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Everything posted by plexus
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Cheers Jens on your climb! Look forward to reading the report on your Web site. As for the global warming thing...we can all do our part by not using our hair dryers
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OffWhite, No offense taken. I clip bolts occasionally. But I'm sure you can attest to the difference between a bolted climb and a sports climb. I've done both and the bolted climb sometimes scares me more than some trad climbs. I've also worked sports climbs. But when I get up them, I don't get the same satisfaction as I do with leading trad or climbing up a mountain. It goes with one's philosophy and one's pleasures. I was just throwing some good-natured trash at DAF because he appears to have the thick skin to absorb it. BTW, did you have to go to Costco to get that soap box- you know 500 bars of soap on sale for $5.99?
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Meethinks that jhameker likes runouts. C'mon don't you think the one bolt-per-pitch on Snake Dike is a little bit too much...it's like a friggn' bolt ladder !! Sport routes are kinda oxymoronic aren't they?
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I've talked to Dallas about that climb. He is truley hardcore, so when he talks about it being tough, I just never gave it a second thought. Once hiking he Stetattle Creek trail, I dropped down to he creek and crossed the creeka nd began he bushwack up. It didn't take long for me to realize it was going to be painful. However, Dallas did tell me the rock is pretty good up on it. There are a few crumbly pitches but otherwise is good stuff if you're grizzled enough to get to it.
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You guys (and girls) are making this way too hard for yourselves. There was a thread not too long ago about some problems at Exit 38. Try Index, try the boulder garden at Mount Erie, heck make the drive up to Bellingham for Chuckanut, hit Squires Lake jst north of Alger. All you have to do is find a friggin rock and use your imagination. Yes, it might be dirty, it might have moss and lichens and ferns and spiders , but just bring a brush. Otherwise, just wait for the Cordless bouldering guide for the Seattle area.
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Thinker, Liked 6, nice mellow climbing. One could get spoiled by all of that granite and brush-free approaches down there. Also did Pot Belly on Knob Hill. Wanted to try Enigma on Cokkie Cliff but ran out of time. Plenty of bouldering problems at Camp 4, and then up in Tuolumne, did a couple of unnamed climbs we scouted from the east end of Tenaya Lake, Knob, SS Minnow, Zulu Lulu, Knobnoxious (great climb!!) and Cathedral Peak. Elevation killed all three of us at Tuolumne. By the time we got acclimated, it was time to hit the road . Got three guidebooks and definitely will head down there again within the next calender year, hopefully when the valley isn't so hot and the air isn't so smokey from the forest fires. Enjoy the Tietons !!
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Dru, You forgot Flying Circus at Squamish. True it's gotten a little slick from all of the traffic. But you bring your largest hex to beat everybody else out of the way so you can get up it. "Away you crowds or else I'll call the A-Team !!"
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Thread drift #3: Thinker I was up on After Six on Sunday, coming down the dirt gulley by headlamp. We always took our food with us. The only time not was cramming the dried apricots into our jar of peanuts while doing SS Minnow in Tulomne the same day. We had a snaffle nibble a bit off a PB&J sandwich at camp. We made them the night before doing Cathedral Peak. When I packed them, a quarter of the sandwich was gone with the distinctive teeth marks of a snaffle on the bag .
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Erik, don't forget about the exchange rate for Squamish?! Too funny. 11worth grades are pretty right on. It's tru the granite climbing is a little different than other places, but you could say the same thing about a lot of places, including Joshua Tree. My biggest beef with JTree was getting to the top of the climb and having nothign for an anchor (WTF ). So set up an anchor with gear, well then how the hell do you get down and keep your gear. So there was a lot of downclimbing going on. I just wished the guidebook could have said something along those lines about those lines. BTW, everybody have fun in the mountains this weekend, sk hope youre first trad multipitch experience goes well. I'll be out rafting and then heading down to Tuolumne and Yosemite for nine days. Woo-hoo!!!!
