plexus

I'd defin. go with 60m. I haven't yet gotten around to switching to the twin ropes method, but I think 11mm is overkill. A 10 or a 10.5 is still beefy enough to sustain abuse, provide psychological security (if it is needed) and does shave off some of that weight. Also having used a bi-pattern rope of a friend, I would def. buy one of those the next rope I purchase, is clearly worth the extra $10-20 to determine the mid-point. Some markers can damage sheaths and also in the case of my main rope, it is getting really faded and easy to pass.

Leejams, Those flashbacks last for about a week, then you'll want to head back out the next weekend. When I get hit by a slide last spring I swore I wouldn't go back into the mountains until everything melted out. Two weeks later I climbed Red Mountain and then the weekend after made a trip up Snowking, so go figure. Glad you guys came out safely. My friend had a mini-epic on that peak. The rock is total crap in places and decent at others. I've never heard anybody ever say, "Man I could sure go for some Guye rock right now. This Enchantment granite/Twin Sisters olivine is just such crap." Never understood why ppl still climb that thing, but then again, if it was in my backyard, I'd probably do the same thing. Looks like you guys had the weather with you. Our three-peak loop didn't happen today. The rain came about 8 hours too early. People in our group dropped like flies, from 10 to four, and then when we met, I decided I'd rather get back in bed and climb on my woodie and our firends decided they'd rather go ski Baker. Next weekend hopefully. Unfortunately I plunked down $9 for a Sno-Park day pass for our taking off point !!

Heading to Denver to plan our wedding for four days, introduce our moms to each other, and hoping to get a day in at the Flatirons if the weather cooperates.

Erik, What's the URL for WSDOT? Also can you look at webcams on that, particularly Washington Pass?

OK, Just got done looking at both NOAA and the Northwest Avalanche Center, and each has contrasting reports for Sunday. Then the bloody weather channel is wishy-washy and picking inbetween the two. So what I want to know, which do you guys find to be most consistent and correct with the weather? Mind you what the weather is like isn't going to stop us from heading out, there's only one 45-degree snow gully to the summit

Glad the pair of you are no worse for wear. BTW, did you guys find two female "hikers" to share a tent with before SAR found you?!

I've clipped to my shoulder strap and to the harness. Both work. Make sure you actually clip it to your shoulder strap though. I lost a locker down the chute on Shucksan a couple years ago 'cause I thought I clipped it to my shoulder strap but actually got my waist belt. It fell down the route when I took my pack off... BOOTY CALL!!!

I carry two pickets. And other than practicing glacier rescue, I've only used them twice for belays. There have been a couple of spring climbs I wished I had them on (steep sloppy snow over cliffs). Real light and have finally figured out how to store them on my pack and reach them with one hand and without having to take my pack off. Have only seen a fluke in stores....wouldn't even know what to do with one of those.

Better go very soon. After February, it's a scree hike with bullet-hard ice above. Also pack a harness and rock shoes. There's some nice sport climbing in the town of Rio Blanco a short drive away, near the city of Orizaba.

There was a thread on this peak last year. Do a search for it. It's one I want to try this spring. Plan on getting up in there and trying a line I've seen on Barbara Peak. Also, as of last week, Crown Pacific was doing some major harvesting on the Howard Creek line just over the S. Fork Nooksack. That will impede driving and add a couple of miles to approaches. Also that line has a seasonal closure on it for the Nooksack Elk Herd on it. Oh, and watch out for bear and cougar and

Dru I sense you're a little excited about heading up to Squeamish? Gonna hit the Smoke Bluffs? Also is the Malamute open still or did the railroad close it? Last year was the first time I didn't go to Squamish in a season since I moved out west. I think I would like to chew on some nice granite again.

Same here, stored in bedroom closet, modified because there wasn't enough space inbetween the shelves. Nothing some 1x2s couldn't fix. Also our crampons are right next to the pile of bathroom towels in the closet. Sleeping pads and tents are behind the overhanging part of our bouldering wall (great storage).

Yeah like HE'S afraid of a five-ton boulder!!

Granite Larabee sandstone

Triumph isn't that light-colored and sure as hell doesn't look like that. Please try again

Sned a message to Dyno Merchant for info on both areas, he put up most of the routes. I'd go to Glacier before the Bat Caves. There are two areas, and while they have their assortment of 5.11-12s, there is a nice selection of 10s that are good for what they are. The Bat Caves, the number of routes is limited and the rock isn't all that great. Have climbed there a few times and would have to say its worth maybe one or two visits up there.

Saturday: Trail running, worked. Sunday: Looked outside, organized gear closet, dinner with friends Monday: Made future plans of some 'xploring this weekend, looked outside, saw some sun, wished I didn't have to....., worked

Seems like you want the best of both worlds Michael....have patience grasshopper, the snow will stop some day and then you can dance.

From what I've experienced and what I've heard from friends from different locales (Persis, Sauk, south end of Twin Sisters, Jackman Ridge, Hadley Peak, Dickerman) is you get frozen crust below and somewhere in the low 4,000s you get unconsolidated powdery stuff. It seems like that throughout the range at least from Hwy 2 north. Might head out on Sunday to Illabot area, expecting the same thing. Not too much snow forecasted with this system coming in. Just hope it's not real wet otherwise avy conditions will get increasingly more dangerous.

Leejams, If you go up into the mountains, the glutton for punishment thing is a given !! Good luck on Whitehorse...I was looking at it last week and telling my fiancee this would be a perfect time to do it. But I ain't that crazy yet. Lambone, go live in a small village south of the border where nobody knows English, you'll learn Spanish really quick...worked for me and I couldn't finish a sentence when I got down there. Good luck with midterms...I hated college Some of us have to work two of the three days this weekend. Sunday will be for the Twin Sisters possibly if it don't rain.

Had to wait 10 minutes before I could squeal out a left turn on to Hwy 2 from Forest Road 62 because of all the traffic from Stevens Pass. The traffic actually stopped for like five minutes in Sultan !! Driving on Hwy 2 every weekend, that would a reason NOT to get a seasons pass at Stevens.

Finally got up the bloody hill. Great view across to Index. The washout is fixed, you can drive to the trailhead. Hit ice-crust crap at about 3,200 and actual sugary snow at about 4,500. Brought ax and cramps but needed nothing. Thought the first summit was the main one, started rock and tree climbing on the ridgeline until I realized I was trying to kick my left foot into blue . Gotta love cornices!! Tooled on a couple of the boulders out there...interesting rock like a mixture of sandstone and schist...there is a nice coulouir it looks like that runs up to where the W Ridge and the rocky N Ridge almost converge. Looked like 60+ most of the way.

Good job guys! Does the approach get any easier in wintertime? How much brush was covered? Can't wait to see the pictures.

Check bivouac.com and Dru's trip report on Redoubt. I saw a slideshow about a traverse through that area and it looks like the toughest part on the approach is like 600 feet of class 3-4 bushes and rock near the waterfalls below Silver Lake

American Border Peak from the NW. And that's an area that receives a fair amount of snow, and if it looks like that...the outliers are going to be looking bare.