimbing to the west brought us back to the packs and a long walk.

rumor has it that you have not been wearing your helmet religiously. wtf, you got a hole in your head or something? wear your goddamn helmet.

you're confusing a nearby ice climb with recurve. however, a friend and i did bail off recurve a few winters ago due to time constraints. check your pm's, curt.

my brother and i climbed a route from the toe in the late 80's thinking it was one of doorish's routes. yeah, gordon told me he's done a few routes up there as well. nice to know the historic name for recurve. thanks. it's actually a pretty good route if you like dirt. cappellini and partner also did a route up the slabs left of the corner.

it sounds like this shares some pitches with doorish's "king's indian" or "nimzo indian" and/or beckey's route? or am i confused about what aspect of jupiter rock you climbed?

bold?

gearexpress.com (like filthyhank says) or justropes.com

you didn't mention if you will be soloing or will have a partner. if you have a partner expect to simul-climb almost everything or you are likely gonna epic in the dark. it's been soloed in a day a number by at least 4 people far more over the hill than colin. if you don't take a rope, the crux is probably the downclimb between the north and middle peaks. it's an honest day. lots of snow patches up there now.

whoever shot him just left him, gall bladder and all.

i saw him loping down the road on my way home from work one evening early last week. while driving to work on friday morning, i found him under the same tarp. some gutter ball must have shot him the night before....rigor had set in but the flies hadn't gotten to him yet. i called the game warden from index but he must have been too busy. what a fucking shame.

including my name in your diatribe didn't have any relevance to the topic either. later.

"what's the matter, don't ya like CLOWNS? don't we make ya LAUGH?" and a good evening to you too, ron. i simply disagree with the bolts next to protectable cracks that seem to be more and more prevalent in the area. pete's just surly 'cause he's cooped up with THE MAN all day and owns a rig that's a hair away from being a 4-runner. too bad about your rig. i hope you dressed out the carcass and took home some fresh meat at least.

how wet is yellow brick road? thanks. put your mouth to the road and suck.

yep. i've improved over the years. which ain't saying much.

got drunk, got stoned and got in a canoe in the middle of a winter night on the wenatchee river. broke an already cracked paddle and swamped said canoe enroute to the opposite side of the river. waded chest deep river back to the truck shortly thereafter. i can't swim.

get a job, tough guy.

dude, i said stay on the ridge until it broadened out, dude. dying is poor style....choose life, choose sparks.

i favor #1 wired hexes.

overly complicated pieces of shit.

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/s...true#Post376313