plexus

Dude, did you see him climbing down in the Emyn Muil head down. Don't think that stoor needs any pro...Great shot though

I was just waiting for Dru to sing the praises of the tri-cam . Yes, MEC is a little bit more of a drive now, like two long days worth. Found them at Mountain Miser, and also some good access info for the South Platte. CBS, I thought about writing an ode to pinky, but yours did more justice than I could have scribed. Also my new home crag is in Golden and all basalt. I found the two tri-cams I have were the easiest to place. The cracks are smooth and slightly irregular, making slotting a nut a little more time consuming. But the cracks ate up the tri-cams like nobody's business . Also I'm going to email Camp. If there are questions about their security, then I don't think it's a wise gift for my better half. Her stocking stuffer breaking on a lead fall I think could lead to an anullment, and she's way prettier than me and I finally got her leading trad to swap some leads with me, so that ain't a good thing. It's equal training. She leads gear, I started doing the dishes.

So after going to four climbing stores, I finally was able to track down the infamous pinky, the .5 tri-cam nobody can do without. It's a stocking stuffer for my wife, ever since last spring when she finally did her first trad lead (without me no less), she has been raving about tri-cams and we need a whole rack of them and nothing else and yadda, yadda, yadda. So what's the deal with nobody carrying tri-cams any longer? REI only has the big behemoth ones (as opposed to those little behemoth ones ) and several stores didn't carry them at all. But you can find Metolious cams at your friggin neighborhood Wal-Mart.

It is a great route, takes gear well (standard rack suited us fine). Unfortunately I had the pack on the chimney pitch, which made chimneying not an option for me and my belayer seriously I think has ADHD (we had two-ways and he forgot to turn his on), so stopping and removing the pack really wasn't an option. Felt like strenuous 10 for me on that chimney section.

I second that idea about OG. Also Krack Rock is a good place to practice. Never anybody there when I go past or climb there.

Attitude and emotional states have are very intrical to physical performance. Just keep that bad mojo away and always tell yourself that you can get up that climb before you start it. My favorite moment climbing was a few years back leading a run-out 10c. It was the most fluid I had ever been climbing because I visualized the climb as a boulder problem between each bolt, and I KNEW I could boulder 10c. Speaking of which, I'm heading down to the climbing gym to get an arm pump. (no pun intended )

No Sharkey?!! It's all because they had to find time to make Arwen a bigger part!!!

Probably was a little over three years ago. A friend I had helped teach how to climb turned into one of the best climbers I'd known. She was also easy to spot and belay while she was working a route because she was 5-feet-nothing and 90-sumthing pounds. One day after she had turned good, went out cragging with her, taught her trad, top-roped my first 11 and then led a couple of mixed 10c's that day. Still trying to get back to that level. Been climbing mountains and not really pushing the technical grade that much. But starting back down that road now that I'm in Colorado and there ain't no glaciers

Will prbly head down that way in Jan. Moved to Denver and the wife wants to check out the Ouray ice climbing fest.

I heard rumours of this back in May talking with the IO of the park. NCNP is fairly progressive compared to some other NPs, look at the work they are doing with alpine lake fishing. They could just take the findings, say stocking high lakes has a negative impact and close it. Instead they have had five public scoping meetings and are taking another year to come up with a compromise, something they didn't have to do. Superintendent Paleck is a pretty cool guy, that's my impression with the dealings I've had with him in the past. Plus I don't think they are going to have to worry about droves of people flocking there. There just ain't no room!!

Well I just ordered that Alta watch you were giving props to Alex. Got tired of trying to make out anything behind the huge cloud of fog stuck in my old dial altimeter.

Where's Fishtail at? Karakorum? Height? Do they provide porters or do you have to rent your own ?

Wow, I see my campsite from this summer. Sniff! I loved that trip, what a beautiful area. How often do you look down on a helicopter picking up water from Found Lake?

The market fluxuates all the time. When I was there two years ago, it was 9.3 pescos to the $1US. Now it's been hovering between 11-10.5 pescos to a $1US. Also by Saltillo, there are some great cliffs to be scaled. Trad climbing there. Chico is a lot of bolts.

Talked with my old co-worker last night and he informed me of Garrett's unfortunate fate. I've interviewed him in the past and he was a good kid. What a bizzare way to go.

I feel more comfortable on gear but climb better on bolted routes. It might be that I'm not carrying as much weight on bolted leads. (I know I need to get my weak ass to the gym). Also I'm discovering a lot of moderate bolted lines have first clips pretty high off the deck (20-30 feet above broken boulders). Once you get the experience and know when your trad pieces are bomber, that fear of falling on them disappears somewhat.

Good show!! I was given explicit directions of which gully to take and had it pounded into my head, use the right one (pun indeed). Tis a pretty climb and keeps you on edge most of the time.

Fairweather, do the col, it is much, much faster. Do the Silver Star Creek, (some brush) if doing it as a two-day event. But just do it in one day. You'll be tired at the end but that makes the beer taste better when you get back to the car

Tis the only way to do it, unless you want to get some turns in on your trip, then do it as a two-day and carry in the plankers

Good job kid!! No don't go gettin drunk and fall down the stairs!!

"Freedom Free" Did that used to be known as "French Free"?!

It's along slog....do the boulder instead, it's a nicer route

you mean like when you are leading Air Guitar at Vantage huh Can't believe you went there Drude...Damn that's taking a man's woman....and his beer

You guys are all forgetting Graybeard and Colonial. I'll go with Goode and Triumph as well, and the scariest one of all Willis Wall

Up to Ruth is a piece of cake, you should be able to drive all the way up to the trailhead by that point. IMHO, I think that will be a good time to attempt that with some snow coverage, it should make it easier with the rock and crevasses. I started the traverse a couple of years ago and turned back due to not giving myself enough time. It's fairly straight forward from your vantage on Ruth. I read that you skirt around the summit on Ruth, but I went straight from the summit down to the ridge.