plexus

...a hybrid love-child of Beckey, Croft and Big Lou...loaded with

SC, Maybe you misread the second post...going to ADD 8-10 more holds. I have around 60 up there now. I only bought seven of them and got the rest gratis!! It's supported with a frame tied into the existing 2x4s on the other side of the drywall with three horizontal and four vertical studs. Then the top has three 24" pieces coming out from the top 2x4 perpendicularly (all tied together with brackets) Then three more 2x4s heading from those two-foot pieces down to the middle horizontal board. I angle cutted those studs to fit in and also bracketed them. I also installed three wedges underneath the top three small pieces for extra support. Figure you can't get too beefy. Also I changed my orginal design with the first 4 feet being vertical and then the final four feet being overhung at 23 degrees. The biggest problem was cutting the angles on my circular saw. It pivots to 45 degrees. Had to take the backguard off to be able to cut at a 25 degree angle for the 2x4s and just eyeball it. Thankfully it all lined up correctly. I also got a free can of texture paint (with silicon in it). Is it worth putting on, meaning does it enhance the wall? I have a 16 inch gap in the left corner that is going to also go vertical all the way to the ceiling (need the clearence to open up the closet). And then close the other end to make an arete. Also thinking about adding a small roof (three feet deep) on to it later on if things begin to get stale.

Got the woodie up (insert viagara joke HERE ) on Sunday and put the final sheet of plywood on Monday. The good news is the wall hasn't fallen down. Actually it turned out pretty good. The only mistake made was when drilling holes and inserting the T-nuts for the top piece, I put a whole bunch where I thought the top would be, but wound up being the bottom. So I have just three holds at the top (jug, sidepull, crimp). Going to go back and add about 8-10 more holds towards the top to take care of that dearth. Had three T-nuts get messed up (stripped threading and not straight with the drilled hole). I would suggest to gradually pull the T-nut into the wood by tightening a hold on the other side than the Cpt. Caveman method I used of just whacking them with a mallet . So the question is, how long before I get bored with it?

I can't get that quote function to work on my CPU . Not trolling you Winter. Not much of a fisherman, but even I caught a few humpies last Sept. when they were running like mad on the Skagit. Oh thought drift. I didn't lead the 5.10d section. I led up to the cave below the 5.10d section, and that had some 5.10 moves but not the overhanging hand-jamming the exit out of the cave had. The toughest part was the run-out 5.8ish friable slab above that. My friend went back with a French guy (man can he climb) and they added another pitch to it with what they called 5.11 ow !! Apparently getting to the top won't be possible on that line as it gets the consistency of sand castles. Give me your e-mail address and I'll scan the slide of the boulder that had the V4 and send it to you. And the wall as well. I don't know how to download photos on this site without the photo already being online.

1. Cranking first V4 problem 2. FA on a 5.10d trad line down in Oaxaca. 100 meters down, 100 more to go. 3. Surviving my first snow slide 4. Getting fiancee to finally lead a trad climb 5. Leading new route in the Twin Sisters (getting a ride further up the Howard Creek Road so lot less time hiking). Biggest disappointments: 1. Too many weekends spent sleeping in, thinking, it'll be nice next weekend. 2. Too many injuries - two sprained ankles (including severe sprain now), week of back spasms, week of flu, tweeked out wrist.

Do laps on J-berg...write a book about it...kill at least four of your climbing partner....give a slideshow.

After talking about it for three years, I'm finally going to build a woodie in our bedroom. We are renting an apartment and have a 7 1/2' x 8' wall to work with. Going to go with an overhang (30-40 degrees) wall tied into the exisiting studs. Pretty much looking like a right-sided triangle on its head. Have a rough idea for the design but would still like any ideas and suggestions. My biggest concern is having too much torque on the upper supports that form the top of the wall. Thinking about piggy-backing them to the climbing wall and attatching them to the real wall with brackets. Also throwing in some wedges in there for some more support. Curious if this will be enough. Also is it worth it building your own holds. Wood holds are probably relatively easy and having access to a full range of tools, I could almost get artistic with it. I also have a recipe for bondo holds. Has anybody ever made them ? Good or no? Thanks for the help

Distance from car to camp is about four easy walking miles

Doing all three summits of Higgins was fun, scary on the second summit. Had to keep digging out the holds on the downsloping rock. We never could see anything except for a 10-second window down into the Darrington valley. Another good winter climb is Hadley Peak on Baker (great skiing back) really looooonnngg day, depending on snow level and road closure due to mountain goats.

Yeah but we'll all be complaining when Seattle City Light raises rates again next summer because of the low snowpack. Other than that, I'm looking forward to less avy dangers in the backcountry. Oh and throw in some sun days too

Gonna head back there to ski overgrown logging roads up there again this year philfort? The area looks nice but is schwack city once you get off the trail or road. Need plenty o snow. Still, I'd like to try N. Twin this year in snow.

