slaphappy

Peter, don't be jealous, our trips are special too?

Bobby- seriously I understand your appreciation for coffee box girls, I mean, I like them as well (particularly the "1/2 my age" variety) and had a great summer "exploring" various outdoor hot spots. My problem here is what about our fantastic sessions of pure man love? Do they not mean anything to you? The star filled bivies, the constant flirting, the inadvertant "bumps" at tight belays, the man musk... you remember the trip to The Great Polish Towers, don't you? Call me jealous but it only seems appropriate to mention at least one of these fantastic get togethers. You know what my other special "climbing" partner says, "it's not gay if you're only experimenting"... and it seems there's a little experimentation in all of us! I'm looking forward to our next overnighter, -slap

I got a new 50m 10.5 I would trade for a sixer of PBR tallboys...

...an outstanding choice! Although I find they work well together... gyselinck- you are correct, I do not post pics and it is very top secret info we are discussing, although I truly don't know how to post them. I tried once after someone "explained" it to me, to no avail. Bobby- tighten up, k?

I checked, no good pics of the chimney, and I have no idea how to post pics.

Pretty sure that major arching chimney (5.10) was climbed by Dan Cauthorn and partner, Plumb Bob did a corner left of it. Either way, it does look cool... bring a brush.

...my plan exactly... Nice trip, great area!

Nice work Jake!

I also have an 85, a 68 Big Gun and the Tex Davenport sig model, best boards out there by far. Now if I can just get them to make me a split with inside edges outta a 68 Big Gun I would truly be in bliss. Lance, if you got connections hook me up!!! I'll take you out to the best stashes on my RMK900 when you're up here

My mistake, I was wrong, it all fuckin sucks...

JosepH For a guy who claims to only climb for himself you sure have spent an awful lot of time this week telling us what you have and have not done.

Tim ...are you sure you don't mean Piton Tower? BP ...no worries, I'm doin the team proud. Job??? What you talkin 'bout Willis? This weekend?

Since you asked... Mostly I don't give a shit. Secondly I haven't done the route so my opinion doesn't hold much weight. Knowing some history of the area, I would'nt guess that Peter Croft equipped the route and most likely scooped the first free ascent because the bolter failed or simply hadn't completed it. It would be interesting to know if there was any "Tom Foolery" involved such as a long fixed sling that has been removed or if a hold did in fact come off, if not, I guess I would say leave it as is, or at most replace the old hardware in it's original location. I guess I don't really understand why someone would bother if they have already TR'd it, there is a million new routes to be done in the area, if that one isn't to their liking put up a new one in whatever style they want. but mostly I just don't care...

Agreed. They are totally unnecessary and at most should be removed, certainly not replaced.

This statement always annoys the shit outta me. How do you "grid bolt" a single route? I understand how a route can be overbolted or how an entire face can be "grid bolted" but not a single "grid bolted" route. I guess I can use my imagination but I haven't ever seen one, have you? Pope, I don't need to see one of your assanine cut and paste collages, TIA.

The real start of the route is 25ft. to the belayers right up good cracks, it's far better than the half bolted thingy to the left.

Ben A mixed bag, some have small crags or immediate access to the higher bigger stuff we love so much, others have squat. Besides I fail to see the relevance of crag vs. noncrag property being salvaged/saved/or spared. Oh wait, cause it effects you...

You guys are friggin clowns. Would "spared" be more appropriate than "saved"? I would love it if the road was never built, wouldn't change a thing for me, a few extra miles of scenic flat hiking, no big deal, but the lines have been set we have to deal with it and this is a step in the right direction, just as MisterMo pointed out about the Sam Hill project. Comparing the impact of a few dozen private residences (and the number currently being built west of snow creek is what maybe 2-3), to that of the construction of that tunnel is weak, there really isn't one. The 94' fire did suck, so did the lightening caused ones in 2000 and 2002. You guys need to stop livin in the past (that some of you weren't even around for) and face the here and now. There is plenty of undeveloped parcels up the canyon, some for sale right now, instead of whinning about how things should/used to be, motivate and set somethin up like the WCC did with Sam Hill. Too damn easy to just sit back isn't it? Bah, whatever, I just think it's weak to consistantly be so friggin glum about everything.

Good route! better than it's neighbor Serpentine in my opinion, but I would recommend the Kearney start to Boxcar ledge instead of Beckey's standard description. More climbing on better stone make it the preferred start.

Thank you. I'm happy the physics project has been aborted, but your paragraph nicely summarizes how I feel. Man has certainly changed the Canyon in the last 20 years. Climbers included. I don't fully disagree with some of what you say but how about setting the negativity aside once and celebrate this small victory, I mean at the very least what you despise so greatly (developement) has been reduced. Is this not a step in the right direction? or have you simply given up? Little bitty hole? You know damn well the impact woulda been far greater than that, further road "improvements", loss of roadside parking, further land closures, large trucks every few minutes, water use issues, noise/light pollution, the list could easily go on... Perhaps we should gate the canyon at the sleeping bitch and only let people with your "supreme ethical standards" pass through.

...absolutely amazing news!!!!!!

Not likely to go anywhere real quick, that crag isn't visited all that often. If you're over there again soon it would be worth your while to run up and check. Did you do Dirty Deeds? How was it? I always thought there would be a good free route just to the right up some features and a dirty crack that I'm sure would clean up to be pretty good. Hope you get your shit back.

It was a bit "chewey" but other than that no probs. I have been drinking out of lakes, streams, and sess pools in that area for 12+ yrs, never have caught anything. * found out about that plane wreck if you're curious.

Bah, those ladies hike way to damn fast to be noticin any flowers... now drunk fat old farts like me, well...

Jeebus, chill out. Let's not forget that those "once clean cracks" were once lines of moss, dirt and shrubs. Hard labor made them the clean classics they are today. It will grow back, and astonishingly fast. Perhaps this individuals timing was bad for you but don't completely stifle someones rewardless efforts. What does the temps of a summer day have to do with cleaning dirt?