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Everything posted by plexus
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Sorry for your loss. I've parked at the bottom (and the top, and the middle) numerous times without problems, including leaving my rack in full sight on the passenger side of my truck last Sunday. I've never heard of cars getting broken into down there. I hope karma returns to you.
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Looked like wonderful conditions to work on your "project"
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BD #.5, #2...Rock Empire yellow...Wild Country #4...My cams range from Forged Friends to Aliens to DMM to Trango...my rule though is use passive pro unless I'm sketched or a cam is just a better placement. There is nothing more reassuring than a solidly placed #9 stopper. Tri-cam lovers, I have a #2 and after learning how to place it, I do love it. I want to get one more, which size do you use the most?
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Ahh.... I hear a few mountains calling my name BTW, has anybody done Frisco snowcovered? Did it this summer, but that ridge looks like it could be fun snow-covered...better than the loose as rock on the satelite peak to the west....
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Catbirdseat, Hope you went to the Brown Lantern...Hale's Cream Ale on tap Next time you do ZigZag, try a couple of routes just by the snag. Right above the snag is a mixed 5.9 with bolts to a crack. To the right of the pedestal there is a bolted 5.8, ends at anchors about 20 feet below a red piece of sling and a 5.12. Was thinking about heading over to Erie on Tuesday but it looks like the weather is going to poop out
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This winter it has been a traverse of Welker-Widget-Wobegon. Twice made plans to climb them, twice met with friends to go climb them, and each time the weather and visibility has been such crap that the day resulted in indoor climbing. But this is Washington, I've come to accept that the weather more times than not will stymie my plans. I just hate it when it rubs it in my face by having gorgeous weather on the days I have to work.
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My fiancee is a TA this quarter, 8 a.m. class, plus she works 30hrs a week, finishing writing her thesis and taking a mountaineering class. The last time I saw her was Wednesday. I think I might see her again in June . At least we were able to get out climbing together last Sunday that
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For alpine, 4-6 regular, 4-6 double doubled up, and four double around my shoulders, also will carry a cordelette on multi-pitches. In the alpine, I don't climb near my high-end but a few grades lower. I use, I dunno, maybe 10-12 pieces per rope length. Just an estimate.
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You gots to get yours...no shame in that
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I once almost got into a fight with a Mountie instructor because I was climbing on the only route they didn't have their multitude of ropes hanging down from on "their crag", The guy yelled at us that they had "reserved" the mountain that day (which I knew to be total BS because it's a public place and the managing agency doesn't give out reservations). So I freed up a Class 4 route next to one of their ropes and he went ballistic. I used the utmost restraint not to toss him off the cliff, instead I , threatened him, walked down, and then led the beforementioned climb. Not to turn this into a Mountie bashing thread (it's just too easy to do), but I have had good experiences with the Mounties, but I'd say the ratio is 2:1 between pleasant exchanges (yeah, you guys can climb there) and unpleasant ones (morons rappelling the route I'm leading even though they see me leading and kicking off rocks onto my helmeted melon). As for the orginal topic, you were in the right, and I think just heading up the climb was the best option to do given that encounter. As for the "why would you want to climb a .7?" Sometimes it's nice to have a fun, non-threatening climb. And some of us are gapers.
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Nice job, I like them climbs dirty and mossy. I expect the lactic acid fairy to visit me tomorrow. We went up to Erie, got some leads in at Snag Buttress, hiked out as the rain started, great timing Wimped out on leading a very exposed climb, but it's early, I can still tuck my tail Used a friend's rack, had me searching for pieces since the pieces weren't where I keep them (now where's that #7 stopper? #1 Camalot?! I don't want the #1 Camalot!) Fell about five feet as my directional piece popped while lowering. Unconsciously screamed as I thought the chains snapped (I have put on some weight lately) Good time considering it's been a while. Cheers to everyone that got out this weekend!!
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South side of Erie is covered with them in the springtime. It's an annual ritual of checking the partner and picking the ticks off of her, and vice versa. No big deal, you have better chance of dying in a car crash than Lyme disease in Washington. Check it out, the data is about two years old but still relevent. http://www.skagitvalleyherald.com/articles/2001/07/05/news23505.txt
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Friends arrived late from Issaquah and we were all lethargic and not to keen on heading into the mountains, where the sky was very black. So we skipped out on the 'W trifecta'. Instead bouldered inside, went for a hike at Squires Lake and bouldered over there on some sandstone. Now emailing my groomsmen to get measurements for their tuxes, picking out an island in the south pacific for honeymoon (nice room for a week of snooking, and then diving and boulders )
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Tomcat, How was Primus Peak? What route did you guys do? Something that has caught my eye. PM me a TR if you have time.
