plexus

Wussiest non-summit -- Ingalls. 1) better half gets one hour of sleep at trailhead, get up to pass, boulder, turn around. 2) I get migrane and half-hour of sleep, sit up all night looking at all the other bastards snoozing peacefully while my temples throb. Wait until 6 a.m. for alarm to go off and better half get up, drive out cursing. Better half has told me we get one more chance. WE JUST NEED TO GET SOME FRIGGIN SLEEP FOR ONCE!!!!

Like RURP's idea of going back to Glacier Peak. Headed back up a peak I turned back on earlier this year and there was a feeling of satisfaction of being on the summit.

It's an election year guys. Of course they are going to make areas that have been clearcutted, mined out and not even close to the criteria for wilderness protected. Politians read their polls, they know that people want to protect the environment. But locking up forest land will at least save it from being made into those friggin' cloned condo/townhouse/rat cage developments . "We don't need the muthas, let the muthafu**as burn!!"

Capt. Been a slow day for you. What's the deal? Soaked up too many suds last night. I have yet to see a from you yet today.

Let me know what you end up doing and what's worth while. Heading down to Yosemite/Touloume in a week and a half. Have fun.

Being a newspaper reporter I can honestly tell you guys, when it comes to climbing, media doesn't have a friggin' clue. They mess up facts, lot of times call them "hikers". Reporters are lazy, they will take things for face value without checking it up. This isn't jut with climbing scenarios, this is with all avenues. Do yourself a favor, never talk with a reporter (unless its me of course ), 9 times out of 10 you will be misquoted. This is of course a generalization, but there are very few competent reporters out there and rule of thumb is, radio is worst, TV is a close second and newspapers are the best of a sad bunch.

Lambone, If you had wands, would you have felt confident to try to get off the mountain? Now to the important question you didn't answer..... What flavor Cliff bars were they?

Curious if there is snow up there on the approach or am I going to be scree skiing back down? Also which would you do and why, Big Kangaroo and Melted Tower or standard route on Kangaroo Temple?

Welcome back!! And you thought the mountain was dangerous, be careful of the E. Coli from the burger !! Seriously, glad the three of you are better than worst, and you have not reached gaper status for being able to only get "911" thru on the cell. Just get back on the horse this weekend Cheers !!

Bouldered at Mount Erie on Sunday and today. Not a drop fell from the sky either day. Gotta love the rain shadow of the San Juans .

Not died but just cowered away with my tail inbetween my legs and a carabiner left for a lower off as I received encouragement, "You can do that. IT doesn't look that hard." Only to find out halfway up that the friggin 5.11 is way beyond my range. Cheers

Dyno, Going to go back to developing sandbagged routes at Glacier and Bat Caves or are you solely bouldering now?

Climbed into a praying position with my toilet after bout of food poisoning. NEED TO LOSE WEIGHT FAST?! IT's the latest craze! Food Poisoning!! Lose 5 pound in one day! Trim your tummy line and strengthen your abs!! Call now and we'll add completely free of charge a fever, clod sweats and one hell of a headache too!!

Thanks and enjoy your vacation. Beware of Snafflehound-toting grizzlies

Dru, Where's the best place to get pitons for a good price up north of the giant fence? I thought the rock climbing store in Squamish had some good prices, better than anything I've found down here. How about MEC? Need some LA and KB for my alpine rack. Gracias por tu ayuda

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Right on lets chip, drill and glue them into national sport climbing prominence!! Isn't that what t hey are already trying to do down at Exit 32 and Exit 38? Darin, where is the world's softest sandstone? I thought that Chuckanut Sandstone was the stuff that they use to make Casa Que Pasa tortillas ? Bham boulderers can keep their Larabee. I'd rather take a drive to some real rock.

On Mt Baker Hwy, the other Italian restuarant, with the good pizza, is more west of Glacier, near Demming. The bad, do not, I repeat do not eat at the drive-in burgerstand in Concrete . Buffalo Run and the Ice Cream caboose in Marblemount are better options.

Hahaha. Actually you forgot to capitalize the 'M' on Mountaineer!

The prefered route is the NE ridge, 150 feet of loose down below but real nice climbing above. Route is snow free but the snowpatch leading up to the ridge is more like 45 degrees than the 30 degrees that is written, with a nasty collision of rocks eminent if you slide. Can be down car to car but more enjoyable as overnighter, then you can through in Corteo Peak on your first day on the south route (class 3 exposed) and then do Black Peak the next day. Enjoy.

Asked about them before...don't bother...aparently they are crappy-ass Chuckanut sandstone shiite.

After hearing about my friend's trip on the South Twin on Sunday night, I decided that T and I needed to do some unfinished business on the southern end of the Twin Sisters Range. Last May we pulled up 50 feet in elevation and 250 short of te summit due to my getting frostbite toes, lack of daylight and seriously deteriorating weather (we couldn't see the summit rocks anymore). Made our way up the road at 1 p.m. got to the creek that a year ago, I fell through the snowbridge and tweaked my knee (it was 2 months before it stopped hurting). Made way up brush, using game trails that were favored by bears (plenty of scat, tree markings). Up easy ridge and got to the boulder field and saddle between Last and Step Sister. Climbed two small towers in he saddle, traversed over, climbed solid face (Class 3-5.4) for one rope length. Topping out is tough due to bunch of loose crap. Next pitch is Class 3 up to a slopping shelf that is the garbage dump for the mountain, piles of loose shit and dirt all over the place . At this point you are just to the south of Cupid Tower. Head up twin cracks to arete on to summit blocks (80 feet, 5.6). For those not familiar with the range, the rock is absolutely wonderful and like many of the other peaks (Cinderella, Nancy, Barbara) in the range, you can make many different variations. The final summit pyramid had at least four different Class 5 routes on it, including a beautiful overhanging hand crack. Also the West face, which is a good spring climb with Class 4 and up to 60 degree snow, is merely a Class 2-3 walk-up on heather and boulders now. We used that for our decent, a few snowpatches remaining. The only down part were the mosquitos were enormous and couldn't drink enough of our blood. That and we left some gear at the beginning of the climb. So we had to traverse over and I had to climb up the boulderfield once more. Only animal encounter was a grouse that chased after us hissing (probably protecting a nest). Plenty of bear and cougar scat and elk hoofprints. Last May T and I had a huge black bear run from us and climb a tree. Amazing to see this huge beast climb better and faster than me !! Go check out the Twin Sisters Range when you can. It's my fourth trip into there and I always am treated by some great rock.

First mountain (at least that I count, because hiking up the Sandias in NM just doesn't count) would be Denny Peak sans ice ax on steep slope. And then traversed over and became one of the millions to gaze at the vista from the summit of Das Toof

Lowell, did you happen to take a look at Gunsight Notch by any chance? Thanks for the info.

As long as you stay away from the exhilarating faces of that classic line known to many as "Das Toof" on Monday

Ragged Ridge at least Kitling and New Morning Peaks, Blackbeard, Fisher, and Larabee