wayne

I am looking to build a great page on bizarre epics. Post them here or send a link, and let me know if I can put them on the page. Here is the work in progress link I have so far. link Not much yet but With help, It could get very interesting, Thanks , Wayne

There should be an alpine winter book out too, soon?

Just when I thought I couldnt bear another S.Side TR, I find here a really good one. Thanks

Ok here is what you do. Before you get up to where Dave suggests to place., tap out a small hole in good ice to help get it started. Get fast at placing them with one hand- 20 seconds should do it. Then Use bent -gate carabiners and get the rope in and keep firing till you get to that rest. the biggest risk with Aiding is your tool could pop. Tim used to loop a rope over the top of his tools to get a rest in the pump. Like rock climbing take advantage of your rests, both to rest and put in pro. Also get used to the idea of running ti out a bit. Place before a crux or bulge. Get good at it.

Fitter, Happier, More Productive..

There are many selects that may be more useful. They have more specific beta. If you just moved here there is no reason to do anything but the classics anyways. They are a bit overcrowded though.

Interesting thread and a good bump. I did a giveaway to on my site. There isnt much competition for these things and if someone else gets to it, good for them!

Bump- Not much action since this was started almost 4 Years ago!

I personally think the strong partner should lead. Faster, less pro, better route finding. He should know when the second is getting to a "spot" and pro or dig in.I like to double a skinny rope.

All you need is good weather, partner, luck, beta,plan, conditions, and gear. Thats all- Oh and this lamp shade, thats all, Oh and this thermos. that's all, thats all you need

I believe I have a link on this page that has the very trip you are interested in. It is called 'Great Trip report" and it is near the bottom of the page.Link There are 2 links to that trip at that location. IF you do a traverse, consider going in Easy pass. You could get dropped off at Hannegan. Also If you do NE Butt Fury it is simple to get to Luna-Fury Col, but the other guys in the report went down the glacier directly to Picket Pass and over to N Butt Terror. I went to their show, they were very stoked yet very tired. One would have to go super-light to pull of those 3 climbs in succession.

Marble canyon. Learn to lead if you can though

Pm Mike Layton, He posts as Layton.

Stable weather, firm snow, mosqs start going away, etc

Why does it seem like this should be buried with snow? They got 122 inches in the last 8 days!

Sorry, I dont know the west route well enough to make that call. Our route wasnt a real big deal nor an above average classic. It was more than fun though , there were a few great pitches, and any time with Mike is a good time. Mike you have anything to add?

Mmmm, Fury. My personal favorite. Anyone ever climb the ice shield route?

The Crucible is awesome. it had huge features and tunnels in it when lane and I did it.Good job guys.Did you easily figure out the approach rope?

Yes it was but it was an incredible array of icicles that looked unclimbable. Hey sorry if it seemed like I was cxhest beating. I hope you get to do the route too. Its not always in for 3 months at a time.Its not always "soloable" either. Dru I trailed the ropes tied end to end on the last pitch. As to only trail one

Had a fun time last Friday on the Sync. Didnt take a camera. The route makes a great solo. It is in great shape right now. There is an ice dam allowing for the direct approach crossing. Here is a link(My home page-solo) to the story

we had to drill a bolt on the only available ledge,it had no anchors. It was pretty clear it was an fa to me at least. There were however backoff slings below the poison pill block. Blake it is either the first or second of the dihedrals from the farthest left.

The Middle Photos were Mist falls and the always unconnected stuff to its left. Compare the 2

If this is not another troll, I would reply to her thus. What type of expeditions? A Denali trip would be a good goal to look for once you have some other trips under your belt. Find motivated partners and shoot for what you can safely pull off. LEARN as much as you can. Stay away from bad weather and avalanches I hope you are not that interested in 8000 meter peaks. The people who are recreationaly attracted to them are just plain wrong. If you are serious though, go with Euros. Find a spot online and pony up $

Hi, Thanks for you input, You can see I have taken them to task. There have been many new pages loaded since the last note. Check out the North Pickets Page! Please feel free to give more suggestions, Wayne

Yes Hes a deacon in the Mormon church Really though he has his own clinic and seems to be doing just great