This state has some wussy politicians. Coming from Chicago, what this state needs is some Mayor Daleys running around calling the shots. Eyman would be a laughing stock and things would get done. What is the use of initiatives? That's why we vote for these people. Does the term democratic republic mean anything? I trust the voting public less than I trust the watered-down kokanee politians. I mean these are the people that made "Jackass" No. 1 at the box office. I'm really looking forward to W having his way with his croonies and bulldoze every tree out there. Where's the guy that throws pies in the faces of world leaders when you need him?

While belaying my better half up the last pitch in the Sierras this year, I had a two-piece equalizied anchor set up, mainly because we had to simul-climb and she was standing on a foot-wide ledge. The anchor was bomber, until a couple of 12-year-olds that came up the class 3 way with a parent pulled my hex out and asked what's this for? The other nut just fell out of the other spot because it wasn't under tension anymore. I grabbed the hex from the kid, my eyes looking like this and quickly set the anchor up again with one hand and belaying with the other while better half is climbing. Better half does not know about this. Don't tell her!! My favorite is being belayed up a rusty knifeblade, tied off in the middle and behind a flake that sounded as hollow as my head

Great TR Uncle, My hands started sweating reliving your experience in the chimney with the rope drag. I can relate to that, having had my own immobilizing experience this summer. God that sux! The only thing I thought of as I balanced on two smears and grabbed the rope to yank was "keep your balance". Say, you're not one of those weird uncles we all had as children, that tries to bribe upstairs with candy are you ?!

The trans-american highway (which isn't finished but goes through MExico) is the best bet. It is a toll road but a much faster way of travel than the free highways. Follow everybody else's advice, especially don't drive at night on long, abandoned stretches and get the Mexican auto insuarance. Also the drivers are insane. Stop signs are optional, nobody uses their blinkers and expect to get cutoff all the time. Also road rage is not acceptable down there, you just live with it. Getting belligerent with another driver could only lead to possibly something worse. Where in southern Mexico? I have a friend with a guide shop down in Oaxaca. He can lead you to some good climbing areas down there, as well as by Puebla and Pico de Orizaba. All bolted though.

What I prefer: nice granite w/ optional handcracks, dual sided dihedrals and a starting price of under $20,000. What I climb: chossy class 4 with a point of aid, before the obvious gully and after the verticle forest

The Sierra Designs shell is what I just asked for x-mas from my fiancee. Cool to know it lives up to the hype ...Don't have a teryx shell but my other gear by them is top-notch. Just so damn expensive. Aren't they a Canadien company? Where's the exchange rate lovin ?

With bigger plans for the final sunny weekend of the season (yes I'm a soothsayer) complete shot out of the water due to a severly sprained ankle suffered last Thursday playing basketball (and the ball didn't go in!! ), I had been getting antsy. Finally I figured I could limp up something easy. Slabs were a definite no, and carrying a heavy pack probably would retard my rehab. So we decided on doing Bearpaw Mountain. Ironically last year, the scramble up this double-humped peak behind Church Mountain ended our summer season, as snows buried the alpine terrain in snow two days later. Up the pain in the ass logging road and up the trail. Frost covered everything and the ground was frozen, we spied some cool frost formations, like Star Trek crystals coming out of the ground. More advil and up the talus to the benchland...up the benchland and to the ridge. Perfect little class 3 scrambling with some nice exposure on the NE side. We stayed on the ridge crest or just underneath it, going up and down all of te little points. There is a pseudo-trail also there that is easier and requires just four class 3 steps. Also dropped down to the col (slightly scary) and up onto the west summit as well. Very scary exposed scummy slab descent !! Treated to views of the usual suspects — Baker, Shuksan, Ruth, Icy, Tomyhoi, Canadian Border Peak, Slesse, Blum and the tip top of Larabee. Looked down the valley to the north of Chilliwack (I waved hi Dru!! ). A great half-day. Of course now my ankle is swollen, more bruised and hurts like hell, but a small sacrifice for a good day. Can't wait to get home after work for a few !!

Best bet is to make friends with the receptionist at Crown Pacific down in Hamilton. They have maps, can tell you roads are still driveable...etc. She's never steered me wrong. She don't drink coffee so bribe with sweets not

The "Obvious Descent Gully" route!! When do we get to see pretty pictures? Glad you got out. I've been limping since last Thursday, when I sprained my left ankle rather well playing basketball. It's got the nice black and yellowing bruising going on. Going to try something easy on Thursday before the weather gets wet. Nice job Dru

I live for the obvious gulley!!! It !!! jj, if you know glacier travel, crevasse rescue and enjoy flossing your teeth with devil's club, you guys will have a great time. It's not that bad...but as anybody on this board will tell you between point A and point B is not a straight line. While you're up there, tame the . Went out last weekend and my fiancee thought they were so cute, until they started casing our backpacks !!

