wayne
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Everything posted by wayne
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It was 1974 and I was so fascinated with climbing but hadnt even met one yet. I was trucking down the trail after a family outing when my great grandmother reset the summit-age record at 90 years old. A short way down is where I ran into Jeff Thomas and Tim Miller. It was hard to talk to them because Jeff wanted to free it, but couldnt pull it clean. I must have asked them 20 questions until I knew they were annoyed with me. That same year I found a way to climb for myself and havent looked back. Except for oct-may, there is not much else to do but reminisce.
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I have seen that thing a couple of times. There is usually crappy snow and avy danger to get up there , but it is the best pure water ice route still unclimbed. It should tickle some fancies, but it is at least a WI-5.
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Pinnacles or summits? The debate widens. I havent done alot of either in the range, I know a bunch of them are hard to get to
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Ironically, Cruiser?
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Dennis Hemminger repeatedly told the story of when he was leading Dods and fell while his belayer was rolling a smoke. He didnt come out of that one real well.
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I got a bad ass cap storie
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Guess I will just keep this rolling, Jim and Ron and I were getting ready to do Flying Dutchman, when that old sound of falling rocks made us duck and cover. Not really anywhere to go we just got lucky the trundle effort did hit any of us as it came down right above us. It was mid week and off season so it was weird feeling. I thought they might do it a gain, so I suggested we move down the cliff. We went down to Free-for-some and got set up again only to have another even bigger volley head down towards us. I was so pissed I dropped every thing and ran towards the parking lot to try to find the bastards and f them up. I was salivating when I found only one other car there. It had a time card from the Camas bakery. I took note of the address, and boogied up the trail. They must have been on to us with our screaming and they split down the Beaver Pond trail with me in hot pursuit. I sent Jim up the Beacon Trail just to be sure. They must have bushwacked to the highway and ran back to their car. that cleverness saved their butts.. I still buzzed the now closed bakery looking for blood.
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After rapping the first 2 pitches of Pacific Rim. I walked up into the cave to do a king swing. I did a tame one to start It went way the hell out!Very freaky. Tim got Psyched watching me and went all the way up into the cave for a major launch. I am sure there was no way he thought he would have collided with the tree 100 feet or more out there. It was amazing watching him try to flail a different course once he realized he was going to do some branch trimming. > he came back bloody and pissed at me for laughing so hard.
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Bob and I were leaving Beacon and we went by this police shooting range a mile down the road. Bob pulled over and absolutely demanded that I throw their "Police in Training" sign in the back of his truck. Reluctantly I did and we peeled back towards Beacon. Crazy Bob was going to bolt it to the rock as we were in a bolting controversy at the time. He would have done it unless the SWAT team van pulled us over in full Rambo fashion. Oh, I got Beacon stories..
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Bob and I were scrubbing a new rout above tree ledge in the hot sun. I had left a piece of shrimp pizza out in the sun. I thought it had gone bad, so I chucked it. After we each led the route we rapped and this angry guy came up to us with a red triangle on his shoulder.
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We all have stories, but for some reason Beacon draws out some great ones. I started writing a few on another thread and I thought it should have its own thread. I will write a few more later but I would like to hear some of yours, Wayne
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We should start a Beacon stories thread. Heres another. After rapping the first 2 pitches of Pacific Rim. I walked up into the cave to do a king swing. I did a tame one to start It went way the hell out!Very freaky. Tim got Psyched watching me and went all the way up into the cave for a major launch. I am sure there was no way he thought he would have collided with the tree 100 feet or more out there. It was amazing watching him try to flail a different course once he realized he was going to do some branch trimming. > he came back bloody and pissed at me for laughing so hard. I have a few more really good ones and we realy should do this thread. It doesnt fit here
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Another story, Bob and I were leaving Beacon and we went by this police shooting range a mile down the road. Bob pulled over and absolutely demanded that I throw their "Police in Training" sign in the back of his truck. Reluctantly I did and we peeled back towards Beacon. Crazy Bob was going to bolt it to the rock as we were in a bolting controversy at the time. He would have done it unless the SWAT team van pulled us over in full Rambo fashion. Oh, I got Beacon stories..
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I have a great Beacon story. Bob and I were scrubbing a new rout above tree ledge in the hot sun. I had left a piece of shrimp pizza out in the sun. I thought it had gone bad, so I chucked it. After we each led the route we rapped and this angry guy came up to us with a red triangle on his shoulder.
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I used to work with and climb near Nathan, He was a right winger and a rival, so we didnt hang out too much. I never met Avery though
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i one of my friends is the biggest conspiracy theorist/end of the world/born again christian/endtimes/gloom and doom conspirator i know, Hmm, Who could that be? Prolly the same guy that picked that stupid nickname for me?
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Dont worry, There is is this great Movie out called Bee-Movie. It will preserve the memory of the bee forever. We will always have food, just go through the drive through!
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Josh, just fly there!
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Thanks , You brought back some great memories.
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Thanks Pinks , Just when I thought I had heard every 70s art band! That guys voice is haunting .
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Your signature is starting to fit? Hereis another whine: Climbing at a high level, it is not easy to find fitting partners. Why do you think I go solo at times? You gonna go do a big new scare route with me?
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"Mike is so pissed by "cheers" he may leave town over it." I tried to warn you guys, you had your chance to talk him out of it. Now, I am losing my best partner, a great friend and neighbor, and my doctor.
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Mike is so pissed by "cheers" he may leave town over it.