wayne

I personally think the strong partner should lead. Faster, less pro, better route finding. He should know when the second is getting to a "spot" and pro or dig in.I like to double a skinny rope.

All you need is good weather, partner, luck, beta,plan, conditions, and gear. Thats all- Oh and this lamp shade, thats all, Oh and this thermos. that's all, thats all you need

I believe I have a link on this page that has the very trip you are interested in. It is called 'Great Trip report" and it is near the bottom of the page.Link There are 2 links to that trip at that location. IF you do a traverse, consider going in Easy pass. You could get dropped off at Hannegan. Also If you do NE Butt Fury it is simple to get to Luna-Fury Col, but the other guys in the report went down the glacier directly to Picket Pass and over to N Butt Terror. I went to their show, they were very stoked yet very tired. One would have to go super-light to pull of those 3 climbs in succession.

Marble canyon. Learn to lead if you can though

Pm Mike Layton, He posts as Layton.

Stable weather, firm snow, mosqs start going away, etc

Why does it seem like this should be buried with snow? They got 122 inches in the last 8 days!

Sorry, I dont know the west route well enough to make that call. Our route wasnt a real big deal nor an above average classic. It was more than fun though , there were a few great pitches, and any time with Mike is a good time. Mike you have anything to add?

Mmmm, Fury. My personal favorite. Anyone ever climb the ice shield route?

The Crucible is awesome. it had huge features and tunnels in it when lane and I did it.Good job guys.Did you easily figure out the approach rope?

Yes it was but it was an incredible array of icicles that looked unclimbable. Hey sorry if it seemed like I was cxhest beating. I hope you get to do the route too. Its not always in for 3 months at a time.Its not always "soloable" either. Dru I trailed the ropes tied end to end on the last pitch. As to only trail one

Had a fun time last Friday on the Sync. Didnt take a camera. The route makes a great solo. It is in great shape right now. There is an ice dam allowing for the direct approach crossing. Here is a link(My home page-solo) to the story

we had to drill a bolt on the only available ledge,it had no anchors. It was pretty clear it was an fa to me at least. There were however backoff slings below the poison pill block. Blake it is either the first or second of the dihedrals from the farthest left.

The Middle Photos were Mist falls and the always unconnected stuff to its left. Compare the 2

If this is not another troll, I would reply to her thus. What type of expeditions? A Denali trip would be a good goal to look for once you have some other trips under your belt. Find motivated partners and shoot for what you can safely pull off. LEARN as much as you can. Stay away from bad weather and avalanches I hope you are not that interested in 8000 meter peaks. The people who are recreationaly attracted to them are just plain wrong. If you are serious though, go with Euros. Find a spot online and pony up $

Hi, Thanks for you input, You can see I have taken them to task. There have been many new pages loaded since the last note. Check out the North Pickets Page! Please feel free to give more suggestions, Wayne

Yes Hes a deacon in the Mormon church Really though he has his own clinic and seems to be doing just great

May not be too useful ,New solo page

Ha!I would never get off the couch

cc.com article It is a bit dated

Right after the primaries, Tvash and I went to do Infinite Bliss . It was so cold we Hiked up and did it as a WI-5 climb

what route are you lookin at?

JEEZ! My heart goes out to Nancy! Good job lady!

Tell me of this Ken.

I will bet you the Smith guide will be out within a year , Bill Nice to see your integrity in a forgetful world. I have been curious about gold myself. It could be the new real estate