Check out this link to an earlier discussion about the approach: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=000419

Took advantage of the sunny weekend to nab the NW route up Kangaroo Temple. After arriving at the hairpin turn, was greeted with frigid conditions. Slipped on a verglassed rock and landed on my butt while zipping up my pants...that should have been taken as an omen. The hike up the drainage to Kangaroo Pass was gorgeous!! The larches turned gold with rays of sunlight flitering through them made the hike in seem magical. It felt strange having an autumn day in Washington feel like they did when I was a kid in the Midwest; sunny, clear and crisp. On our way up to Kangaroo Pass, the thermometer on my pack never reached 40 degrees, putting doubt that we would be climbing. Call me fairweather but leading five pitches with numb fingers didn't seem enticing. When we passed a large slab completely sheeted over with ice it became even more obvious that the rack and rope weren't going to be needed. Snow flurries remained in pockets on the talus, frost covered most things and the comfort difference between being in the sun and in the shade was gigantic. To put my mind at rest, we stopped and I bouldered around in the basin, for reasons both for fun and also to see how quickly my fingers would go numb. There are some nice problems up there, the friction was incredible and the fingers lost feeling in about 10 minutes. Case settled. So my fiancee left our packs by the trail below the pass and we continued up, to get a better look. Met a hiker coming down from the pass, claiming that it was cold and real windy at the pass. She aborted plans to head up Wallaby. The wind got stiff up to the pass, blowing probably at around 25 mph gusts. Got to the pass and was rewarded with the view. There is something about passes that please me, it's like walking through a window and seeing a different, beautiful vista from the one you had heading up on the approach. We saw the Temple and Little Finger (which we planned on nabbing since we would be up there.) The route was completely covered in shade and didn't look like it would get sun for another two hours or three (and even then, the ridge going from Copper Point to Liberty Bell could be blocking it off). Unsatisfied, we started traversing over and then heading up, I wanted a better perspective point. So up we went, over blocks and slabs. Instad of using a dirt gulley with an obvious tread on it, my fiancee and I picked the most sporting route we could find, mixing small class 5 and class 4 sections in. The scenery and coarse granite reminded me of Tuolumne Meadows, albeit the granite up ther was much more weathered and grittier and sandier. The way kept leading to platforms and up we went more, now forgetting the reason we started up and just enjoying the scramble. The best parts included a 35 foot slab with no holds, a blank wall with a lie-back crack, and a dihederal section with an unattatched block leading to an airy traverse. Finally there was no more to go up and found ourselves almost even with the summit of The Temple. Hungry and cold, as the wind blew with renewed strength the higher we climbed, we headed down. It wasn't until that night flippin through the Goespel of Beckey, Volume 3 that I discovered we headed up Wallaby. Back down towards the packs, my fiancee headed over to take some shots of the iced-over slabs. I looked down and saw two rocks moving. What those aren't rocks!! Those are !!! Half running and sliding down I scared off the little snaffles before they burrowed a hole in the packs for our PBJ and !! After eating, we headed up a little to the walls just under and west of Wallaby. There are many nice cracks criss-crossing the two main walls, although the faces inbetween are blank. The wall was in the sun so the rock warmed up a bit and I found I could climb without numb digits. I led a couple of lines, including one that was desperate hand jamming for 15 feet in a sloping crack, easily 5.9+. All in all a day worth it, even though the Temple was left sanctified, not being touched by the infidels. The hike alone with the larches is worth a trip. And adding a nice scramble, some bouldering and a couple of lead climbs in BTW, saw a marten on the hike in, the airplane wreckage on the way out, and a bear on Hwy 20 at MP 149 on the drive in. Hope everybody else enjoyed the nice weather. And stefan, hope you heal quickly!!

I've never had problems with rope twisting so much with a figure 8. It's all about knowing how to feed the rope and how its packed when not in use. Haireball, it's interesting to read what you said about the figure 8 not to be used as a belay device and only for rappel. Is there any literature available about this anywhere? And I do belay with gloves in certain situations -- such as trad lead with long runouts.

Just cruising on the Cascade Crags Web site, after Scot'gucci posted the link to it on a thread. On their custom outdoor trips page, they list among the other required equipment, belay device (no figure 8s). What's up with that? Is there something that I don't know and should retire my figure 8? When I learned to climb back in the mid 80s that's all there was, unless you want a hip belay. Nowdays I use an ATC but have my Figure 8 on a gear loop as my backup. And in certain scenarios, I like my figure 8 better (cleaner rappel) than an ATC. Being a former climbing instructor, I've learned to loath gri-gris and have seen ppl pick up bad belay hbits because of them. I've used a reverso once and am still undecided about it. But c'mon people, what have you got against a climbing institution —— the Figure 8 Next think you're going to tell me is I shouldn't pack in with me the next time.