slaphappy
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Everything posted by slaphappy
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Mntnnut: quote: Lots of snowboarders using splitboards in the Wasatch. You need it if you want to cover much ground for the approach. vroom! vroom!
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Hmmm, I might be able to help you CB. While rapping down a route in Leavenworth my climbing partner nudged a block the size of a big fridge. Surprisingly, it moved a few inches. After makin damn sure no one was around he proped his feet up on it and gave it a shove. It slid down a short slab, went airborne, then crashed on to a slab below. Instead of breaking up it bounced, hit the hillside below pulverizing a small vine maple and creating a crater where it used to be. After tumbling a few hundred feet downhill, still gaining momentum, it hit a 12" dia. (aprox.) Ponderosa. The tree appeared to explode. The block, still in it's original form, continued it's path of destruction down the hillside occasionally visible bouncing through the dense undergrowth and finally coming to rest in a large scree/boulder field. After rapping to the ground I went down to see what was left of the tree. The block had crushed the trunk but instead of cutting it, the tree was actually up-rooted. What a terrifying display of power! What about trees that come spontaneously crashing down cliffs, nearly wiping out two climbers? That's gotta be worth somethin! Surely you have seen a few CB. Let's hear it.
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I know that some of us have discussed this before yet I can not resist plugging snowshoes as a far better option for backcountry riding than a split board. genespires says: quote: Some things that suck: -following a ski track is not easy as your track is way larger than the skiers. Like breaking trail all the time, unless there is a fellow splitter in your group. -traversing tracks is hard -time it takes to convert between uphill and downhill modes. Makes rolling ridges and the like very annoying. Flats between steeps too. things that rock: -going downhill!!!!!!!!!!(makes it all worhtwhile) So what I see is that basically splitboards suck. If the ride is the only good thing, does it not make more sense to use a one piece deck that performs far better in adverse conditions? A board with a cut down the center of it will always be a compromise torsionally. genespires also says: quote: All in all, times are very fun. But you have to think a little more about where you can go, topography-wise. Need to avoid rolling terrain, avoid traverses and find consistent slopes to ride down. Iain makes a number of good points as well. In a nutshell, snowboards split or not aren't ideal for backcountry "tours". They are, however, tuff to beat if you choose the right objective. Steep runs with minimal flat areas are obviously the best. From my experience while riding with friends who own splitboards rarely (never that I can recollect) is it significantly faster for them to try and switchback up any steep hillside than it is for me to snowshoe straight up, particularly when there is a crust or windpack. The split board in ski mode simply can't traverse the slope, be it the lack of support from the soft boots or the wide skis. They end up taking them off and post-holeing. Although I would never say snowshoes are as fast as a proficient free heel skier, it is possible to ride together effectively given the right conditions.(them breaking trail ) If you're a boarder looking to limit your runs to the Muir Snowfield (or the like), by all means a splitboard is the way to go. However if your looking to explore some of our steeper terrain save the $1000 and by a pair of snowshoes. Yes, snowshoeing is gruelling and damn near impossible at times but it keeps you in outstanding shape for those long alpine approaches next summer. Just my opinion.
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PLEASE, leave dogs at home while cragging some of us do not appreciate their presence. I don't want help eating my lunch (or an audience), don't like being greeted, sniffed, barked at, begged from, HATE them under my feet on approaches, HATE changing plans cause "my dog can't go there" , and hate dog shit on the trail. MOST owners suck as well, your dog and their "tricks" may be cute to you but not to everyone. Crackbolter said it best- "NO DOGS!!!" * I am not a full-on dog hater, just hate them when I'm out climbing! Oops forgot one- I don't need help "cleaning" my scraped up legs or hands! [ 11-17-2002, 12:36 PM: Message edited by: slaphappy ]
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Scary Canary aint so bad either... oh yeah, it's a mere 5.8
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Celestial Groove- Pearly Gates- Leavenworth 90ish feet of crack climbing perfection
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quote: outclass and outandout outdo you Yipes!
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5.10 dirt not part of your agenda? Rarely is it a part of mine although I sure find myself there an awful lot! Here's to dirt!
