plexus

Just talked to Mark Moore of the avi center this afternoon. High avi danger that could go up to serious by Saturday. Too much dumping on a week layer. Could lead to deep slides, he sayz Play it safe and dig your own pits. Don't just settle for the forecast.

Never had any problem getting in. I always went a day or two earlier to the OFFICE on the south side of Hwy 20, told them where I was going, how long and what I was doing. At the guard station show them your permit and they check you through. I did get a key for Howard Creek Road. First time it took me almost 10 minutes to get the bloody thing open because I couldn't figure it out. For Last Sister and Step Sister, we parked next to a quarry because of the snow line and hiked up the old spur roads. Seen the most big mammals at one time there. One time up on CP land, saw three bears cross the road going in, scared away and treed a huge black bear on the hike back from Last Sister and saw three elk and six coyotes on the drive back out.

Andy,To get to the south end, drive north at the town of Hamilton, right where the bridge crosses over Hwy 20. To get into the area, you have to get a key from Crown Pacific. It is a $20 deposit fee and a waiver signed. I've gotten keys from them twice and they have been very nice and cordial. They also provided me with maps so I knew which spur roads to take. Actually ask for the maps because the roads shown in the Beckey Bible and the topos aren't always correct. Also roads get built and closed. The southern most peak is Step Sister. From there it is an easy ridge walk up Last Sister. Actually you can easily connect the first four peaks, nothing too difficult. Just thought I'd give you some more info about the south side.

What is the status on this web site. Is this going to become the AAJ of the Internet?

Johnny, Tis the same Dallas Kloke. We just had the second annual bouldering comp out there in September. There is a lot of good stuff to climb out there. I'm helping get together info for a new all-encompassing guide for the area. Has meant climbing a lot of obscure walls, cleaning off moss and getting scratched to death by rose bushes. God I love it.

Jhamaker, I just went climbing with Dallas on Tuesday and talked with him last night. Send me an e-mail and I'll tell you how to get a hold of him. Ryan

It always amazes me to hear stories from years back yonder when pitons were your best form of protection and Royal Robbin shoes were the footwear of choice. Just yesterday while climbing with Dallas Kloke, he was showing me a run-out route that he led back awhile ago. One pin was what he put in. Dallas is also prboably the only person living or dead to climb Johannesburg seven times. And still at the young age of 62, that guy shows me stuff every time I go out climbing with him. The best advice I got from him was, if you live to 30, you'll be alright. A toast to the old-school

Definitely Charlie's pcik is my favorite Beckey-ism. Another good one is "It appears that the route should provide no difficulties."

Damn Matt A., Is that the opening paragraph for your thesis? Nicely put and I like how you segmented the various factions of climbing and presented each case.Obviously you went to college and didn't spend all of your time Do some mojo for a dry morning tomorrow, trying to get out and climb with a legend (and no it's not Big Lou or Beckey).

I'm just endorsing an idea John Sherman wrote about, how people get attatched to ratings. If you step back and get familiar with the climbing at an area (i.e. Squamish, Icicle, Joshua Tree), you'll find that you won't be dependent on what a guidebook tells you. I could say that Squamish is soft, Index is hard and Joshua Tree rocks, but that is where I am coming from. It is also dependent on the type of climbing I am proficient at and what types of climbs I enjoy and also where you call your local crag. I have scampered up a 5.10b like it was no big deal and have gotten the severe case of Elvis Legs on a 5.8, all at the same place. That isn't to say that the 5.10b is graded too soft or the 5.8 sandbagged, it's all what you're comfortable with and good at. If you've been climbing at say Icicle for 10 years, you could look at a wall and tell what is going to go, because you are familiar with the characteristics of the rock in the canyon. Just find a line and have fun.

Geez, What five posts in 30 minutes. Can you tell I'm procrastinating at work.

Hey, so I gotta big head. Doesn't mean I look like one of them statutes . Dru, are you a closet spandex wearer?

But dirt keeps the Lycra-cladded hoards away. Begone you foul sport climbers!!! Off to Exit 38 with you!!!

I believe the author of the Pickets book is Tabor of the US Forest Service. Very, very hard to find.

Get off the numbers kick! Just because a climb is a 5.8 doesn't mean it's going to climb like any other 5.8. Just use them as guides. Plus I have yet to ever climb at a place, and sometimes even the same wall, that the grading is consistent. It's done by people so it's never going to be the same. One of the most difficult climb I ever did was a two-pitch mossfest 5.5 at Mount Erie with sketchy pro, long runouts and thorny rosebushes. It was rated in the 70s so obviously the top-end has changed and so have the ratings. I've gone to many an undeveloped wall or gone around without a guidebook and done OK. The biggest thing I look for in beta is not nec. the difficulty but the pro placements.

So he hiked all three...that's a lot of miles. But did he actually see anything? When I'm out climbing, I don't really look at the scenery as much when doing the approach. But when I'm out hiking for hiking, check out your surroundings. I just know from doing a 20-mile day, I didn't notice if I was on Mars or in Utah towards the end of it. My mantra with each step was beer, food, beer, food, beer, food.

Don't get me started about WWU (worthless Washington University)..... On the bright side, the bear is excellent at Boundary Bay

When you guys taking this act on the road? Need an agent?

Hey Jay, Going to be out in Denver for two weeks around New Year's. Will it still be able to get some bouldering done at Phoenix Mtn near Boulder or will it be drapped with snow?

Sitting in the sun, working on my spanish and helping the significant other do her field work in Oaxaca, Mexico for four months this winter.

I said I'd never buy an ice ax....And I did.I said I'd never cross a glacier....And I did.I said I'd never get engaged....And I did.See a pattern here? Terminal, 20 lead falls?! Damn, you've earned your name haven't you. Qwestion, can you call it a lead fall if your hold snaps off before you can clip into the piece you've placed? Or does taht go in the asterisk category?

No...too many arguements....brain can't comprehend all....at...one...time.... Anyways, I've heard people go back and forth about using the loop or tying into both. I still do it old-fashion but have used the loop the very, very few times I climb indoors when belaying and tyingin. Is there any time frame for age of harnesses that this works for? In a clearer sense, should you use the belay loop from a harness made in, let's say, 1994, compared to one made two years ago? How about the different manufacturers? I have a clip-in sling cinch-knotted on the loop attached to a biner (for when I get to a spot and begin setting up an anchor or when setting up a rappel.

Saturday went to Mount Erie for some TR. OK climbing because battled numb fingers and toes syndrome. Rock was mostly dry but some wet spots to avoid. Saw two other parties that day, it's strange to see the Upper Wall open on a weekend. Usually avoid that like the plague and hit the other crags up there.

Freak is Nick, Freak as in sticking highball problems, looking at a ripped finger, shrugging at it, pass-me-the-beer, we ain't got time for pro, let's run it out Nick. I taught that boy what not to do. First time out with the guy, his second time climbing and he's huffing and puffing and looking ugly up a 5.10d. Now he kicks my butt. Rock on Nick

So it's the Canadian version of Lynden, huh?