plexus

For the orginal topic; I use BD #7-10 all of the time and wouldn't think on jumping on a lead without them. Did "fix" a couple of WC over the years. They do hold great, I'm just not into dispensible gear though. I have a couple of DMM cams and am thinking about getting another one after having to run it out on a climb Sunday because of the lack of a double Camalot #2 size. As for vehicles, go with a Toyota Pickup and you'll never be let down.

I have a +20 bag from REI, got it on sale and the only complaint I have is it is too narrow. Mind you I'm not a giant of a person; 5-foot-10, 165 lbs. and I feel like I am in plastic wrap sometimes in it. I looked at the larger size, but it's dimensions were 6 inches longer (not needed) and only 1 inch wider!!

If it was the Orange Dream flavor Gu, I think you prevented the momma from ever bugging climbers again. Nothing could like the flavor of that stuff!!

No kidding! I think I would want to spend a couple days up there. Looks beautiful and sounds like you'd have your solitude as well.

Nice clean pictures. I especially like the one with the clouds hanging around like spectres. Your second and third pics gave it away. Good luck getting after it this weekend. I look forward to reading the completed tale.

Double

Mox? Cathedral Peak? I think Jack can be done in a day.

3,6000 feet in elevation gain in an hour and a half?! Damn, that's impressive.

Don't think I would trust this. http://www.spadout.com/video_external.php?vide_video_id_single=10&vide_backurl=/wiki/index.php/or_show_summer_2007

One of the better TRs I've read. I am deeply jealous, it looked like a wonderful time and despite thick clouds, you had a really good weather window. How is Kev's hand doing now?

When any of you see a golden eagle pick up and fly away with a grizzly cub, then you can be the giant ape beating your chest.

:brew: Something nice about not seeing another soul for several days. Pretty area. What route did you do on Cathederal?

That's an impressive heel-hook there, especially since there was no spotter. There are some scary, scary places and people up in dem hills. Try the Concrete/Baker Lake area sometime for the northern kin. Good job on the solo of Vesper. I did the face with a couple of partners many moons ago and remember being happy not falling on my pitch due to a dearth of pro and what I had was somewhat contrived.

Nice!! That indeed must be some stellar climbing to make you forget about the shwack.

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP20/newswire-gunrunner-cascades-herrington

It's wilderness area, meaning it's illegal to bolt.

I think the multiple usage of the words "rotten" and "bushy" is a reason why it hasn't seen so much traffic, especially with "classics" right on the same wall. I however seem to have an affinity to such routes - the path less taken mentality. It isn't climbing unless you come back with some shrubbery scratches on ya. Did you guys rap the route or is there a way to escape left?

Looks purdy fun!!

I'm with you there. When I first started reading the post, I was sharpening my pitchfork and lighting my torch. Sacrilege to bash the CAGs!

So last Monday while visiting family in Chicago, I figured I had to take advantage of living in high altitude and going down to 300 feet elevation. So I went jogging, which is not out of the ordinary for me. However about two houses down I landed with my left foot and felt a pop in the middle of my back. The muscles in that area started tensing and it hurt for the rest of the day. I know that playing with my 2-year-old niece probably didn't help it and the next morning when I went to shut off the alarm clock, my entire back stiffened up. It's six days later and it still feels like I have a knife embedded in there to the left of my spine and above where your lats meet your lower back. I've been stretching quite a bit and yes, slowly I'm having less pain and more movement. The odd thing is when I get on my climbing wall, it doesn't hurt doing campusing, but more if I twist my hips. The not being active is absolutely killing me. I've downgraded weekend plans from a 15-mile, 2-peak backpacking trip, to the Kelso Ridge on Torreys, to me typing this on the computer today. Is this just me getting older and needing more time to heal or what? I'm trying to see a chiropractor on Monday.

Great read!! Great pictures! Great humour!! Nice climbs! And I think I'll skip Storm King in the future, doesn't sound like too much fun. How many miles and elevation do you think you guys did?

Looking at the photos you took, I don't think your trip was a failure. You just reassessed your objective, that's all.

New York Times just ran a story today about the incident.

Work your way back up to it. The rock isn't going anywhere. Have a good weekend at the pass, jump on some easier things like Beckey on Liberty Bell and Concord Tower, assess how you did and feel and if you're up to it, get it the next day.

If the thought of the cams ever dislodging the boulders ever came into my head, I wouldn't be building an anchor there. It's just that simple. I've built some questionable anchors, like most people here, but would never build one in or around building blocks that I think could topple on top/around/beneath me. I'd rather trust myself and my partner to a bomber nut in a crack than what you're describing. As for which I prefer using to build an anchor - I'll re-voice what has already been said, whatever I have left and what will be needed on the pitch above. My leading philosphy is to use passive pro whenever possible. I keep cams for when I am sketched on tougher terrain and I want to minimalize the time spent slotting pro.