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Can't say I have been up it yet. Just gauked at it on my way out after doin the N. Face of The Mole. I'll go back.
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Outstanding! It's an impressive hunk of stone in a great setting. I'm glad it's protected by the "easy" approaches. [ 10-10-2002, 08:24 AM: Message edited by: slaphappy ]
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No, you are right, it's messed up. But compared to Rat it is a highway. Did you do Toketie Wall or Buttress?
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quote: But if you are aiming for some of the other crags up there head up Snow Creek-Nada Creek to Temple Canyon. I haven't been up Rat Creek. But that's another option. Yeh everyone should start heading up Rat Creek. I went up it once and I must say it is barely an option. Toketie is a highway by comparison.
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quote: Didn't someone mention that The Fisher Chimneys route has an arrow painted to mark the correct gully? You are correct. As of mid August there was an arrow pointing up the correct gully. Pretty disgusting. What happened to adventure?
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No DFA it is HEPPED ! (and how does salbrecher know so much?) Actually though, all are true!!! Drink one just cuz!
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And a well deserved two for you too, Norman C!
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13 pitches? I remember 7 maybe 8. Other than the first pitch, (5.8) the route is soft for the grade. It was fun and for the most part on good stone. Congrats! *Oh, and Alan's route beta is right on. [ 09-23-2002, 05:08 PM: Message edited by: slaphappy ]
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Right on Blight! Here's to you! Here have another ! [ 09-23-2002, 05:07 PM: Message edited by: slaphappy ]
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first ascent First Ascent-"Back of Beyond Buttress"
slaphappy replied to layton's topic in British Columbia/Canada
quote: Spec-freakin-tacular lump of granite! (Isn't there something like it somewhere in Renton??) One question though: It took 1/2 an hour to get off the peak, how do you know it was unclimbed? The same way he new no one could have climbed the N. Ridge of Stuart earlier this year, there were no footprints of course! -
This might help: Washington's Recreational Use Immunity statute, RCW 4.24.210, was enacted to encourage both public and private landowners to open their property to recreation by limiting the fear of landowner liability. The essential terms of the statute are this: Any public or private landowner who allows recreational use without charging a fee is not liable for an unintentional injury suffered by a user. Rock climbing is a recreational use within the scope of the statute. Therefore, as long as no fee is charged for climbing and a landowner doesn't intentionally inflict injury upon a climber, the statute exempts a landowner from liability for a climbing injury. There is one exception to the general "no liability" rule under the statute. If a recreational user is injured as the result of a "known dangerous artificial latent condition" on the property, liability can occur. In order to meet this exception, the condition creating injury must meet each and every one of the four qualifying terms: 1) it must be inherently dangerous; 2) it must be latent (something that is not readily apparent); 3) it must be artificial (something that is not natural); and 4) perhaps most importantly, it must be known to the landowner, who then fails to warn of the condition.
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I've used it on a funky pack and a coat that was left stuffed wet waaaaay too long. It worked well removing nearly all traces of the foul odor. I'm not sure who in town sells it but McNett Corp. out of B'ham. distributes it so give them a try.
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Do a search under "backcountry snowboard boots", this has been discussed at length in the past. [ 09-02-2002, 10:00 PM: Message edited by: slaphappy ]
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Cavey, you are right, you don't need 2 ropes but if you climb with doubles you might as well make it go as quickly as possible. Oh, and double 60's will put you down far enough in 3 raps. Keep your wits about you on the traverse, it has been the scene of a fatality.
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Wait a second... It's obvious to me why Yos needs a swaging tool but why are the only two people who have one, or easy access to one, women? What am I missing?
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Matt, Snow Creek Wall
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You racist pricks! How dare you start tossing around labels such as "chink". And what's so "enigmatic" about their race? Are you to afraid to accept someone that looks and possibly acts a bit different from yourselves? I find that label equally as offensive as the bullshit scott'f@#k called your (Mitch's) kid. I for one find your bolt choppin, racist asses down right offensive and can't believe that we share any interests (climbing) what-so-ever. People like you piss me off! Are you truly that ignorant?