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Worst thing done and said. SAID: Looking at 5.11d, "It doesn't look that bad." DONE: Listening to partner's encouragement and tried to lead it. Got four bolts up and had no more skin on fingers or knees. Leading climbs above my ability, I've lost more biners that way.
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Thanks guy with the fancy name for contacting the sources on this. I've got that info written down and will store it in the memory banks. Cheers to your work
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MATTB, How crowded was Cathederal? Heading down there next week and it's high on my ticklist...would you call it "Classic" and worth the hastle. Anybody else with some FH info please feel free to offer your assessment. Gracias
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Holy shiite Iain!! 500 posts since April?!! You should get an honorary title for that. Dat's some beaucoup spraying...must eat plenty o horsecock to keep the energy up and the fingers limber. "How do you train for splitter fingercracks?" Spray like mad at cc.com!!
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Try the Price Glacier route, nice sustained glacier travel and really scary looking
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Sniff, I miss Capt. and Dru...they would have some nice fodder for this. As for pinkpoint, redpoint...really does anybody on this board actually care? I mean I'm sure about 100 of us are sponsored climbers needing to flash some routes for our money train. And I expect some nise wisecracks about sponsors and horsecocks and snafflehounds outta you trask, you must fill the void Dru and Capt. created with their vacation departure
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Knappyhead Lil' Rascal, I didn't say all of JH's routes were sandbagged, just one instance. Actually I thought his routes at the Pumphouse and Pee-Wee's Playhouse were right on. It was a couple of climbs at Oyster Dome I thought were off on their grades. So WTF is up with "your just weak. Do some pullups." quote?! Nice grammer too might I add. Until you meet somebody it is best advised to you to shut up and keep your opinions to yourself. And don't worry, I'll keep myself away from your "precious" Chuckanut shitstone
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• Joshua Trip four years ago with my fiancee back when we were just friends. • Bearpaw Mountain last year • Tomyhoi Mountain as a whim because I was bored after packing to Yellow Aster Butte. • Unnamed, unclimbed granite in Northern British Columbia. • V4 boulder problem down in Oaxaca Mexico on a rock called "The Sandcrawler" after the jawas. And many, many, many of my misadventures with my friends, like rappelling vertical forest (as I was told earlier this week, "you're not a real climber until you have to rappel through forest.") I'll drink a beer to that as soon as I'm done with work in 10 minutes Cheers!
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And you almost forgot Capt., he's hitting 8, 0 this year. And you call yourself the Capt of the Fred Beckey Fan Club...for shame!!
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Dogs at climbing crags....that's why we need more cougars in the mountains
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18 bolts for 120 feet?!!!! WTF?!!! That's a bolt for every 6.67 feet. Best friction climb in the state...I don't care if it's the best friction climb in the world...No friggin' way would I go back to that place
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Talked with a guy yesterday and told me that in May, he went in with a mountain bike. Never mentioned it being a major pain in getting past the washout. Then again he's also been crazy enough to try getting to Stout Lake !!
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Wussiest non-summit -- Ingalls. 1) better half gets one hour of sleep at trailhead, get up to pass, boulder, turn around. 2) I get migrane and half-hour of sleep, sit up all night looking at all the other bastards snoozing peacefully while my temples throb. Wait until 6 a.m. for alarm to go off and better half get up, drive out cursing. Better half has told me we get one more chance. WE JUST NEED TO GET SOME FRIGGIN SLEEP FOR ONCE!!!!
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Like RURP's idea of going back to Glacier Peak. Headed back up a peak I turned back on earlier this year and there was a feeling of satisfaction of being on the summit.
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It's an election year guys. Of course they are going to make areas that have been clearcutted, mined out and not even close to the criteria for wilderness protected. Politians read their polls, they know that people want to protect the environment. But locking up forest land will at least save it from being made into those friggin' cloned condo/townhouse/rat cage developments . "We don't need the muthas, let the muthafu**as burn!!"
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Capt. Been a slow day for you. What's the deal? Soaked up too many suds last night. I have yet to see a from you yet today.