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Iain, Who are you taking the course from? It's odd because I'm interviewing a guy Friday in Anacortes about orienteering for an article. Saturday — working Sunday— either a try on the 'W' trifecta or indoor climbing at Cascade Crags
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An orginal article ran in the Spokane paper a few weeks ago that was a better read. I say it when it came over the AP wire and still have it in a folder at work.
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Do the traverse from Green Mountain and hit Misch, Buckindy Mutchler and Snowking. From Snowking to Mutchler, it;s not bad of a traverse. From friends that have done it, they say its a great trip with good weather. An area that doesn't get much visitors, the rock on Chaval is pretty solid.
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"necesitas una cabeza que no tiene rocas dento" but it would be even better to say something like "necesitas no ser tan gilipollas" (such a stupid jerk) o necesitas no ser un pinche gavacho! I miss the keyboards in Mexico with the upside down question marks and exclaimation marks. It's in the 90s and sunny in Oaxaca. Why did I ever come back?!
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"You've got to fuck a great many women beautiful women and write a few decent love poems. and don't worry about age and/or freshly-arrived talent. just drink more beer more and more beer" You gotta love Bukowski. I just picked up "Love is a Dog from Hell" the other week. and is the pursuit of happiness.
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OK here it is as promised the exciting Sunday TR. Names of gumbies have been omitted to protect the innocent and ultra-gumby. Eds Note: Please note the precise AP writing style, my editor would be so pleased. Jim Cour eat your heart out. SEDRO-WOOLLEY — A number of gapers spent the day inside pulling on plastic on Sunday, under the shinning canopy of an off-white, dry-walled ceiling. The day had a slow start as much spray was spewed about which state had better climbing, Utah or Washington. However, after the rock wall was introduced to the St. George-native bolt clipper, the stretching commenced and the slippers were donned. "Now the route is to use every hold marked with an 'S' and follow it in sequence, down to the other side, and then reverse it," said Plexus, the resident gumby. "You can use anything for your feet." After all three members completed the three established routes on the crag dubbed, "The Bouldering Wall in my Bedroom", the beers were cracked open and the serious burn was to begin. A minor mishap occured at the area said Plexus. "Our Utahn guest tried showing off her big-wall skills, opening up a beer with using a Black Diamond carabiner," he said. "The carabiner got stuck and the bottle necked needed to be broken. She said that only Black Diamond biners would work. If I didn't know she was the cop & courts reporter at my work, I would have sworn she was a gear rep. "Everybody came out alright, except for the beer which was given a ceremonious flushing down the kitchen sink." After several hours of burn, the group retreated to turkey melts, potato salad and Monty Python's "The Meaning of Life". "We'll be back to find some more lines on this crag," Plexus said. "There is plenty of potential and the access is wonderful. we just have to stumble out of bed."
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Dru, I will beat your dumbass TR with my own tomorrow about hiking in the rain, climbing on my bouldering wall and eating Cheesy Puffs!! Then I will a six-pack of Skagit Brown. Sorry about the bumper. Bummer eh?
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I like the persepective of your point there Chuck.
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What's the snow been like down there? Also what is the name of the small family chain of restaurants...something to do with bears...great, great food down there in Shasta and Redding.
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Even our photogs have been shooting digital for about two years now, and we're only about a 21,000-circulation paper. It's wonderful because our photogs can be out in the field longer doing assignments. All the need is their camera, the chip reader and an Apple laptop with Photoshop, and they never have to get back to the office, which is best for us reporters...because reporters and journalists for some reason speak a different language...we both , and we both , and we both enjoy a good everynow and then, but it's just a different language.
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I hope everybody stationed over there gets back safely, and regardless of the politics behind all of this, everybdoy should be doing the same. My co-worker just had her first baby on Monday, and her husband is deployed someplace over there and couldn't be there for the birth. At least he was able to her his son's first scream over the phone. I have a couple of friends on the verge of being sent out from Whidbey and a couple of more friends that are reservists that could see action. I have freinds and family that were in the Gulf War and 'Nam, and I am grateful I was able to hear about WWII from my grandfather and great uncle before they passed away...talk about some scary stuff that happened on then!! It sucks that the fate of so many people, on all sides of the conflict, are going to die, just because of a few people, on all sides, are saying so. Everybody get back safe and pray to whatever deity you do that this will all get resolved without blood spilling.
